I have never really been instructed on exactly how to glaze-bust but have done it 3 or 4 times in the past when replacing rings with no apparent problems relating to wear or oil consumption. On each occasion I used the sprung three-legged tool in a power drill, I just ran it up and down the cylinder a few times, dry, without any oil until I got the nice dull grey finish along the cylinder wall that you see with freshly rebored and honed cylinders. The original 45 deg`honed cross-hatching was still visible on each occasion. Then, and this is the tricky bit I borrowed a bore-scope from work and measured the cylinder diameter in 3 places, top, middle and bottom at 90 deg` intervals to give 12 readings which I then compared to the maximum allowable figure stated by the maker for the clinder diam` to ensure they were still within tolerance, on each occasion the process removed between 0.0005" and 0.001" of metal. As I said before I dont know for certain if this is the correct or recognised way to glaze-bust or not and will stand corrected, but I will say the method worked for me without any apparent or adverse effects on wear or oil consumption. It is however absolutely vital that the cylinder is as clean as possible afterwards as the dust generated is highly abrasive and will accelerate piston/cylinder wear if its not all removed. If its any help to you, the maximum diameter for the cylinder bore as quoted in the service manual is 74.08mm or 2.916"