Hello bikers, I have been trying to figure out what's up with my gs500e.
Its been mostly fine up until recently it started playing up after riding for 15-20mins sometimes, losing power and eventually stalling. I find that if I wait few minutes it will restart, and its ok for another mile or so then stalls again. But other times its fine - so maybe its weather dependent! I also notice recently that even shortly after starting the tickover is becoming slow and then stalling.
I been thinking it may be the signal generator after reading some similar comment on line. So I tried to measure the resistance by first unplugging the connector (red and green circled in photo) and measuring resistance from the pins in the circled red block. Thats between the brown and black/blue wire pins.
I have a multi meter which gives a reading of 8.32 in the 2kOhm and 20kOhm range (but 1 in the 200 Ohm range). So that doesnt make any sense to me... unless the reading is actually 8.32 kOhm. This Ultrics multimeter seems a bit basic so its not clear to me if the reading is in Ohms or kOhms. In any case its supposed to be between 250 and 420 Ohms according to a manual.
Has anyone got any guidance about this because Im losing the plot? Thanks.
Also (on the subject) I took a look at the rotor on the signal generator (under the RHS crankcase cover) and the gap between the rotor and the black sensor/coil block (not sure what its called) looks slightly different on either side of the rotor. One is maybe 0.6mm and the other side even less. Does it have to be exactly 0.8mm, or does it not matter too much. I have not put a gauge in to measure the gap yet- just inspecting by eye.
when my signal generator failed, the old model, the engine would rev without power, maybe in one cylinder and skipping explosions so i you have a 7k rpm engine with no torque. very strange feeling.
They usually fail when hot so i would simulate heating them up while you are measuring, beware that temperature always changes resistance in electronics so a healthy pickup could vary also... but way less
My multimeter needs a new battery, i could get you the reading for a new style pickup.
Have you checked the service manual?
gap is stated there maybe also resistance.
when i had that failure i would head as i could to a gas station and pouring water on the pickups( no cover) would bring it back to life.
Quote from: Giles on May 06, 2024, 11:46:44 AMI have a multi meter which gives a reading of 8.32 in the 2kOhm and 20kOhm range (but 1 in the 200 Ohm range). So that doesnt make any sense to me... unless the reading is actually 8.32 kOhm. This Ultrics multimeter seems a bit basic so its not clear to me if the reading is in Ohms or kOhms. In any case its supposed to be between 250 and 420 Ohms according to a manual.
ohm
8.32 in 20K= 8.32Kohm
8.3 in 200K= 8,3 Kohm
between these two modes you would only be losing 1 digit of resolution.. so expected behaviour
look how the decimal dot moves between modes asd you turn the knob
8.3K Ohm in 200OHM= Out of range, in many multimeters no connection puts a 1 with no decimal dot, , it s somewhat diffferernt, like a "logic" one. not the same one you would get reading exactly one. and is a 1 without decimals no matter wich mode you are.
Tester is OK, rmember that to measure CURRENT you have to measure in SERIES not parallel (changing the cable banana plug to the other position)
if not you can fry it, or at least kill the fuse.
so the reading on the ultrics multimeter is in kOhm, even though theres nothing to indicate kOhm on the LCD display?
the unit is the mode you choose, some fancier multimeters have a lcd segment dedicated to this, others dont.
The problem is the multimeter or your bike?
Also, you are measuring the wrong connector. Clean all of them
Better to measure directly on each pickup
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs500-2001-k1-usa-e03_model16023/signal-generator-assy_3311044420/
and in the service manual you have the resistance.
When was the last time you checked your valve clearances?
Too tight valves can cause the issues you describe: running well cold, then stalling when warm
If its the signal generator, you need to measure it with a hot engine and cold engine to see if the resistance is different. Otherwise it will test fine cold and you won't know why it keeps stopping. You can find a working used one cheap to swap in and try. Its an expensive part new but also a common failure point so maybe worth the money if you plan on putting many years/miles on the bike.
I agree with Roofaloof, tight valve clearances could also be to blame. When exhaust valves are tight it will start up really easy but then die when you pull in the clutch after warming up.