ok I tipped the bike over ( stupid side stand) and broke of the end of the lever ... And its just been a day since I have had the bike. I feel like such a moron. :x what would be the cheapest replacement for the lever...
Thanx,
Neil.
If it's just the ball end just leave it. File it smooth. A stupid person won't notice the difference and a smart one won't say anything.
I actually found my local dealer to have the best price on a brake lever.
My GS500 came with the ball cracked off... It was kind of a bother to me since I like everything in perfect working order. So one day while I was at the shop, for the hell of it, I asked how much? To my suprise, only $18 I think... I paid with a $20 and got change for sure. Didn't find anything near that cheap on the interweb and I would of had to pay shipping as well.
They also had really cheap turn signal lights so I got a pair for the broken ones my bike came with as well.
:cheers:
Actually if you're of the paranoid persuasion, that ball on the end of the lever is very important. Assuming you go down in a heap with your bike, you want as few sharp and pointy parts on the bike that could put extra holes into you. :nono:
I bought my GS with the ball of the clutch lever ball off. I was going to replace it but now I like it without it. Sure, its not symetrical but I like it. It seems like its easier without it because the ball isn't in the way. I have no frame of reference of course but it doesn't bother me any :mrgreen:
Like WAP says, broken levers are dangerous.
A friend of mine dropped his new SVS (actually his wife did) and broke the ball off the brake lever. Before he could get it fixed, he T-boned a car that turned left in front of him. On his way over the bars and car, his leg caught that pointy brake lever and cut a nice gash in his thigh that needed a dozen stitches.
You can buy cheap but perfectly serviceable EMGO levers for less than $10 via most discount mail order shops or off Ebay.
Doesn't WERA and other racing organizations require them? I guess for safety reasons.
It's nice to have balls... Keep it clean people :nono: ...GET YOUR MINDS OUT OF THE GUTTER
:mrgreen:
Anyway, the wind blew my GS over and sure enough the ball was missing. I picked up a pair of e-bay. They were painted to look like carbon :? , at first I thought they were kind of cheezy :roll: . Then I put them on and they fit realy well on my black and grey 98 GS :thumb: . There is a power seller selling them for about $20. He ships FAST. Here are the stock color ones
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2473185041&category=10066
Here are the ones I got (they seem to be up in price, I got mine for $14)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2473216271&category=10066
Here is a pair for the 89 GS (they ARE different)!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2473165712&category=10066
Cheers,
-Denis S.
I just bought one from my local dealer. It only cost $8. It was some replacement brand but looks exactly the same.
Quote from: dgyverDoesn't WERA and other racing organizations require them? I guess for safety reasons.
Yup. There is no quicker way to get kicked back at Tech then to show up with pointy levers.
I bought a black clutch lever when mine broke from the dealer. It actually looked really cool. Only problem was I didn't ahve the black brake lever to match :roll:
ASLAM.
I've been meaning to pick up some spare levers just in case...but i notice that the ones above on ebay are only listed for '90-'00 GS's. Any idea if/how the levers are different on later-model bikes? A 2002 specifically. :dunno:
I needed a new brake lever a couple weeks ago. Got a set from my local shop for ~$18, had both the brake and the clutch levers. Some aftermarket replacement brand, it was listed for the early-mid '90's GSX-Rs but they're exact fits on the GS.
jeff
wicked ... thanx for input will mos definetly swing by a dealer for the levers ...
I will also be replacing the tires (I m gonna buy the tires online)... Is it cheaper to take the wheels of the bike and take the tires and wheels to a shop to have em mounted and balanced rather then just take the bike there and have them do everything? If the diff is small then I would rather have the shop do it all ... Plus since I just bought I was thinkin of doin a tune up ... I am goin to change the oil ... lube the chain and I am also putting in a new battery. ... what else do you guys suggest?
+ The bike pulls to the right. I am the third owner and the first owner low sided the bike and bent the handle bar on the right side. The forks are good and straight ... Could the reason that the bike is pulling to the right be the bars? The dude I bought the bike from rode the bike that way and didnt bother bout correcting the problem. I was gonna get the clip ons from srinath and put those on.
Do you guys have anyother tips as to what I should inorder to make the bike run as clean as possible and be a reliable as possible?
Thanks appreciate your help.
Much cheaper to take just the wheels in for mount/balance. I got mount/ balance for 2 tires off the bike for $36 at the dealer. I think they wanted about twice that for on the bike.
I bought BT45's from dmtaonline.com for about $173 with shipping, I'm not exactly sure because I bought a helmet at the same time. Also, they didn't have the helmet on the shelf, so the ship date was delayed about a week. Just the tires would have shipped sooner. Be aware one or two of they other users here had bad experiences with dmta. I, however, found them to be friendly and proffesional when I called them about the status of my order.
Oil change is a must and chain lube too. Sorry no advice on forks
good luck :cheers:
Quote from: Nomak+ The bike pulls to the right. I am the third owner and the first owner low sided the bike and bent the handle bar on the right side. The forks are good and straight ... Could the reason that the bike is pulling to the right be the bars? The dude I bought the bike from rode the bike that way and didnt bother bout correcting the problem. I was gonna get the clip ons from srinath and put those on.
Do you guys have anyother tips as to what I should inorder to make the bike run as clean as possible and be a reliable as possible?
Thanks appreciate your help.
Loosen the fork tubes in the triple trees. Make sure they are not twisted. They can easily twist in the triples slighty causing the bike to pull. When the tube are loose, rotate them to verify if they are straight. Also, check the alignment of the rear wheel by making sure the chain is straight. Do not rely on the tick marks on the swingarm.
Does anybody know of a do-it-yourself link that shows how to take the wheels of and put em back on?
Thanx
Quote from: NomakDoes anybody know of a do-it-yourself link that shows how to take the wheels of and put em back on?
Don't know of any How-To's with pictures (YET!) but here is one
GStwin.com thread about it:
removing wheels...I would endorse
gsJack's method of blocking up the frame with boards (or whatever is handy) when removing the front wheel.
I also recommend getting a repair manual if you prefer a step-by-step description. That way you won't be confused by the speedometer cable, the front brake caliper, etc. and you'll have diagrams to remind you how things go back together.
The most important thing is to be organized. Thread all the stuff that comes off of each axle back ONTO the axle for safekeeping while the wheel is away at the shop. Keep retaining bolts and speedometer parts and cotter pins organized in an egg carton or something.
After you've done this once it will be no big deal the next time around.
Good Luck!
(I wonder what
tigerstyle102 ended up doing...?)
Regarding the levers check eBay. Do a search for "GS500" and I'm sure you'll find a package deal clutch and brake lever for around $24.95. That's where I got mine from. The brake lever can be expensive due to the fact it's adjustable.
I got another problem... well it aint really a problem... well anyways whenever I turn on the bike I have to leave the bike with the choke on for a couple of minuts. If I turn the choke off and try to ride the bike stalls on me and then I gotta put it into prime to start it. This happens even if the bike has been switched off for just about 20-30 mins. Is this normal? Will it help if I clean out my carbs? The bike is currently at 6700 miles and I do not know what kinda maintenace schedule the previous owner followed ... Do I need to get some kinda tune up done ... I just changed the oil today.
Well it happened to me today ... I turned the bike on using the choke and as I strted to drive away she strted stalling on me. I pulled over ran her with the choke on for a few mins and then I after a few seconds when I was up at bout 40mph if I twist the throttle it felt as though the more I twisted the more power I lost eventually I had to pull over and the bike stalled. I drove rest of the way on PRI. Need help. What can I do to fix this? BTW how much does a carb clean up and sync with valve adj cost?