GStwin.com GS500 Message Forum

i'm about to order a new chain and sprockets.  just so that i can ride in the meantime, though, i was thinking about tightening my chain like i've heard some on this board do.  the thing is, i don't understand how you do this?  from some previous posts i've gathered you have to break the chain to remove it,  so how do you tighten the chain w/o removing it?

The threaded adjusters on the ends of your swingarm. But, before you tighten those you will need to loosen your rear axle and axle nut. And, before you even do this, make a note of where the axle lines up on the tick marks on both sides of the swingarm, to make sure that your rear wheel is in alignment after the adjustment. Adjustment should be done with the bike on the sidestand, and I used to prefer to do the adjustment on a cold chain (not right after a ride), but have learned since that the chain will be up to a half inch tighter when warm.

To go with scratch's instructions....

Rear axle nut w/cotter pin, left-side chain adjuster.
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1434_ChainAdjuster_LeftSide.jpg)

Right-side chain adjuster:
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1433_ChainAdjuster_RightSide.jpg)

You can't see it very well in these pictures, but there is a "notch" cut into the top of the rounded metal plates to help you identify the nearest "tick mark" that scratch mentioned.

Once you loosen the axle nut, use a 10mm wrench to tighten the adjusters.  My suggestion is to turn the wrench about 90 degrees (1/4 turn clockwise) on one side, then 90 degrees on the other side, and then check the tightness of the chain.  If you need to take out more slack, go another 90 degrees on either side and check again.  (With a well-aligned wheel, make sure that any adjustment you make on one side is done on the other side as well.)

EDIT: Changed links from sisna.com to bbburma.net

thanks guys, i'll try it tomorrow and write back if i have any problems.  oh yeah, one more thing, how do i know when the chain is tight enough?  i wouldn't wand to overtighten it.

My manual says that it should have 20 to 30 mm of slack.

Tightening the chain, I have always counted the number of "flats" turned on the adjusters, making it the same for right and left. and it stays in perfect alignment.

Replacing a chain that has not been tightened? Maybe you need to be sure it's worn. It may have plenty of life left, but it probably needs cleaned and greased at minimum.

You can clean it easily with kerosene, an old paintbrush, and a flat pan like a cake pan or plastic tub to catch the drips. Let it dry, then ad some chain lube. I use Suzuki lube which goes on thin and penetrates, then sticks like glue.

Quote from: EklipseMy manual says that it should have 20 to 30 mm of slack.

Important: measure this with the bike on the sidestand or, even better, with somebody sitting on it. (I think the Haynes manual is ambiguous about this point)

When the swing arm goes up, the chain gets tighter. Adjusting it for 20 mm of slack on the centerstand will give you a cahin that is taut when the bike is loaded (especially if you have somebody riding pillion).

I usually go for an inch and 1/8th when I push up on the lower run of chain right around the edge of the tire. That's about the middle of the chain between the two sprockets.

ok, so i finnally got around to tightening my chain.  one question:  after i tightened the chain, the notch on the metal plate on the sides of the axle moved back about two notches.  this happened on both sides, though, so it''s still in alignment, i think?  is this alight,?  i don't have to get that notch back to the original place do i?  or if i do then how do i do it?  thanks for the help!

After tightening, both notchs should line up with marks(on the swingarm) closer to the rear of the bike. Just make sure you line them up with the same position mark on each side. If that makes sense :?

thanks, that's exactly what i was  wondering.

What happens if the chain is too tight?

Quote from: EklipseWhat happens if the chain is too tight?

Could inhibit proper suspension travel, suck power, accelerate chain/sprocket wear.

If the chain is too tight it generates a rumbling noise on the overun similar to a worn big end. It will also make a loud clicking sound when the bike is pushed.

Quote from: chimivee

Quote from: EklipseWhat happens if the chain is too tight?

Could inhibit proper suspension travel, suck power, accelerate chain/sprocket wear.

Damage gearshaft bearing. This one 's the worst  IMHO.

I've found that the adjuster indicators - the things with the notches - move around quite a bit.  So I'll get it adjusted with those, then measure from the center of the axle bolt to the end of the swing arm just to make sure everything is aligned.   Not sure if this is sound advice, but it makes sense in my head!

About over tightening, I did that.  My chain made a very strange humming sound.  You want to make sure you tighten the chain at it's tightest point.  My chain, as is rolls around the sprockets, is tighter in some spots than others.  I've been told this is normal.  If you tighted it in the loosest spot, it will be too tight, if you tighten in the tightest spot you should be perfect.

:thumb:

Ok, quick question:

I am hoping to tighten my chain; it certainly needs it. But the owner manual says you need to "Replace the cotter pin with a new one".

I don't have one just laying around..I guess I could get one? Is there a reason you need to replace the cotter pin even if it isn't broken? Am I missing something?  :dunno:

Also, maybe I am just thick headed, but it also says the indicator marks are so the front and rear sprockets are in complete alignment. How does that effect the front sprocket..?  :dunno:

<--- N00b.

Quote from: PhaedrusOk, quick question:

Don't you mean FOUR quick questions?   :lol:

Quote from: PhaedrusI am hoping to tighten my chain; it certainly needs it. But the owner manual says you need to "Replace the cotter pin with a new one".

I don't have one just laying around..I guess I could get one?

Well, I guess so.  :roll:

As you can imagine, cotter pins from the hardware store come in different thicknesses.  Even at the same nominal thickness, different brands are beefier than others.  You may not be able to tell from the photo, but the ones on the left are a little thicker then the ones in the middle.




There's not much reason for the cotter pin to be this long.  If you get peace of mind from wrapping it around the end of the axle, go for it.  But my Dad told me (and I have found it to be true) that all you need is to separate the two ends by 3/8" or so - enough that the pin won't just fall out.  Its main job is to keep the nut from coming off the end of the axle.




Most recently, I have switched to a hitch pin.  It pulls right out, pushes right on, and shouldn't ever need replacing.

Quote from: PhaedrusIs there a reason you need to replace the cotter pin even if it isn't broken? Am I missing something?  :dunno:

Not really, as long as it isn't mangled.  If I straightened and re-bent the pin in the photo above more than once I'd think twice about doing it again.  But again ... cut it shorter, separate the ends slightly, and then reuse isn't a problem.

Quote from: PhaedrusAlso, maybe I am just thick headed, but it also says the indicator marks are so the front and rear sprockets are in complete alignment. How does that effect the front sprocket..?

It doesn't.  The sprockets are put into alignment by making the rear sprocket line up with the front one.

i use carb cleaner to clean my chain.. hold the can in one place.. spray.... rotate wheel.. wipe.. spray.. wipe.. re lube  :thumb:

I wouldn't get too worried about the cotter pin, the European bikes don't have them anyway. I hardly ever see more than ten or twelve wrecked bikes without rear wheels lying by the roadside on an afternoon ride.