Title: ok then
Post by: pastor1 on May 07, 2004, 04:14:43 PM
Post by: pastor1 on May 07, 2004, 04:14:43 PM
well i just got my carbs back from the bike shop completely rebuilt, and the bike still doesnt run right. It will start and then idle for awhile then it acts like it is loading up and dies. So what else could be the problem with this bike. If anyone has any clues let me know asap. It is killing me not being able to ride it and spending all the time trying to figure out whats wrong with it.
Thanks
Thanks
Title: ok then
Post by: scratch on May 07, 2004, 04:30:38 PM
Post by: scratch on May 07, 2004, 04:30:38 PM
Did you just take the carbs to the shop? If so, they haven't fixed the whole problem by the sounds of it. I'm beginning to suspect the valves.
Title: ok then
Post by: pastor1 on May 07, 2004, 04:38:35 PM
Post by: pastor1 on May 07, 2004, 04:38:35 PM
do you think that the valves are out of whack or what? How hard is it to check the valve clearances? Is it a long drawn out process or is it fairly easy and quick like an hour or so?
thanks
thanks
Title: ok then
Post by: richard on May 07, 2004, 06:03:15 PM
Post by: richard on May 07, 2004, 06:03:15 PM
Valve check: couple things to remember. Main thing is, don't do it when the engine is warm :-( which means you can't ride it that day before you check. let it sit at least overnight.
This is a decent intro to it (http://www.gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm)
Do a search of valve clearance on the site... you'll pull up a lot of info. You'll have to pull the tank and the carbs, and loosen the airbox (but prolly not actually take it out). I left my carbs dangling by the choke cable 'cause I was too lazy to remove it completely, but that's up to you.
Then you gotta take off the vent thingy cover on the very top, 4 bolts and off it comes. Use a 6mm (I think) allen wrench to remove the bolts on the valve cover, make sure you keep track of where they went (or at least which still have O rings on them, which the O rings got left in the hole) so you don't end up with some of them w/out the O rings when you put it back on.
When you remove the valve cover, there are 4 cams underneith. you had to remove the vent cover thingy on the very top 'cause otherwise there isn't enough room to get it off the bike.
If you have a haynes manual, it's got decent instructions for all of this. forgot to check the clymer, but I imagine it's there somewhere.
put the bike in 6th gear (it's already on the center stand, right?) and turn the rear wheel the same dir as the engine to get the cams to turn. Make the cam point straight up (relative to it's housing) and use a feeler gauge to check the clearance below.
It should be between 0.03mm and 0.08mm.
If it's too big, get a shim .05mm bigger than the one in there. if too small, get one .05mm smaller (and hope that's all you need... one of mine needed 5 sizes smaller, but that is *very* rare. I think mine had never been checked).
You need to either A. use a funky little tool (search around for pics) or B. remove the bolts that hold the cams on to get the old shim out. the tool is definitely easier (IMHO), but you have to find or make one.
ask questions about anything you get stuck on....
This is a decent intro to it (http://www.gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm)
Do a search of valve clearance on the site... you'll pull up a lot of info. You'll have to pull the tank and the carbs, and loosen the airbox (but prolly not actually take it out). I left my carbs dangling by the choke cable 'cause I was too lazy to remove it completely, but that's up to you.
Then you gotta take off the vent thingy cover on the very top, 4 bolts and off it comes. Use a 6mm (I think) allen wrench to remove the bolts on the valve cover, make sure you keep track of where they went (or at least which still have O rings on them, which the O rings got left in the hole) so you don't end up with some of them w/out the O rings when you put it back on.
When you remove the valve cover, there are 4 cams underneith. you had to remove the vent cover thingy on the very top 'cause otherwise there isn't enough room to get it off the bike.
If you have a haynes manual, it's got decent instructions for all of this. forgot to check the clymer, but I imagine it's there somewhere.
put the bike in 6th gear (it's already on the center stand, right?) and turn the rear wheel the same dir as the engine to get the cams to turn. Make the cam point straight up (relative to it's housing) and use a feeler gauge to check the clearance below.
It should be between 0.03mm and 0.08mm.
If it's too big, get a shim .05mm bigger than the one in there. if too small, get one .05mm smaller (and hope that's all you need... one of mine needed 5 sizes smaller, but that is *very* rare. I think mine had never been checked).
You need to either A. use a funky little tool (search around for pics) or B. remove the bolts that hold the cams on to get the old shim out. the tool is definitely easier (IMHO), but you have to find or make one.
ask questions about anything you get stuck on....
Title: ok then
Post by: Kerry on May 07, 2004, 10:02:13 PM
Post by: Kerry on May 07, 2004, 10:02:13 PM
Quote from: richardYou'll have to pull the tank and the carbs, and loosen the airbox (but prolly not actually take it out). I left my carbs dangling by the choke cable 'cause I was too lazy to remove it completely, but that's up to you.I hadn't read Marc's write-up for a long time. Thanks for the reminder! Richard, did you follow Marc's instructions when you did your valves? I'm wondering because when the Utah Gang checked & adjusted my valves on Wednesday, I didn't TOUCH the carbs or airbox. Maybe Marc reused some pics and text from a rejetting page or something?
I didn't even have to detach the throttle or choke cables like I needed to in the past, and now I understand why: I rerouted them when I installed my handlebar risers, so there is more slack.
Quote from: richardYou need to either A. use a funky little tool (search around for pics) or B. remove the bolts that hold the cams on to get the old shim out. the tool is definitely easier (IMHO), but you have to find or make one.Here's the "funky tool" that we used on Wednesday:
Dennis Kirk has 4 of these in stock at the moment. Check out the Valve Shim Tool for Suzuki GS550/750/850 (Dennis Kirk part #28270). I know the description doesn't mention the GS500, but trust me -- it's the correct tool. Unfortunately, it's currently priced at $33.99. :o
If you want to try something else before dropping that much cash, I have heard that an open end wrench of a certain size will do the trick. Now, if I could just remember what size that was.... :dunno:
The last option I know of (besides ordering the $100? tool from Suzuki) is to make your own from a piece of steel plate. Here is a suggested design from the Haynes manual:
Whichever route you choose, here are some more clues from the Haynes manual:
Good Luck! :thumb:
EDIT: Changed links from sisna.com to bbburma.net
Title: ok then
Post by: Jared on May 08, 2004, 03:55:15 AM
Post by: Jared on May 08, 2004, 03:55:15 AM
Before going nuts with any valve tinkering ( check them if you wish-it's not a bad idea to do it...)... -----Who's to say the shop got your carbs right without having your bike to test them?
When you transported the carbs home did you keep them sitting vertical (as they are mounted on the bike) or did the lay on heir side/ upside down?? floats can get stuck that way...
Tap on the float bowls -your floats may be stuck ...and I'm still betting their "factory settings" may be the cause.
Good luck.
When you transported the carbs home did you keep them sitting vertical (as they are mounted on the bike) or did the lay on heir side/ upside down?? floats can get stuck that way...
Tap on the float bowls -your floats may be stuck ...and I'm still betting their "factory settings" may be the cause.
Good luck.