Author Topic: POR 15 vs Kreem.  (Read 2039 times)

Offline The Buddha

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POR 15 vs Kreem.
« on: October 13, 2006, 08:02:09 PM »
OK experimenting has been done ... verdict is ...
OK no verdict really ... but there are some key similarities and differences.
OK the acid in kreem will eat aluminum, and it will eat anything in its path really, except steel is on its indigestion list ... so very very slow. Your tank has some questionable spots, do POR. If its solid generally but very rusty, muriatic acid is better (kreem acid is Muriatic acid, but I buy it off the street at Ho Depo or Ho's...  :laugh:)
The POR acid will clean out the petcock and other sheite so you can really do it with them in there. And it needs 1 hour to etch it well, so might as well use it to clean out the petcock. muriatic acid will eat up the petcock in an hour, so use duct tape, but 5 mins is plenty ... max 10 mins so duct tape is plenty fine.
They both cause your skin to start burning pretty quick on contact so its a close game, but muriatic acid hurts more sooner.
The Tank has to be dry with POR but not Kreem. You use MEK to remove moisture a good bit. No MEK with POR, but a tank etched with Metal ready (the acid part of POR) has a chemically applied coat of zinc, so it rusts slower, as in overnight it will show spots of rust, but no biggie ... you can dry it with a hair dryer if you want it faster.
With Kreem - Muriatic acid will take it to steel and it will rust so fast you'd have to follow that with Hot water ~2-3 gallons with baking soda and slosh it and toss it and promptly dry with a hair dryer. Then MEK to get the rest of water out.
Here is the biggie then.
Kreem mixes with MEK, and so does POR - they dont say it does though, and it certainly doesn't smell like it ... but it does mix and thin out with MEK/acetone. I'd like to dilute the por where its very very fluid and slap it around in there. But On tanks that have thin walls or questionable spots where holes or patches are there, forget it thick POR is it. POR needs a higher temperature to cure, else it will sit there and run all over. Never even touch it unless its 80+. MEK will cure even in winter. Pretty well (my winter is the 60's so that is OK)
Kreem is designed for tanks in better shape than POR. That should weed out the choices for you. If you ever want to remove it. Kreem is it, and put it on very very very thin. Then you can remove it with MEK and stripper. POR they say cannot be removed and it should typically used where you need thick coating. So I'd expect one of those to never need to come off. Thin POR I am certain can be removed with a acetone, but I'll know for sure tommorow. I need to clean the tail gate of my truck.
BTW POR has lead in it. I'd avoid it if you didn't have to, too much exposure is terrible.
Cool.
Srinath.

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Offline sanjay

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Re: POR 15 vs Kreem.
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2006, 09:08:33 PM »
I would ask you to write the POR15 vs Kreem article on the wiki, but I'm kinda afraid...
'92 GS500.  Sold.
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Offline CirclesCenter

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Re: POR 15 vs Kreem.
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2006, 10:42:14 PM »
You'd have to ask somebody to convert it from Srinath to English.

I can barely read Srinath, so I'm not volunteering.
Rich, RIP.

Offline starwalt

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Re: POR 15 vs Kreem.
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2006, 07:34:53 PM »
It is probably the result of over exposure to chemical fumes...and absorption through the skin...and maybe a little sipping mixed in there.

Most people just sit on the tailgate of their truck and drink beer.  :laugh:
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Offline Mandres

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Re: POR 15 vs Kreem.
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2006, 08:38:01 PM »
Srinath's never been the same since he drank the coke that he used to clean out his tank.    :thumb: 

Offline The Buddha

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Re: POR 15 vs Kreem.
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2006, 09:16:56 PM »
OK I have sorta reversed course ...
The damn POR has left a huge ass lump on the bottom of the tank ... like right below where I did all the cutting and welding ... as in ... the blooming thing didn't stick once it got thick.
Also the acid has no real reusability. They say you can use metal ready over and over (how many times .... no clue) but the very second time it crapped out and never etched it too well or put zinc on it very well.
The POR is on there and its on there like a rock .... and in the wrong freaking place. It even looks like a damn chunk of volcanic ash. If using POR, thin thin thin ... and we are supposed to not be able to put more on a pre existing POR coat ... so take it for what you will. Kreem you do thin and get progressively thicker ... this sheite is one slap and done
So I am fully pro Kreem now. BTW thin POR is OK and the Metal ready is fine too if you have a really pin holed tank ... may be your only option. But all else ... Kreem. Kreem seals pin holes just fine, the problem is that you have to use muriatic acid ... maybe I should try metal ready and follow it with MEK and kreem.
Now I managed to get the damn Sausage on the road in spite of the freaking freezing weather (BTW POR cured just fine in near freezing weather over night ... spilled some here and there and its all hard as a rock or as hard as Pamela anderson's boobies) ...
So anyone that wants to call me whatever ... go ahead ... Its all water off duck's ass. Hey that sounds like texas.
BTW I need to hit people with a stupid tax ... probably charge the people I buy sheite from more than y'all though some (not naming names here) have definetly earned that right here too.
My tail gate in my work bench ... some insane twist of the HOA rules, that is legit, working on the bike isn't. So I do everyhting on the tailgate.
Cool.
Srinath.
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Offline cagedbunny

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Re: POR 15 vs Kreem.
« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2006, 01:31:01 AM »
Without having messed with POR, I've been quite pleased with Kreem.  I did an incredibly ugly Kreem job on my gas tank which was full of rust, and it actually worked perfectly.  I didn't expect to be able to save the tank, but it turned out well.  Easy enough process as well.. just a bit time consuming.

Offline starwalt

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Re: POR 15 vs Kreem.
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2006, 08:39:44 PM »
...
The damn POR has left a huge ass lump on the bottom of the tank ... like right below where I did all the cutting and welding ... as in ... the blooming thing didn't stick once it got thick.

Without pictures....

I had no problems with my POR application...except where I didn't seal up the pinholes where the muriatic blasted them out. I have since JB Weld over them and plan to do a light reapplication when I do the next tank.

No big lumps. Some neat extrusion shapes though. I have a few pics to offer. I took the tank to my dentist and used his oral camera to snap these. They suffer from low light level, but you can make out the details.

You will see that my POR application went fairly smooth and flowed nicely, too nicely since I had crap pocket pin holes to leaking. They did even after being tapped up.

Shot of the pickup screen and the nuts that hold it in and the overflow tube as it passes through the tank bottom.



How about a little closer to the pickup screen?



Shot of the stiffners in the bottom of the tanks. You know, the engineered dents.




I think the use of Kreem or POR depends on the situation. I would have had 100 perfection if I had put JB Weld in the pin holes in the crap pockets. As it is now, pressure tests results in no leaks so....who knows what miles of vibration and gas will do?

Sorry that you had a less-than-perfect POR experience Srinath. Come on down to dgyver's and well drink beer while chipping the POR off the tailgate.  :cheers:
-=Doug......   IT ≠ IQ.

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Offline The Buddha

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Re: POR 15 vs Kreem.
« Reply #8 on: October 16, 2006, 08:56:12 AM »
Update:
POR will dissolve in MEK even after it cures. However it will not re adhere like kreem will. So it fails on that count as well. You put carb cleaner spray in your tank, and POR will come loose. Let it dry out and it wont stick back on.
POR when still a liquid can be diluted with MEK and it will still adhere ... but anyway its on there and like a rock ... I poked it with a screw driver ... so its not going anywhere.
So POR is mostly off the tail gate. My general consensus is ... thin it and use it, and its got decent acid, so a little bit iffy tank will still survive, but thinner the better for it as well.
Yea The damn thing takes so much freaking effort ... no wonder shops totally fook it up. They soimply do not have the time to do it right. Its like dumb work ... you have to do it yourself.
Cool.
Srinath.

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