I bought his after my stockers got bent. Today, a truck pulled left in front of me. I hit his door at a 45 degree angle going roughly 15 mph. I was not wearing a helmet and I feel like a total idiot :x
Anyway, the handlebars ended up taking all the impact of the collision. They snapped at the weld as seen in the pic. I felt nothing and my body lightly scraped the truck before the bike and I fell over. And my shoe came off. The bike is fine I think.
(http://www.imageshack.us/files2/theater002.JPG)
PS... can I get another pair Srinath? :mrgreen:
why does the shoes always come off during an accident?
OK looks like I can weld it back... send it to me, it will also let me analyse the depth of weld etc and see if we can can improve on the design. OK that also looks like it was a huge impact, cos we could not break them and we tried with a 10 foot pole slipped over the end of the bar and the other end put in a pipe buried in the floor for some or other reason... BUt impact load is different from 2 guys pulling on it.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: Frostwhy does the shoes always come off during an accident?
because of the tremendous forces actin on your body on impact. Wear proper motorcycle boots and it wont happen.
Lets hear it for poor welding!
:cheers: :mrgreen: :nana:
Ouch :o
OooooHhhh...I'm ducking, this is gonna get UGLY!!!! :o
Quote from: JamesGLets hear it for poor welding!
:cheers: :mrgreen: :nana:
oh no you didn't, no you didn't :x
Is that a spot of rust at the top of the break? Did the bike get rained on between the accident and the picture? If there were a spot of rust there, that can indicate that there was a hairline crack in the weld before the accident.
I had a stick-shift in a Ford van that went that way: the think was almost 1/2" diameter steel, but I went to shift into 3rd and it snapped off, leaving the van in 2nd for the rest of the semester (!). On the surface of the break, I could see some corrosion.
I will work on sending back to you, just as soon as I get done around here.
Ya it did rain, a lot in fact and I did notice rust spots in the areas around the weld. I was thinking that you need some sort of inner support where the welds meet, a rod or something.
Poor welding... ok fine maybe. I went to the welders shop today and tried to bend/break the rejects and proto types... they all held up well ... Its probably 3 times stronger than the stock even with poor welding. Anyway its supposed to break right next to the weld if stressed enough. At the weld is bad... however the bar is 3/16 wall... weld penetration if its incomplete will break at the weld... Its monstrously strong compared to stock... however the stock will have bent into a bow tie instead of breaking... weld is brittle. Now instead of sending it to me and being without handle bars... lemme send you one and then after you put it on send me the old one. Or you can get that welded up at a muffler shop... just tell them to crank the current all the way high, and the wire very very slow, oh they probably know that thick wall needs good heat...
Cool.
Srinath.
Oh and if it breaks near the weld you cant weld it back... Might want to get the 3/16th welded back even if it didn't completely penetrate... cos the next batch is going to have 100% penetration of weld ... monstrously strong and if you were to stress it enough will break the way its supposed to... we already tested it.
Cool.
Srinath.
QuoteOh and if it breaks near the weld you cant weld it back
Dont tell my past Cars/trucks/bikes that, they might fall apart.
Honestly, thats pretty fresh rust, but Blowing up the pic it looks more like Not quite enough penetration. Srinath, Try Beveling the ends alittlebit and fill in the groove or Bump the heat up alittle bit, are you using AC or DC output? i have seen alot of welds hold up to the Bend test, but fail the shock and shear tests. Mine included among some of them, But only once, most never break a second time.
I have Reburned welds with No problem, just up the heat or work alittle slower. Cuting the welds with Blades, thats another matter.
Srinath's $40 bars....vs...Suburban-machinery $125 bars.
You be the judge.
Well the way I see it energy has to disapate somewhere, the bar broke not the rider. Is'nt that a result?
Quote from: pantabloSrinath's $40 bars....vs...Suburban-machinery $125 bars.
You be the judge.
Hey Pablo,
Haven't you broken the SM's... Atleast these are easy to repair cheap.
Cool.
Srinath.
The expectation of it not breaking is pretty high. Hitting a moving vehicle certainly sends way more load than any handlebar could expect to survive. The stock bar would have folded or bent in to the tank.
I say send Srinath the $ for a replacement set. Just my opinion.
okay....enough about the weld....you said you and the bike fell over and the bike is okay...HOW ABOUT YOU :o ?? Hope you won't go out without a helmet again.....sounds like you may have been lucky this time :roll:
Wayne
No problem that it broke... Hit anything hard enough and it will break... but a clean break separating the welded pieces perfectly is bad weld penetration. I am thinking I'll send all the guys that bought them some $$ back, and please take it to a welder/muffler shop and weld up the thing. Send it to me and I'll weld it and send back... but that means a lot of $$$ to UPS. I talked to my welder in detail last night... I'll post tommorow after talking to him some more and post the right resolution. And onefastvega please use a helmet, and dont do stupid things... I am feeling a little down, on seeing Ken (werase643) crash and break his collar bone... and possibly spending the night in the hospital... all in the first lap of his first race. This sure is a bad week for people that hang around me...
Cool.
Srinath.
srinath, i paypalled you $52 on friday AM. i'm having some second thoughts now, let us know what you and your welder decide...
I got the paypal... the new bar is 1/8th wall. I am also stuffing it with a solid rod inside for ~ 2 inches on either side of the welds. The break tests we did on the 1/8th wall broke next to the weld even without the rod stuffing. And they took tremendous force before they broke, and they bent a lot too before breaking. You should never see that sorta force even in an accident. The older one I made was 3/16 wall... the funny thing is... even after we stuffed the thing with a rod inside and welded it up when we did manage to break it... it still broke at the weld. Also it bent less... far less under more force. AKA brittle... but much higher failure force. I belive that 3/16 is just too much for the welder we have. It penetrates 1/8 fully wihtout doubt. I think the new method is better than the old one... mind you even the old way takes far more load than a stock one will take... cos a 6ft pole and a 240lb guy at the end of it will turn the stocker into a bungee cord. Anyway I will take back all the old ones and send new ones to anyone that wants it free including shipping out at my expense, but you'll have to ship it to me at your expense... Or I'll give $8 (1/2 of what I paid my welder for each handlebar complete) to anyone that has the old bar.. and include instructions for any local welder to weld it up to where it wont fail at the weld, so they can take it and get it done... So this is like a formal recall... please let me know what you want to do. Of course I can fix the old one and send back to each one that wants it instead of the new one. Lemme know...
Cool.
Srinath.
eh, send me one of those new suckers... stronger than the stockers and 1/3 the cost of the SMs. if i snap one of those, i'm sure i'll have other things to worry about.
send one out when you get a chance! :thumb:
Also I am not going to paint these... and grind them down either... the welds are not too ugly anyway... that paint covered up the thing and those guys ground down the welds to the point of nothing in some cases for the smooth looks.
Cool.
Srinath.