This is The Goose. Affectionately named by my buddy who bought here new in 1998 as a leftover and performed all of the mods seen here.
She's been sitting for 5 years and he just gifted her to me!
Unfortunately, it wasn't stored with the intentions of sitting so long. The front brake is inoperable; it feels like the fluid has dried out. There's fuel in the tank, but the tank was lined when it was painted. Hopefully, that's a quick flush/rinse.
The carbs and petcock show signs of leakage, BUT ... the carbs are from a 2006 model and have been jetted for the K&N lunchbox filter that is already installed.
The front forks were rebuilt shortly before storage and include new seals and Progressive springs. Bonus! I just ordered a Yamaha R6 rear shock. Tires were newish when parked, and it's been stored inside. So, a few years old but like new with no cracks.
He installed the turn signals and tail light. The seat has been recovered.
Here's my plan so far:
- Clean tank
- Clean carbs and K&N filter
- Change oil and filter
- Adjust the valves (he said they've never been done, but the 9300 miles are original)
- Replace grips and possibly mirrors, since one is busted
- Service chain
- Install R6 shock
- What does the petcock need, by the look of the pics?
- Battery
- Find the missing Hi-Beam bezel and replace the rubber around the gauges
- Maybe some LED dash bulbs
That's about all I can think of. Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Gonna have to resize some images, but I'll add more soon.
More.
And more.
The tank cleaned up pretty nice. I had to lube up the gas cap latch because the key wanted to get stuck!
Carbs were surprisingly clean. These are 2006 carbs and were supposedly rejetted for the K&N lunchbox (which I cleaned and will re-oil). Here's what was inside:
Pilot: 20
Mid main: 60
Main 142.5
Mixture screws: 2.5 turns
I haven't checked to see if there are any washers under the needles yet.
I also got the front master cylinder working. The caliper needs rebuilt, and I'll replace the hose.
Both petcocks were shot. It's cheaper to replace the main petcock, but I ordered a kit for the secondary and drilled out the restrictor holes.
Now, I wait on parts.
R6 shock installed. It took me longer to get the old nuts/bolts loose than it did to install the new shock!
The P.O. had the front forks rebuilt with new seals, oil and Progressive springs shortly before it was parked.
No pictures, but I also got the front caliper rebuilt.
sweeeet, really enjoying this thread
Suggestion, check the old brake pads but if rebuilt the caliper I am sure you did that. Check the fork dust seals boots for cracking.
Scotchbrite on the pins is crucial to reduce brake pads chattering, also check both pistons are moving, sometimes one is stuck and it drags on one side, clean the pistons walls that slide with the oring.as suggstion goes,
greae or replace the 3 bearing piece that connect r6 shock to frame and swingarm.
Suggestions
-if you happen to open at any time the stator/magneto cover check the magnets, in some cases the resin gluing the magnets starts crackking. starwalts syndrome
consider that at some time the pickups will fail, its anotherr failure point, goats syndrome
-the clutch actuator and push rod need grease, inside, and this piece has to be in good shape to make the correct 3 point adjustment.i have a post about it
-petcock also fail with age(vaccum operated ON position)
-stem adjust and inspect, bearings (32005 and 32006 , some are have a plastic piece holding the cylinders instead of metal.
-if you feel fancy to replace all bearing you have swingarms to frame, you can grease them.
-check wheel bearings,grease
-cam chain tensioner, beware, for me it work ok, some replace it with fixed,not automatic(spring loaded), many other model fit,cbx250 and others of bigger bikes
-yamaha raptor 350 and other yamaha use the same carb, bowl gaskets are cheaper for these brands and original parts and more available and usually cheaper
-beware of hand control switches cable routing, the forks can pinch them
-wiring loom can fall of the frame hangers, check
-clean clutch and brake switchs on the levers, isopropyl or contact cleaner works (syringe or spray)in the tiny gap , click them while wet 100+ times
-grease tacho and speedo gear , ends of the cable.
-tighten electrical connections, clean connectors
-lube tank lock
-replace oring of the dipstick
-replace oring in carb boots
-beware tank petcoks flat head screwdriver is perfectly straight(a bit off and resticts fuel passage) and clean gas screen petcock.
Just getting back around to this one. It's been hotter than satan's taint down here in South Carolina and I just couldn't bring myself to go out in the garage and work on it.
It's starting to cool down now, so I plan on getting some fresh non-ethanol gas and firing her up soon ...maybe later this week!
Armandorf, thanks for the list. I've already done most of those, if they needed attention.
Can you clarify this one? "-cam chain tensioner, beware, for me it work ok, some replace it with fixed, many other model fit,cbx250 and others of bigger bikes
yamaha raptor 350 and other yamaha use the same carb, bowl gaskets are cheaper and more available "
It looks like you're talking about two different things... carb bowl gaskets and chain tensioner?
I lubed the tank lock with some 3 in 1 oil and that helped. I'd like to take it apart and grease it, as mentioned here and in the wiki, but all the links are dead. I'd love to see what all is involved in that.
Quote from: Papa Mann on July 12, 2024, 01:47:26 PMSuggestion, check the old brake pads but if rebuilt the caliper I am sure you did that. Check the fork dust seals boots for cracking.
Brake pads are good. Forks were rebuilt with Progressive springs, fresh oil, etc., right before he parked it.
Quote from: Armandorf on July 12, 2024, 04:25:42 PMScotchbrite on the pins is crucial to reduce brake pads chattering, also check both pistons are moving, sometimes one is stuck and it drags on one side, clean the pistons walls that slide with the oring.as suggstion goes,
greae or replace the 3 bearing piece that connect r6 shock to frame and swingarm.
Suggestions
-if you happen to open at any time the stator/magneto cover check the magnets, in some cases the resin gluing the magnets starts crackking. starwalts syndrome
consider that at some time the pickups will fail, its anotherr failure point, goats syndrome
-the clutch actuator and push rod need grease, inside, and this piece has to be in good shape to make the correct 3 point adjustment.i have a post about it
-petcock also fail with age(vaccum operated ON position)
-stem adjust and inspect, bearings (32005 and 32006 , some are have a plastic piece holding the cylinders instead of metal.
-if you feel fancy to replace all bearing you have swingarms to frame, you can grease them.
-check wheel bearings,grease
-cam chain tensioner, beware, for me it work ok, some replace it with fixed,not automatic(spring loaded), many other model fit,cbx250 and others of bigger bikes
-yamaha raptor 350 and other yamaha use the same carb, bowl gaskets are cheaper for these brands and original parts and more available and usually cheaper
-beware of hand control switches cable routing, the forks can pinch them
-wiring loom can fall of the frame hangers, check
-clean clutch and brake switchs on the levers, isopropyl or contact cleaner works (syringe or spray)in the tiny gap , click them while wet 100+ times
-grease tacho and speedo gear , ends of the cable.
-tighten electrical connections, clean connectors
-lube tank lock
-replace oring of the dipstick
-replace oring in carb boots
-beware tank petcoks flat head screwdriver is perfectly straight(a bit off and resticts fuel passage) and clean gas screen petcock.
How it is going?, yes, they are two separate things, i edited the original post.
I would add that replacing JIS screws with allen for carbs its mich better
I fired her up today. First time in about five and a half years.
She fired up easily, with only a little idle speed adjustment needed.
Just a couple of minor problems:
-The carbs are overflowing. I tried tapping on the bowls, etc., but I'm guessing the O-rings on the seats dried out while it sat.
-The tach is sluggish, but started working better when I rode it up and down the street. Is there anything easy and non-invasive I can try?
- The carbs are from a 2006 model. I don't like the way the throttle cable attaches. It comes out of the holder a little too easy. I need to figure out a way to lock these nuts better. Access is really tight in there.
Where can I get needle valve assemblies that aren't $50/ea ?!
Or, can you replace just the O-rings?
These should work for the '06 carbs, correct?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186078820340?fits=Model%3ADRZ250%7CMake%3ASuzuki&_skw=Suzuki+DRZ-250+needle+valve&itmmeta=01J9XX4SKC13SRSGV631QRYR14&hash=item2b532977f4:g:wYYAAOSwlO1lAjW7&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnWGAQVsYaoqTuzN3si1ncXLC7ULTzzIXK6E1s4VdH%2FdnH6SUxmfv1vBug6wYUmGRsx6Th6W0LSK1Nfbk2ImQfRqI0xixHS6%2BTlvQhjraSmmz0cg%2BF6IYGJruxyYcjCmLt84nZxsNSKS8zv84VfQIAo0Z6ojKALBQTHVXZVp9EbF3DqJCPS1U5B3pCP20ITzeSozmuwh6SFwzMHNpF5r1t6dL3A3n5L25OeaHll4AB%2F%2BKZ57G%2FXhO7EWMit121uAnwf6UcrIQ9PwNRKYSsUKdYH%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-SZk73PZA
Waittt, all the needle valves have that filtering screen? I might have mine clogged as hell so fuiel starvation is a thing with a dirty tank
I pulled the carbs today. Super easy compared to a CB550.
I hooked them up to the fuel bottle just to make sure they were overflowing and not leaking from the inlet tee.
Guess what?
They didn't leaking a drop! DOH!
I just spent $50 on new needle valves. Oh, well... it's probably best to change them anyway. Especially with the rubber tips, after sitting for more than 5 years.
Got the leaking carbs fixed and installed the bodywork. Took her for the first real ride in over five years (though still only around the neighborhood).
She's running great! Tach is still a little slow but getting better.
But, now the rear brake is dragging. Dang it! I rebuilt the front calipers and installed a braided hose. The rear, I just flushed and bled. It worked find around the garage, but now it's sticking. Oh, we'll... should be an easy fix!
https://youtu.be/QYow4ufs-x0
That's called an 'Indian gift" haha, (sorry) but you can see why he gave it away can't you.
Anyway it's a 'project' so don't expect it to be easy easy eh.
It's all taken care of now!
Pulled the caliper and one of the seals had gotten stuck. Cleaned the caliper again, used a good bit of brake assembly lube and put it back together. Rode it around for a few miles and so far, so good! Fingers crossed.