Petcock moved during scrambler/mutant build and yesterday she said she needed to be switched to reserve but would only take 8L in at the servo. Is it possible that moving it down 2 inches changed the setup/flow to the fuel system to cause this? Wtf have I done?
Regulator/rectifier moved almost flush with air filter inside of the frame. I noticed it heating up on rides and have had some idling issues. I've considered this being a bad place due to the fuel tank being so close and will move it to the left of the sideways drop-turned battery. Everything else that would get airflow in the vicinity of its current location doesn't heat up so much but is it a case of needing cool flowing air and slight temp raises effect it significantly?
Other recent change is exhaust wrap added, could this effect it's low rev ability to keep turning over? Also had some new bars put on and the throttle cable is a bit stretched so that it revs or stalls on a stationary hard right.
Jump in with experiences, similar issues, and an answer if it's just something simple I've overlooked.
Also I've got these LED resistors, in pic, but see little to no difference in flash rate.
Lastly, anyone changed their R/r to a shindengen Mosfat? Seems simple enough, I just don't get whether I use the existing bulky fuse holder or if that's specific to the existing R/r. And with the three wires coming into the R/r that you can measure volts across, they don't need to be in a specific order/setup on the new one, do they?
Okay... She's not liking this.. I think it's the r/r and battery. Sputtering below 5revs and even saw, while riding, the needle drop to 0 before jumping back up to 5. Need some support brains trust.. I know we're all in different time zones but any comments to keep it going for the day would be appreciated. (Currently testing out an ice pack on the r/r 😕
Relocating the petcock shouldn't affect fuel flow, because the tank is still above the float bowls. Make sure you don't have air trapped in the fuel lines.
R/R's do get hot, but it sounds more like a wiring problem with intermittent continuity. Btw, what kind of battery did you end up using?
Exhaust wrap shouldn't make a difference. Do get longer throttle cables made up.
If you're using LED indicators, get a flasher relay for LED's, then you won't need resistors.
Sorry, no experience with Shindengen Mosfet units. I just know that a lot of junk is available from China, being marketed as Shindengen.
The three wires coming into the R/R carry three-phase AC power from the alternator and can be connected in any order.
Good luck and show some pictures.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah first thought was petcock and didn't rule it out because of what I thought was it running out of fuel and having to go reserve. But it's just been lowered an inch.. it's all below where it needs to go but maybe the gravity of that added inch messed with the flow.
Still got a standard yellow battery, nothing fancy, pretty much stock maybe. What do you mean intermittent continuity? Like, one of the wires might be exposed and touching another/earth and losing continuity?
Yeah.. throttle cables will come.. just wanted to take the plastic off but as it goes I've signed up for a lot more that I can't just leave/or may as well do now.
Yeah, well I used eBay so it's probably a cheap knock off but my thoughts are a cheap knock off could still be better considering the shendys run cooler and more efficient.
Pics and/or video coming. With credit to the inspiration and assistance given from this site. Thank you.
With intermittent continuity I meant cheap connectors or badly mated connectors not making contact all the time. "The needle drop to 0 before jumping back up to 5" is a sure sign of a cable or two not making contact.
MOSFET reg/rect is highly recommended. I put '07-08 Kawasaki ZX6R regulator rectifier units on both of my bikes, here's the writeup (couple of posts, missing pictures, but wiring info) from my thread:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71055.msg872766#msg872766
The stock reg/rect runs hot, and if you switched to LED headlight and taillight it will run even hotter. In my case, it melted the wiring and nearly caught the whole bike on fire. Airflow is not really the issue. Moving it an inch out of the airflow is not going to change it much. Stock reg/rect is under the fairing so it doesn't really have good airflow anyway. Plus, it makes plenty of heat to melt down when the bike is sitting idling with no airflow at all. The MOSFET ones on my bikes run cool to the touch. I even put the one on the Triumph under the tank.
Quote from: mr72 on February 10, 2022, 06:23:15 AM
MOSFET reg/rect is highly recommended. I put '07-08 Kawasaki ZX6R regulator rectifier units on both of my bikes, here's the writeup (couple of posts, missing pictures, but wiring info) from my thread:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71055.msg872766#msg872766
The stock reg/rect runs hot, and if you switched to LED headlight and taillight it will run even hotter. In my case, it melted the wiring and nearly caught the whole bike on fire. Airflow is not really the issue. Moving it an inch out of the airflow is not going to change it much. Stock reg/rect is under the fairing so it doesn't really have good airflow anyway. Plus, it makes plenty of heat to melt down when the bike is sitting idling with no airflow at all. The MOSFET ones on my bikes run cool to the touch. I even put the one on the Triumph under the tank.
Boy am I glad I stumbled across this, I'm in the process of turning my '06 500F into a cafe racer, and it'll end up with full LED lighting by the time I'm done, so the stock R/R probably wouldn't have been long for this world
I've had LED lighting all round for a number of years and the stock R/R is still working fine. Jut thought I'd mention it. 2004 GS500F.
Here's my write up for the gorgeously clean install of the same r/r on my Triumph:
https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/zx-6r-regulator-rectifier-install.973433/
A month after I did that install, I wrecked that same bike. Reg/rect and bracket came through unscathed. This clean mod was among the reasons I chose to rebuild the wrecked Bonnie rather than replace it.
I probably have 5K on each bike since the reg/rect install, maybe more on the Triumph. Working 100% perfectly. For $20 it's a no-brainer imho.
Quote from: SK Racing on February 13, 2022, 11:16:22 PM
I've had LED lighting all round for a number of years and the stock R/R is still working fine. Jut thought I'd mention it. 2004 GS500F.
There are a ton of them kicking around that are working fine. I think corrosion in the wiring and/or connectors adds greatly to the potential of overheating, along with component tolerances and etc. I was forced to replace mine but I discovered lots of corroded and bad wiring that I also fixed while I was at it.
Hey thanks for all the replies. Verdict from my situation is the new mosfet connected runs cool to the touch, voltage on the battery is 14ish V.
So less power being drawn means the stock RR will run hot.. why?
Maybe I had a loose connection, but riding with an ice pack strapped to the stock RR was fixing all the problems I was having.. when a RR runs hot, something is unstable what?? This is/was the problem I'm sure of it. I also replaced the taillight before the problem so it makes sense that it was less power..
AFAIK the stock RR uses a linear regulator which dissipates excess voltage as heat. A Mosfet operates more gracefully (less heat).
Well, current, not voltage, but yeah. Shunt regulator dumps unused current as heat. It has to go somewhere. LEss current into the headlight means more into the heat sink.
I assumed that the stock RR uses a linear voltage regulator. But if a shunt regulator is used, then yes, it dumps current.
Nitpicking really, because both types shed heat.
Quote from: mr72 on February 10, 2022, 06:23:15 AM
The stock reg/rect runs hot, and if you switched to LED headlight and taillight it will run even hotter.
Thats a bold statement considering there is no mention of the amount of current they will draw or power they will consume :dunno_black:
Not really. He'd know the stock and that that type of bulb produces light through the conversion of current to heat and that the replacement being LED is more efficient, up to 90% more efficient.
From the posts of yours that I see you still look very knowledgeable even if a bit unceremonious.. 🤙... I appreciate your comments and guidance when my bike, inevitably with the way I ride, needs a doctor.
Thanks again to all.