I just received my replacement engine from tshirtracer via UPS this morning, so now I'm trying to decide how best to go about this. I've never done an engine swap before.
I'm assuming you've gotta drain the oil, remove tank, carbs, maybe airbox? if it's in the way. Been told to use an old mattress to lay it down, unbolt, lift off, but I don't have an old mattress. Any ideas for something else that would work well? I'd like to get started as soon as I can, 'cause I want my GS500 back!!
Any advice, suggestions, or offers to make me supreme dictator and/or give me your fully working GS are welcome.
Wow, I can barely take a carb off let alone replace an engine. GOOD LUCK
Btw what is tshirtracer?
Quote from: EvilScoobywhat is tshirtracer?
It's actually
T-Shirt Racer, a (former?)
GStwin.com member.
Quote from: richardI just received my replacement engine from tshirtracer via UPS this morning, so now I'm trying to decide how best to go about this. I've never done an engine swap before.
I'm assuming you've gotta drain the oil, remove tank, carbs, maybe airbox? if it's in the way. Been told to use an old mattress to lay it down, unbolt, lift off, but I don't have an old mattress. Any ideas for something else that would work well? I'd like to get started as soon as I can, 'cause I want my GS500 back!!
Any advice, suggestions, or offers to make me supreme dictator and/or give me your fully working GS are welcome.
Oil is OK, can leave it in, cos when motor is on its side or on the pan you'd not be able to remove the oil ... But take off spark plugs and wires, take tank, sides covers off, remove the starter cables, remove the ground wire to the motor from battery, remove the crank trigger plate and the wire from the clips on the motor, remove the stator if you are re-using that on the new motor... if not just remove the 3 wire plug, battery, remove the tach cable, air box and carbs and manifold boots. Then loosen the bolts that hold the sub frame in and loosen the motor mount bolts. And It really helps to have a mattress, if not use 2-3-4 pillows, or other cushions, and lay the bike on its right. then undo all the bolts... sub frame and the main motor mount bolts... and it should come out.
Cool.
Srinath.
Old Matress?? Ohhhh- I get it... I'd probably go about differently.
It should be a fairly straight forward swap- knowing you and Kerry it should only take a couple hours... but I'd recommend you check and double check everything on the incoming motor including valve clearances.
Get rid of everything that might get in the way or anything fragile (carbs, airbox, hoses) and keep track of what was disconnected. Your manual should have everything listed - but I have found white out a good tool for marking bolts and wires.
You'll probably want a hydrolic floor jack to help lift and finess the engine. You'll also need a solid way to secure your bike. Don't forget the torque wrench ...
Quote from: richardBeen told to use an old mattress to lay it down, unbolt, lift off, but I don't have an old mattress. Any ideas for something else that would work well? I'd like to get started as soon as I can, 'cause I want my GS500 back!!
Any advice, suggestions, or offers to make me supreme dictator and/or give me your fully working GS are welcome.
Maybe use a few layers of cardboard if you want something disposeable that will cusion the engine when dropping it out.
And no you can't have my GS :roll: :lol:
grab your digital camera, or even an old poloriod, and take lots of pictures... before starting and during removal... this is a good way to double check when your re-assembling.
with no airbox and hindle exhaust held on with springs, i can have my engine out and on the bench in less then 20 mins. i can have it back in and runnning in 30 min. mine doesnt have a centerstand, so i put it up on jackstands just behind the front pegs,(clear of right frame spar) and block the front wheel with 3 concrete blocks, 2 on sides one in front standing up, and run a rope through wheel and blocks to keep everything tight.
disconnet the battery. lift tank, shut off fuel, remove tank set aside out of the way.
(loosen airbox stuff ans remove the carbs, let them hang off left side of bike from cable. Disconnect plug wires sticking them in frame area,disconect stator,neutral light, starter lead, pickup triggers(right side), and ground lead. drop exhaust,remove fronts sprocket cover let hang off left side of bike, remove clip for front sprocket, slide sproket and chain off shaft as one, set clip and sprockt in safe place to use on next engine let chain sag over swingarm. remove all nuts from frame spars and keep toghter in bowl/cup , now remove the front and bottom long bolts,nuts, and Spacers, slide them back toghter to keep track and set them aside with the frame spar that just came loose, now only 2 long bolts in very back are holding the engine in place. set floor jack under engine alittle forward of drain plug, this should be near the ballenceing point of the engine, its very front heavy. loosen and remove the nuts on the bolts and pump the jack enough to remove the weight from the bolts, do this slow as you might have to stop and move the jack for better ballence. once the bolts are out, lower the engine alittle and move it forward in the frame(NOT TILTING FORWARD), once you can clear the rear end of the engine, turn it ass out and lower it some more, PLZ USE EXTREME CAUTION, the engine is heavy and is easy to loose control once ballence is lost, it will hurt you. not everyone has the size or strength to do it so helping hands are a plus, justkeep an eye on them. i prefer working alone so if it does slip, i can jump outa the way and not get hurt, but then i dont expect anyone to curl a gs engine with any ease.
getting the engine back in is alittle harder as your fighting gravity, insert it face first into the frame, raise it alittle at a time till you can rotate the ass end into the frame and up and back again, work on getting one bolt in, once that happens the rest falls into place. everything you tool off is within reach to put back to gether, just remember to check oil, oil plug tight? turn fuel back on before bolting tank down. and hook battery up only when ready to start it.
cool... and I might even know someone who has a floor jack... who owes me a favor, no less. =]
Now to just find time to do it...
Quote from: richardcool... and I might even know someone who has a floor jack... who owes me a favor, no less. =]
Now to just find time to do it...
OK fine go with his method.... $$%^%&^^&*&*&**(.... :mrgreen:
Cool.
Srinath.
(patting Srinath's brow) :mrgreen: :dunno: what can i sat!
aww c'mon now, dont enrage the guru :nono: :roll: :nana: :dunno:
The mattress method is really cool... You need a mattress to get wrenches etc on the under side... Putting the motor back in is easier too... But yes use your fancy floor jack... see if I care... FINE...
Cool.
Srinath.
hey, if I had a matress, I'd probably do it that way... sounds easier, though possibly more time consuming.
problem is, I don't think my parents would be too thrilled if I took one of our matresses out there... =] even if I put a tarp over it or something.
:dunno:
so I'll use whatever method it looks like I have the tools for... besides, then if I have problems, I can blame whoever suggested that method, right? right.
:thumb:
if it helps, when i first got the GS and had to swap everything over from race frame to titled frame, i did just that, thick blanket and set the frame over it. took me an hour to get the damn bolts lined up right. i have since found the floor jack methode easyer for me. no bending in funny positions,no crushed toe when engine shifts. thank god i wore my steel toe boots that day.