When I bought my 1990 GS the normal driving light didn't work, only high beam did. I eventually put in a new light in Feb 2004.
After a few days I would be riding along and for no apparent reason the headlight would dim for a fraction of a second then go normal.
It would do this a few times in a row then be normal for a few minutes then repeat the same process.
Tonight the driving light died... I rode around with high beam on but it died after 1 minute...
I only replaced the bulb like 2 months ago. Is there something electrically wrong or I just happened to buy a bad bulb?
Mine is doing the same thing...Imine is caused by the regulator not putting out constant voltage ranges from 14 -16.6 volts. I am waiting to put a new regulator in and see if that fixes it.
yep, it's still dead!
the bulb exploded into lots of pieces...
thats strange it being blown to pieces was it halogen? according to clymer it should be a 12v 60/55 watt h4. do they make a bigger bulb? maybe it can take the extra watts. i think thats why the normal light blew first because the high beam can take more heat. if your not using halogen try that they can take alot of heat but don't touch the bulb with your fingers because the grease from your hands will cause it to blow. it would suck to replace the regulator because of a bulb.
what they said about not touching the bulb... try putting another one in, when installing, do NOT touch the bulb, if youve got access to them, rubber glove works good. try that and see whassup :thumb:
Update....
I put the original bulb back in, the bulb that came with the bike and only worked in high beam.
Well not that one is dead too...
I think there is an regulator problem. What you fellas think?
What can I do to test or fix and how much $$$ am I up for?
Where is the regulator located and how much do they cost to buy from Suzuki?
The bulb exploded bc it got to hot. the oils from your hand create a heat that will cause the bulb to burst. Do not touch the bulb, if you do get some alcohol and wipe the bulb off and let air dry, then install the bulb with latex gloves or tissue. The problem with the low beam, could be the regulator but before i went out and spent any money, I would do a couple other things to rule it out: 1) Check all the wires make sure there is not any corrosion or loose wires, 2) Check the switch make sure it is actually working, 3)remove the regulator and bench test it, I can't remember exactly how to do it right now, but my dad is an engineer and I'll be glad to ask him. I know I have done it before. Good luck, and take your time.
Later,
Adam
1) where is the regulator?
2) when i put in the new globe 2 months ago it touched the back of my hand, but it worked for 2 months, albeit it would dim off and on every now and then.
Does having oil on the bulb explain why the buld stopped working? I can undersatnd that having oil on bulb would cause heat to concentrate and that explains why the bulb exploded into pieces when I used high beam.
But why did the bulb die in the 1st instance?
Thanx in advance.
After thinking about my headlight problem I think I can rule out faulty regulator as if that was the problem then the smaller bulbs in the system would blow befor the 12v halogen and possibly even the fuse would go.
Interesting chain of events.
3 weeks ago or so my tacho light died. A few days later i noticed oil dripping from the tacho cable where it connects to the engine. A week later my headligh blew etc.etc.etc...
I think there is a short in the tacho/headlight circuit...
Would I be right in thinking that if I had a regulator problem I would have blown all smaller bulbs or even a fuse. So therefor seeings as though the problem is located in the headlight/tacho area there is circuit/grounding problem?
I love one of these problems! First take your bezel off and check all the wires for a fray(cut).Check your fuses and fuse box for water(etc).Take your hi/low switch apart and spray with WD40.Work it back and fourth to make sure it is working properly.Check your battery making sure it is not being ground out by something on top of it.Normal amperage for a 12 volt system will be about 14-14 1/2. If you have a systems/battery tester check run voltage. you will need to run the bike 2500 rpms to do the test properly.While performing the test do not put the tester under load9do not touch the load switch) Speedometer and tach have nothing to do with charging system.