I have a three part commute every day (home -> school ->work ->home) and when my bike was running fine until I started it up after work. The first time I started it, it made a clunking sound like something was loose and bouncing around inside the left (when you're riding) side of the engine. I thought my transmission was not quite all the way in neutral (thus bouncing around between 1st and neutral) so I hit the kill switch and went into and out of neutral. I started it again, and it still made the same sound so I shut it off again and took the plug wires off so i could hear the noise when just the starter was running. I tried that, and couldn't hear anything so I put the wires back on and started it up again (no more noise). Since then it has been idleing a little on the rough side, and whenever I get above 4k, my bike startes to vibrate like its going to shake itself apart. There are also a lot more vibrations than usual at lower speeds, but not as much so. I also feel a loss of power, especially above 5k; almost like it's running on one cylender but not quite as bad.
I have two thoughts and I am hoping for some suggestions from you all before I go any farther.
Could this just be a ignition problem? I just replaced my plugs the other day, but the bike was running fine until this happened. One of the plug wire is loose, so could it be as simple as replacing my plug wires and/or re-adjusting the gap on my plugs? (currently set at ~.029 inch or ~.9mm which is what my previous plugs were set at)
I saw this post about balance shaft bearings (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4135&highlight=vibrate) and I am really hoping that I don't have the same problem.
I have a 93 gs with 6600 miles on it.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Well, I talked to the service department at the local Suzuki dealer today, and I found out that the service manager used to race a gs500. I have only talked to them over the phone (I plan to bring my bike in there in the next couple of days to be sure) but they are of the opinion that I will need to replace the counterbalance bearings and the side covers (Am I using the right term here?). They have never heard of this happening to an engine this young (miles), and while I want to wait until they look at it in person; I'm planning for the worst and I want to figure out if I am going to be able to do this myself (they estimate at least $800 to fix it :x :guns: ).
Is it a generally a good idea for someone to rebuild an engine with no previous experience doing so? I have worked on engines before and I have watched it done a couple of times, but I have never done it myself. If I do end up rebuilding, are there any upgrades that I should do while I have the engine taken apart? Would I be better off looking for a new (to me) engine?
Anyhow, it looks like I won't be riding for a while :( . And I just got the rest of the parts I needed to work on my brakes, too. *sighs, hangs head :( *
Now you all have to ride more to make up for me :lol:
Any suggestions or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Working on an engine is not that difficult. Having the right tools and enough time are usually the problems. I never had any real experience working on motors until I got the GS and everything worked out good. I started by reading a Clymer manual and eventually bought a factory manual as well. Got a Haynes manual the other day but have not looked in it yet.
but...$800...OUCH! You can get another bike for that price or at least a used motor for half that, which I happen to have one for sale very soon.
It would be best for them to look at it to verify what the problem is. Maybe once the motor is opened up, it turns out to be something minor.
Can't talk for the states, but in Europe usually swapping motors is the more economically sound path once you have one of the plain bearings go south. Problem is that usually the shaft takes a hit as well and has to be replaced. If it's just the counterbalancer you might just scrape by with cost of parts if you cna do everything yourself. As soon as the crankshaft is involved you are usually out of luck.
Bad thing about plain bearing damage is that their wont is to come in series. One takes the other with it by means of spreading debris around the oil circuit.
About this not happening to young engines: Plain bearing damage more often than not has its root in low oil level or engine overload with the oil not up to operating temperature. That can happen at any mileage. Plain bearings supplied with oil under pressure in fact have almost no natural wear, so mileage is not major determining factor in them getting damaged.
Left side of the engine... I thought the counterbalancer is on the right.... Left has magnet, stator coil, starter clutch, countershaft.... My money is on one of these damn things... all of which are easy to fix. Right side has crank trigger, counterbalancer clutch, oil pickup... that $800 is better spent on another bike and part this one out if it is the balancer.
Cool.
Srinath.
The counterbalancer is in front of the crankshaft, same length, thus has bearings left and right.
Though you are right that the damage is right more often than left, because it is often caused by a blocked oil path after changing the clutch cover gasket.
OK, so this is where I am at right now:
I had planned on bringing it to the dealer today, but one of the techs quit on friday, so I'm SOL there :guns: :guns: :guns: . The parts guy said that they won't touch anything older than 10 years anyhow (they didn't tell me that on the phone):x . The other suzuki dealer in the twin cities that I know of won't touch a bike that old either :x .
I found a place that will look at it, and I'm thinking I'm just going to pay the diagnostic fee ($75). I want to ride again, and I am not 100% confident in my diagnostic abilities.
It will take them about a week to finish the diagnostic, so I'm going to spend that time figuring out my options and planning for the worst-case scenario.
dgyver, when is very soon? Can you give me some more details about the engine that you will be looking to sell?
Is there anyone in the twin cities area that might be interested in helping with some major engine repair?
I would take it to another place than the dealer. Sounds like they are guessing too much on it being the balance shaft bearings. There are so many things that can cause the engine to run rough. If they are willing to throw out a guess like that. I imagine they are just looking to take your money. Find someone that seems more honest and with good technical skills.
actually, thats just the estimate they gave me IF the problem was the counterbalancer bearings. They wanted me to bring it in so they could look at it and give me a more exact estimate.
Quote from: goatdgyver, when is very soon? Can you give me some more details about the engine that you will be looking to sell?
It should be available for sale next week. I will be testing the motor, tomorrow. Well actually today is tomorrow, ok Sunday then. I did not have a fuel supply when I was turning it over and then I broke the key again, hence my "hot wire" post. I get back with more details later Sunday.
Well, I heard back from the place I brought my bike. The tech there thinks that it is just a carb problem. I certainly hope he's right. I'm still a bit worried about the clanking I heard, but I'm going to go with the assumption that the tech knows more than I do.
I'm trying not to make this a rejet question, but what have peoples experiences been with carb work? I think I could do a rejet myself (from the tutorial I looked at), but I know some people who have worked on their carbs for months only to end up paying the dealer money to fix it when they gave up (and thats saying a lot, my friend NEVER pays someone else to fix stuff). He and other people have said that it would be easier to just pay someone else to do carb work, unless you have done it before.
They want $225 + parts to dissasemble, clean and rejet. Is that reasonable? (the $75 diagnostic fee gets applied to this though, so its more like $150 beyond what I already owe them)
Sorry to make this sound like the same old, but I couldn't find any posts on carb work (not rejetting) and I don't know enough to know the difference.
Thank you all (also in advance) for your help
now that i think a little harder about it, how can it be carb problems? I know that my bike needs a rejet (has a full yoshi exhaust; I don't think it was rejetted) but wouldn't that have been a gradual thing?
This happened all of a sudden. It has been running fine since I bought it and all of a sudden started vibrating one day.
Can someone explain this to me? I don't understand. Thanks
For $225 they better at least give you a kiss before they screw you. It is possible a jet came loose and causing it to run rough but doubtful if they have not been worked on recently. They normally get stuck from the varnish build up from the gas.
There is really nothing to rejetting a carb...2 screws to remove the bowl and there are the main & pilot jets. Unscrew them and screw new ones back in. Takes about 10 minutes.
How much more difficult is taking apart the carbs to clean them and rebuild them? More importantly, how easy is it to screw it up (not the rejet, the rebuild)
I'd be happy to help with the rejet; I'm in Minneapolis. But really, the best time to rejet is when your bike is mechanically sound. If there are problems with the ignition system, or mechanical problems, then it will only be confusing trying to adjust the jetting.
Regarding the clunking sound, there's really no way that improper jetting should cause a metallic clunking sound!
Question for the experts here: if he had vapor lock, and tried operating the starter, would that explain the clunking?
Regarding the way it is running now (rough at 4k+ RPMs), if you were working around the synch screw, and bumped it, then that could cause vibrations. If all you touched were the plugs and the wires, then I'd start there: maybe the insulator cracked in one plug when you had it out, and at higher RPMs, the spark is fat enough to jump through the crack, and short. Or maybe there is a similar marginal condition with one of the plug wires.
I'd start with a new pair of plugs, and see what happens. If that doesn't produce anything good, then you could try testing the plug wires. For example, turn the idle up, and run on only one cylinder (for example, the right cylinder). Try first one plug wire, and then the other on that same cylinder and coil. If no problems are found, then repeat on the left cylinder and coil. I haven't actually had to do this to test plug wires, but if you can get the bike started on one cylinder, then I think it would work.
You mentioned that one plug wire is loose, so I'm suspicious about an intermittent short there. If you watch it at night, you may even be able to see if the spark is shorting at the sparkplug boot on one wire.
Well, I re-learned an important lesson today. The guy that answers the phone doesn't always know what the hell he's talking about.
I called back to get this cleared up, and the guy on the phone says the same thing he did earlier. Then he offers to hand the phone to the tech that looked at my bike and I agreed. Here's what really happened:
my bike is running lean. I knew that already. a rejet was/is on my to do list. I hadn't looked at it much yet, but I guess its worse than I thought. the settings haven't been touched since it came off the line.
The tech started my bike and let it run for a while. The problem wasn't obvious (except for the fact that it was running lean) so he had the service manager (the guy I had been talking to) call me to ask for some details (which the guy never mentioned). I answered the questions and the tech said that he would take my bike for a ride tomorrow and get back to me.
So, I guess that I'll find out later (tomorrow, I hope). I'm just hoping that this makes a fool of me and it ends up being something simple (then I can take the hit to my pride and more importantly, I can ride again with minimal injury to the wallet).
My bike does start and run (like a sick horse, but it does run) on one cylinder, so that technique of checking the wires/coils would work. Yeah, I forgot to put one of the wires back on when I changed my plugs :oops: . Thats how I found that one out :oops: :oops:.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I get the feeling this might not be over quickly, and I appreciate the help.
My wish has been granted. The tech says theres nothing mechanically wrong with my bike. If the counterbalancer bearing was shot, there would be more noise. He attributes the problems I'm having to bad plug wires and carb issues (needs a rejet).
So, now that I don't have to do any major engine work I can do some of the other things on my list.
Replace front tire (the rear one was practically new when I bought the bike but the stock tire (bridgestone excedra G)) I would like stickier tires, but I'll do that when I replace both tires.
rejet carbs. I know that there is someone else in the twin cities who is going to rejet. perhaps we will have a "rejet party" :lol: :cheers:
Anyhow, now that my pride is limping along one one leg I can ride again without such a big hit to my wallet. I leaned more about my bike, too. I'd say the diagnostic fee was worth it considering I was going to replace the engine otherwise :oops:
Thanks again everyone for all your help.
Glad it worked out for the most economical way. We all have to learn one way or another.
The normal reason folks here rejet, is if they have aftermarket air cleaner and/or exhaust; or else to speed warm-up (pilot) and to improve off-the-line performance (jet needle). If your air cleaner and exhaust are stock, and the bike is running OK at idle, but poorly at half-throttle, then I think it is more likely that it is lean up-top due to crud in a main jet or needle jet.
It may just need a cleaning. It's a miracle if it works at all after 11 years with no carb cleaning.
OK main jets are huge... probably wont get crudded up, the needle cant get crud up either. It has no hole... its a needle... Emulsion tubes can get some crud, but usually its too high and s`doesn't get crud in it.
Cool.
Srinath.
I have a yoshi full exhaust and the carbs were never rejetted. I picked up my bike today and it sounds like its running on one cylinder. It didn't sound like that when I brought it in, but I blame the plug wire boot. My bike has been running lean since I bought it.
I am going to replace the plug boot, rejet the carbs (and get a new air filter, too) and go from there.
If the new plug wire solves 90% of the problem, I think that adjusting the pilot screws is a good next step. The GS comes stock in Canada and other lands with larger pilots, but you can effectively increase the flow through the pilots with just their adjustment screws. If you try to adjust and run out of travel, then you'll know that you need to change at-least the pilots.
The "full" GS-rejet also involves shimming the needle, which supposedly improves performance of roll-on from a stop; and increasing the main jet, which should enrichen at wide-open-throttle.
But changing pilots will change everything from start & idle up to WOT, so I'd get that right first.
Hmm, I replaced the spark plug boot and ran the engine for a while tonight. Yeah, carbs my ass. I think I might rejet anyways becuase I already ordered the parts, but I'll bet $50 that what I'm feeling isn't carb related. It is running lean, but its been running lean since I bought it in april.
I don't think that it was ever an ignition problem. It runs the same no matter which plug wire i removed, and for the most part the engine runs fine. I just notice the noise and the vibration. My dad was outside when I was listening to it, and he says that he can't hear what I am talking about. I assume that he (and he does admit this) doesn't know much about engines and never really heard it before this all started. I don't think I am making stuff up, but I suppose it might be possible.
So I'm pretty much back to square one. I took a movie of my engine running tonight. My sound card isn't working, so I don't know how well the sound was recorded but here it is (http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~trflink/engine_noise.mov).(sorry, large file)
I am feeling a lot of vibration above 5k. I don't feel it in the handlebars, mostly in the seat behind the gas tank. I am also hearing a loud noise that seems to be coming (well, it seems loudest anyhow) from the lower right front (on the right side toward the front tire)) It sounds kinda like something is vibrating really fast or something might be grinding (engine does have oil) I thought it might be the chin ferring (one of the mounting screws broke off) so I removed the whole ferring. no dice. The noise is still there.
I think I'm going to start by retorquing bolts and adjusting the pilot screws this weekend. Specifically the engine mount bolts and the bolts on the exhaust. Any other thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to take this engine apart or replace it, but I get the feeling that I'm headed in that direction.
OK maybe the synch screw or spring or somethign has fallen off leaving the 2 carbs wildly out of synch...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: goatI'm going to start by retorquing bolts and adjusting the pilot screws this weekend. Specifically the engine mount bolts and the bolts on the exhaust.
That's a good idea. The sound in that clip was a little too "saturated" (or something) to give a clear idea of the problem, but it does show that the engine runs well.
My first thought - back when you started the thread - was loose exhaust header bolts. But I'm starting to think that you might have a broken engine mounting bolt.
I sure hope it's nothing internal.... :o
Well, I think I found out what was making that noise. Look at what I found in the engine :o :
(http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/457ef253/bc/Files/found.jpg?bfFWI3ABi73KOxtX)
Now I need to figure out what I'm going to tell its owner!
It's friday. I figured that people could use a good laugh. :lol: :lol:
EDIT: I guess people can't see the pic, so I'll have to put it on my normal page once I get home. Oh well, it will still be funny then
I can't see your last pic...?
Ok, now that its hosted properly let's try this again:
I think I have figured out what has been making the noise on my bike:
Take a look at what I found in the engine! (http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~trflink/problem.jpg)
Now I just have to figure out what to tell my neighbor about his missing....
Better late than never, right? I figure its good for a laugh
Yep... Gremlins.... stratching and shaking trying to get out...
Cool.
Srinath.
well, I spent the day trying to fix my bike. It is running again, but the vibration and noise is still there.
I dissasembled, cleaned, reassembled and adjusted the carburators. I haven't replaced the jets yet, but the engine is running better. The throttle cable is too tight, but that is easily fixed.
I also checked every bolt I could find. Engine bolts, exhaust header bolts, valve cover bolts, cylinder head nuts...
I checked my valve clearance, too. Unfortunately I have the same issue with only having a .038 feeler gauge and it was bigger than any of the gaps. I noticed a decent amount of oil had collected in front of the left side front valve. I chalk it up to just leaning that way. The gasket is still leaking, but that will have to wait for another day.
I took out my plugs when I checked the valve clearance, and I learned something. Use the wire type spark plug gap tool. When I replaced my plugs, I had used a disk type tool and the gaps were pretty far off. I recently got a wire type tool so I fixed the gaps.
I also drained my oil and checked the filter. There were no noticeable metal shavings in the oil. There were some metal shavings in the filter, but not many. If something exploded, it isnt obvious.
The vibrations are still there, and the noise is too. The noise seems to be getting louder. Its almost as loud as the exhaust is, now.
My dad still thinks that I am crazy and nothing is wrong with my bike. The tech at the dealer thought so, too. Maybe I am :dunno: . I think that a friend is going to stop by tomorrow to put in his two cents, but if anyone here wants to stop by, listen to what I am talking about and either give suggestions (or join the crowd that thinks I am crazy :) ) it would be appreciated.
I think I am going to rejet when my parts come in the mail and I'll see if that does anything. Other than that, I'm out of ideas besides a rebuild/replace and I really would rather not do either of those.
Quoteplease help me, I have have been off my bike for FAR TOO LONG, I am a SICK MAN and WILL push the nearest squid off his ride soon just to get my fix. :P
Hope you all had a good saturday! Ride extra for me since my bike is still not well 8) :)
OK carb synch ... did the screws or springs fall off, did you check.
Cool.
Srinath.
after looking at this post (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10127) I think I am going to check the cam chain, too. Should have checked while I had the valve cover off earlier today. Oh well, gives me something else to check.
As far as I know nothing went wrong with the carbs. I stripped the hell out of one of the float bowl screws (even with the impact driver. damn that thing was in there good!). The mix is still off but thats becuase I stopped trying to get it perfect since I am going to be rejetting soon.
I checked the cam tensioner, and the camchain and everything seems to be fine. The 21 pin length is less than maximum, and as far as I can tell, the tensioner is working like it should.
I think I'm done for the weekend. I need to replace the cam tensioner gasket before I run it again, and I might tear the engine apart next weekend.
Thanks again for the suggestions. You can be sure that I will be posting if I figure anything out.
Well, I think I am going to be tearing apart my engine this weekend. I am pretty nervous about doing something this major on my own, and I have a few questions about what to replace (other than what might be broken)
93 gs500e with 6600 miles
Is it worth the money to replace the bearings (crank and counterbalancer) even if there is nothing wrong with them at this mileage?
What else should I replace/do? I looked at this post (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8698&highlight=engine+rebuild) and at the moment, I am planning on replacing lots of gaskets (kit from partsnmore) but I'm not sure about replacing piston rings, reseating the valves or rehoning the cylinders.
out of curiosity, if I wanted to have the cylinders bored while I have the engine apart does anyone have an idea what the cost would be? Is it worth the $?
My haynes manual mentions the possibility of inspecting the main bearings without dissasembling the top of the engine. Has anyone ever done this before, and if so is there a place I can find instructions?
Last question: is it a bad idea to rejet my carbs while they are out of the bike? Should I wait to rejet until after I have the noise/vibration thing fixed?
Thanks
I haven't "been there" or "done that" yet, so I'll defer to the pros.
I just wanted to make sure you knew about the GS500 engine gasket set on [THIS PAGE (https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=gs&category=engine)]. I don't know if it's the best price, but it's the only link I've got. (And the shipping is free! :thumb: )
I have not had the thrill of rebuilding a bottom end yet, so I guess I cannot help either. Reading and following the manuals have been the way I have learned.
For cylinder honing, I have seen different prices depending on the area. $10-30 is a common range. Better that the $65/hole I paid for my 79mm, He had a lot more material to remove, 5mm. the honing will help with compression and oil consumption, but you will need to replace the rings to utilize this completely.
As for the gasket sets Kerry linked to, these are the same ones I buy. Great guy to deal with and he ships them quickly. That is the best deal I have found yet. He sells them on ebay for a little less but adds shipping, which ends up costing a few dollars more.
Quote from: goatWell, I think I am going to be tearing apart my engine this weekend. I am pretty nervous about doing something this major on my own, and I have a few questions about what to replace (other than what might be broken)
93 gs500e with 6600 miles
Is it worth the money to replace the bearings (crank and counterbalancer) even if there is nothing wrong with them at this mileage?
What else should I replace/do? I looked at this post and at the moment, I am planning on replacing lots of gaskets (kit from partsnmore) but I'm not sure about replacing piston rings, reseating the valves or rehoning the cylinders.
out of curiosity, if I wanted to have the cylinders bored while I have the engine apart does anyone have an idea what the cost would be? Is it worth the $?
My haynes manual mentions the possibility of inspecting the main bearings without dissasembling the top of the engine. Has anyone ever done this before, and if so is there a place I can find instructions?
Last question: is it a bad idea to rejet my carbs while they are out of the bike? Should I wait to rejet until after I have the noise/vibration thing fixed?
Thanks
Rejetting with carbs off is fine... but how ever do you conclude the motor needs rebuilding.
Vibrations... OK but is one cyl lower significanly in compression than the other, also maybe one spark is bad, It does spark when you test it in the open, but its a little off... you cant see it... but its just enough to not light up the mix completely. Also make sure the carbs are equally synched... did you check that, and in all other terms they are equal. Diaphragms should slide up and down easy and have no rips. Choke sticking in 1 carb also might make it act weird. Hell actually send me your carbs... I'll make sure they are equal in all aspects. Might save you a rebuild. 6600 miles is nothing. 66,000 miles is still OK for this motor.
Cool.
Srinath.
I just can't imagine how this could be carb problems. It's not that the symptoms aren't the same; but this happened so suddenly. My bike was running fine earlier that day, and then all of a sudden I heard a sound like something broke off inside the engine and was bouncing around for a while (left side, I think but I haven't been able to reproduce it) and now there is a bad vibration and an ungodly noise coming from somewhere (not completely sure if its the top or the lower end but i think its the front of the top end)
If you ignore the vibration and the extra noise, the engine is running pretty well. There has been a little bit of a power loss, but not much. If it had started gradually; I would be spending more time on the carbs but they were clean and aside from the fact that the float valves are starting to look a little worn (and will be replaced when i rejet) nothing was out of the ordinary.
The only other things that I can think of that would start up suddenly require engine disassembly to inspect (main bearings, counterbalancer bearings, camchain guide).
I just read my last post, and I sound a little like I'm a hard a$$ who is dead set on rebuilding his engine. :guns: :x :guns: :x :guns: :x :guns:
Let me assure you all, this is not the case. I would be so incredibly happy if I am wrong :) :) :). I would rather not tear my engine apart if I don't have to, I just can't come up with another explination :dunno:
It was my understanding that carb problems don't usually happen suddenly with the exception of physical damage (something breaks off etc.) to the carbs. Do I have that wrong?
OK I read all your posts on this topic... 1 question.... did you check for a intake manifold vacuum leak. Mine also blew suddenly at 16K miles, and it was loud and rattly and sorta like a chainsaw on concrete noise. I luckily was by cycle gear in Hayward... and they tested it and sprayed wd40 and said manifold leak. I ordered the parts at the dealer and got home on it with the choke. Then fixed it and its not happened since. Poor spark also will make it vibrate more, but the loss of power will be huge.
Cool.
Srinath.
I'll have to give that a look before I start taking stuff apart.
Just to make sure that I don't have my head up my @$$, the intake manifold is the place to which the carbs attach, right? What part of it was cracked? If you needed to keep the choke on, how badly was it running?
wow. that was really fast. I ordered gaskets, carb rebuild kits and an oil filter from partsnmore at about 12 last night and they were shipped today. You weren't kidding when you said that he ships fast. I am very impressed.
Hmm... anyone else see something wrong in this picture?
(http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~trflink/pics/alternator_rotor.jpg)
I think I might have found my problem. This explains the clanking, why it stopped, the noise, the vibrations and why I didn't see metal in the oil when I drained it. I'll probably have to replace the stator coil, too. You can't see it well in this picture, but some of the coating has come off.
(http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~trflink/pics/alternator_stator.jpg)
I just hope there isn't much damage elsewhere (I don't have the tools to take it apart farther. need another socket and wrench) I'm thinking that since the metal used in the magnets is softer than the metal used in moving parts and its magnetic (hopefully didn't float around much, just stuck to something), that all I need to do is clean everything, inspect/replace bearings, replace the alternator rotor and stator coil and put everything back together.
At least I know what went wrong. Now I have to figure out what needs to be done to fix it.
EDIT: Whoops, I almost forgot to thank Kerry for his tip on resizing images. Thanks! :cheers:
Yike - that's one for the "mental filing cabinet"!
"CLUNK" + "bouncing around" sounds on left side + no metal in the oil = check the rotor for a demolished magnet
OK, got it!
(Thanks for pursuing this one until you found it, goat!)
----------------------------
Edit: Check the rotor, not the stator.... :roll: (Fixed it)
Impressive picture :o I'm wondering whats wrong with your Suzuki dealer. My local one will repair my 1977 GS400 with no questions asked. Sounds strange to me.
OK You have to find some way of getting all that magnetic shrapnel out of that motor... Its going to stick to steel parts and not get into the oil, and the thing might kill your motor later... Oil goes to the alternator case and back into the motor albeit at a very low rate. Someone here might be able to help you get it all out. BTW the stator looked OK.
Cool.
Srinath.
I'm thinking about bringing everything to a shop that I used to work at. They have a parts washing cabinet that shoots heated solvent at the parts inside. I'm hoping that I can give them a little money to stick my engine parts in there for a while.
After looking at the pic I posted, you really can't see the damage to the stator coil in that picture. I'll take more when I take it out of the engine cover.
OK the motor shouldn't be immersed in a parts washer... I think... solvent might eat the gaskets and O rings... OK well find the right solvent... something like diesel will be OK I think... But you're taking the motor out... Ok try this, clean out the left case cover and its inside first, see how and where the oil passage is, and fillow that wiht a magnetic stick or some... and you might get 99%. Then takeoff the drain pan, and see, If I remember right, oil from the left case, gets back into the pan via a hole in the bottom of the inner case wall. Just gravity return, and they will end in the pan, OK take off the oil pump screen and oil pump and clean them... and you should be fine. Just what I think... ask the experts... I have never opened a motor past the 2 side cases... so no idea.
Cool.
Srinath.
If I intend to keep the bike awhile, I'd be inclined to strip the engine down and check everything. There are too many places for those magnetic pieces to hide and cause mischief down the road. At the minimum, definitely remove the oil sump and clean the pump strainer. :cheers:
Damn! now you have taken away the oportunity of me looking good. As soon as I read "something broke off and rattled around on the left side" I thought "Magneto come loose!"
At least now you know what to do about the vibes.
Get one of these magnetic oil drain plugs, I say.
Markus, you were the 2nd person to reply to goat's original post, 12 hours after he posted it. (That was 2.5 weeks ago!)
Next time, speak up! :lol: :lol:
"Next time pay attention" is what you want to say. In fact I noticed that "detail" only the second time goat postet it these last few days.
I see.... So maybe there is an advantage to making such a long post. And to think I was worried that I was be posting too much..... ;)
Either way I would have had to take the engine apart. I found stuff floating around in the crankcase. Not much, but enough to warrent me taking it all apart and cleaning EVERYTHING. Will post pics later.
ok i think i have the same problem...
i dont hear clunk! but it does sound liike somehting is lose ( on the left side gasket!
where did u check
how hard is it to check
i dont feel like paying 300 dollars to fix it
i hope i dont have the same problem :(
hah sry :) at least u found the problem
It was immediately obvious when I took off the left cover. I don't have my manual in front of me and it wasnt the first thing I did, so don't quote me on this, but I THINK you can just take the cover off with the engine in the frame. Just a matter of removing all the bolts and taking it off if my memory isn't off tonight. I would reccomend checking a haynes or clymer manual first though.
You can take it off with the engine in the frame. You have to drain the oil, though (maybe leaning it over is sufficient), and you will need a new gasket.
alright... im just going to leave it and get it worse....
lol :)
i hate all things with motors... ill just give up :guns: :o
Here is a better pic of the stator
(http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~trflink/pics/alternator_stator2.jpg)
you can see that one of the fins broke off. I could probably bend it all back and re-use it but I am choosing not to,
Quote from: seshadri_srinathLeft side of the engine... I thought the counterbalancer is on the right.... Left has magnet, stator coil, starter clutch, countershaft.... My money is on one of these damn things... all of which are easy to fix. Right side has crank trigger, counterbalancer clutch, oil pickup... that $800 is better spent on another bike and part this one out if it is the balancer.
Cool.
Srinath.
Hey Kerry... I guessed right... OK sorta... He say left... I say magnet, stator coil and starter clutch.... close enough for sitting 1/2 way across the country ... :lol:
Cool.
Srinath.