neutral light?

[bhouse1587]

ok so my neutral light stays on all the time now and i dont know why... when the kick stand is down it works correctly.. im thinking its probably s short somewhere or a bad ground or something.. i have an 04 gs500f any one have any suggestions or what it might be??

[bulletproofcycle]

This exact problem happened to me on my 2004 GS500F.

it was also accompanied by running on one cylinder!

This is what you have to do:

1) Remove gas tank (make sure fuel shut off on tank is rotated to the off setting)
2) Disconnect all connectors you can see including wires going to each ignition coil
3) Spray with contact cleaner (electric parts cleaner), the key is to cleam each connector until they are all brass colored.
4) Make sure wires going to the ignition coils are back on snugly, otherwise crimp them slightly to make more tight
5) Re-connect all disconnected connectors and make sure they are all seated firmly.
6) Put key in ignition and turn to on but do not run engine! Make sure all lights function properly
7) Repeat cleaning process is problem continues

This should fix the problem! Cheers

[sledge]

Here is a link to  a wiring diagram, it for an `E`not the `F` so there may well be some slight differences but as far as I know there were no mods between models to the neutral light or switch so there is no reason to expect any changes to the wiring.
http://www.gs500e.co.uk/wire.jpg
One side of the neutral bulb is permanantly live with the ignition on (the orange wire). It relies on on a connection to earth via the neutral switch to make the circuit and illuminate the bulb. With this in mind I would do the following tests.....
First find and identify the diode pack, its under the seat and behind the brake reservoir, its like plug-in fuse but with 3 terminals. Then remove the left side-panel and look for a single blue wire and connecter. With the ignition on and the bike in neutral, pull the connector apart. If the bulb stays on there is a short to earth either on the blue/black wire from the bulb to the diode pack OR on the blue wire from the the diode pack to the connector. If the bulb does go out the blue wire between the connector and switch is shorting out, OR the switch itself is faulty. To test the switch put the bike in neutral, there should be a circuit on the blue from the switch, to earth, and it should go open-circuit when the bike is put in gear. Any potential earth faults in the wiring are likely to happen where the loom moves, such as the steering head area, or at pinch-points where the wiring passes through grommets and into the casings, they are the first places to look for damaged insulation.
Try the above tests first and come back with the results. The method I suggest is by no means the sure fire answer. Looking at the diagram there are several other possibilities that could give rise to the fault you describe...... such as the one bulletproofcycle had. If you have no joy we will have to dig a bit deeper into the wiring.

[sledge]

A question?
When the bike is put in gear and the bulb stays on... is it at normal brightness or does it seem to go dim or flicker??

[John Bates]

Sounds to me like the diode (green wire side) is shorted.  That would explain how the light works correctly when the stand is down.

Pull the diode pack and check it with an ohmeter.

[phire]

I'm now having the exact same problem with my 2005. The first time it happened, it happened after I washed my bike.. The second time... happened after I washed my bike. So, apparently I'm not being careful enough when I wash my bike. Are you telling me I have to remove the gas tank to fix this problem?  BLAH I just filled 'er up!


BTW:  The light goes OFF when the kickstand is down, and when it's in gear the light DIMS. When I had a regular bulb in there it would dim and/or flicker. Now with the led, it just dims.

[John Bates]

HOW TO TEST THE NEUTRAL INDICATOR BULB CKT. WITHOUT A METER.


If you're comfortable working with electricity you'll have no problem with this, otherwise get someone to help who is experienced.

You'll need a short piece of small gauge wire or a paper clip.

It helps to have an extra pair of hands to: hold the temporary wire connections in place, turn the ignition switch, operate the side stand and move the clutch lever.

If a test fails, it must be fixed before going on to the next test.

Find the diode module.  Mine was taped to the wire harness behind the battery (See picture #1).



Remove the tape and you'll see the small black diode module plugged into a white connector. The white connector has three wires, blue-black (bl-bk), blue (bl) and green (gr). (See picture #2)



Unplug the diode module.

A. To check the neutral indicator bulb and assoc. wiring.
    1. Turn the ignition switch on while touching the bl-bk wire to the (-) battery terminal. 
    2. The neutral bulb should illuminate.

B. To check the neutral switch and assoc. wiring:
    1. Turn the ignition switch on while touching the bl-bk wire to the bl wire.
    2. With the transmission in neutral the neutral bulb should illuminate. 
    3. With the transmission in gear the neutral bulb should be dark.

C. To check the side stand switch and assoc. wiring:
    1. Turn the ignition switch on while touching the bl-bk wire to the green wire.
    2. With the side stand down the neutral bulb should be dark.     
    3. With the side stand up the neutral bulb should be illuminated.

D. To check the forward conduction of the diodes:
    1. Plug the diode module into the connector as shown in picture #3.
    (The end pin of the diode module is inserted into the slot for the bl-bk wire.)



    2.Turn the ignition switch on while touching the middle pin of the diode module to (-) battery terminal.
    3.The neutral bulb should illuminate.
    4.Reverse the diode module and follow 2. and 3. above.

E. To check the reverse blocking of the diodes:
    1. Plug the diode module into the connecter as shown in picture #4. (The center pin of the diode  module is inserted into the slot for the bl-bk wire and the end pin will be in the slot for the bl wire.)



    2. With the transmission in neutral and the ignition switch turned on the neutral bulb should stay dark.
    3. Reverse the diode module and repeat steps 1 & 2 to test the other diode.

[93gs500RVA]

John Bates thank you.  Your instructions helped me diagnose a bad diode.

[mr72]

15 years later!!

[The Buddha]

15 years later!!

Hey, sometimes these things take time. But he searched and found and identified and solved his problem, which may have only occurred last week - and not sitting on it for 15 yrs - he's not the OP. Besides, these remarks are sledge's territory. But well, if he had the day off we'll let you have at it.

After 15+ months my GS got fired up and ridden by me and a friend who I hadn't seen in 30 yrs nor spoken to in 20. And after 15 months of it sitting in the other house quarantined LOL, I still had a good battery, left cyl hydrolock, a bad petcock diaphragm which may have been a problem for a lot longer than 15 months filling up the left cyl and likely oil contaminated with gas.

Like I said, these things take time LOL.

Cool.
Buddha.

[mr72]

I didn't end anything negative, just found it remarkable that someone found a 15 year old thread. 

Awesome it helped. Fwiw I find old stuff all the time, I just don't post in those threads because I figure the original crew is probably not around anymore.

[rpmartin32]

I hate to rehash an old thread, but I figured it'd be better than starting a new one.
I have the opposite problem. My neutral light is intermittent. When I first got the bike it would come on sometimes when I would shift to neutral but now it hardly ever comes on when I shift to neutral but still once in a while it will.
I figure it might just need to be taken off and cleaned but I have no idea where the neutral switch is. If anyone could help show me where it's located please? Or if they have other suggestions on what it could be?
2005 GS500 if it matters.

[Armandorf]

Just follow the wire, thin , blue, with a cloth sleeve.
it goes to the neutral sensor, right over the drum gear selector internals on the side sprocket cover.
it should ground the connection.

its basically a pin that aligns at neutral position causing to make contact with the engine block(ground and - terminal of battery)