My first valve check [Part Two: The Adjustment]

[simon79]

First of all,
Let me be the ump-teenth GS 500 rider and owner to say a big "thank you!" to Kerry Burton. I watched his video many times, being it so clear and exhaustive (...and even if I'm a foreigner I can understand 70-80% of the words he says! W00T!! ) I eventually dared to adventure into Valveland.
It's been just a clearance check, not a full valve job, since I unfortunately don't have shims, shim tool and...yes, enough confidence in my mechanical skills

Everything went quite smooth, I was afraid it'd be more difficult; I was done in 1 1/2 - 2 hours (not that bad for a first-timer, huh? ), and after that I took off for a short ride around town. I managed not to destroy the valve cover gasket; after the test ride (not a spirited one, since I was around town I couldn't push beyond 6000-ish rpm) I can notice a very small oil leak on the right side, but it's something I think I can live with without much worrying, for now.

It's not *all* good news, though. My left exhaust valve showed up to be too tight (I couldn't slide the 0.03 mm blade between the cam and the shim), which could be (one of) the culprit(s) for my not optimal fuel mileage--I get no more than 17.5-18 km/litre (=50-52ish MPG), that I consider good but not excellent for a stock 2001, IMHO.
All other three valves seem to be in perfect shape (0.06 mm freeplay).

Once I'll have all valves in spec, it might be time (why not?) for a carb check.

 

[georgedickels51]

have you got a link to the kerry burton video?

[Kerry]

[...] a big "thank you!" to Kerry Burton. I watched his video many times, being it so clear and exhaustive (...and even if I'm a foreigner I can understand 70-80% of the words he says! W00T!! ) I eventually dared to adventure into Valveland.

And a big "you're welcome!" to you.    I appreciate the feedback; hearing that the video has been helpful makes it all worthwhile.

My left exhaust valve showed up to be too tight (I couldn't slide the 0.03 mm blade between the cam and the shim)

Only you can determine whether the reduced(?) mileage requires additional action at this point.  Do you remember whether you were able to "spin the bucket" on that too-tight exhaust valve?  If so, you still have some clearance ... and I personally wouldn't worry about it for a while.  If not, consider buying a "test shim" so you can get a definite shim thickness + clearance value.

Once I'll have all valves in spec, it might be time (why not?) for a carb check.

Yes, why not? 

[Kerry]

have you got a link to the kerry burton video?

You can watch the Google video version [HERE].

If you have the patience for a 221MB download, you can get my "official" version [HERE], which includes some extra files that I used to send with the (even-larger-format version of the) video on CD.

[simon79]

OMG!
Kerry "in person" posted into my thread!!!

Anyway, it's been three months since that old post of mine, regarding my first (and only so far) valve clearance check. I haven't performed any more checks on it and haven't been worrying about performance, mileage and the like, since all these parameters seem to be right after all, I can't actually complain about how the little twin is behaving.
I can remember, though, that I could actually spin the bucket under the tight valve. I felt it harder to spin compared to the other three, but it spun.

[Kerry]

OMG!
Kerry "in person" posted into my thread!!!

Relax - I'm just a "regular Joe" like you.    I learned about doing the valve clearance stuff from reading the manual, reading GStwin, looking at diagrams, thinking it through, and just doing it a few times.  The video came about because I just happened to have a video camera and a free afternoon!

Anyway, it's been three months since that old post of mine

Oops - I didn't notice that little detail! 

I could actually spin the bucket under the tight valve. I felt it harder to spin compared to the other three, but it spun.

Cool!  Give it a few thousand kms and check it again. 

[simon79]

Anyway, it's been three months since that old post of mine

Oops - I didn't notice that little detail! 

No problem at all

I could actually spin the bucket under the tight valve. I felt it harder to spin compared to the other three, but it spun.

Cool!  Give it a few thousand kms and check it again. 

It all happened 2000 kms (=1200 mi) ago, so it might be the right time to check it again: cold temperatures are keeping me from riding these days (), even though I don't mean to garage my bike for good; I want to keep it up and running for quick utility rides into town. (..mhmmm...easy parking... :drool:)
BTW, I can afford waiting a week or two while I take the engine cover off and wait for shims (if needed) to come. (I'm not pretty sure dealers round here have shims on stock )

 

[simon79]

What I'd said and supposed in my previous post here --

BTW, I can afford waiting a week or two while I take the engine cover off and wait for shims (if needed) to come. (I'm not pretty sure dealers round here have shims on stock icon_confused)

was true.
My local Suz dealer doesn't have shims in stock.
So I had to order a new one, in normal conditions it should be here tomorrow (ordered a 2.75 yesterday, in place of a 2.80, for my left exhaust valve) but RIGHT yesterday all truck drivers went on strike nationwide.
Dunno actually if express couriers are on strike too, but motorways are in a mess already. Let's cross our fingers.
In the meanwhile, engine is apart, with a screwdriver stuck b/w camshaft and bucket. Poor little girl

Having no shim tool on hand, I proceeded with the two screwdrivers' "gsJack" method (thank you from across the pond too, Jack ) but I made some scratches with the screwdriver on the cam's back while proceeding. 
Should I be worried about this?
[Note to self: order a shim tool within next 6000 kms ]

[simon79]

Looks like I did it.
Shim arrived today (they're damn expensive here...like 14 €, like 20 US$ But I needed it, so I bought it anyway )
Put new 2.75 shim in in place of old 2.80, new freeplay is 0.06 mm, quite in spec.
All other 3 valves are OK as 2000 kms ago, all of them b/w .06 and .07.
Reassembled everything, pulled choke, turned petcock on PRI, fired it up.
It seems to be allright so far.
But ASAP (probably tomorrow) I'll give it a quick spin into town as a test ride. I must say I'm optimistic.

[metnab]

What I'd said and supposed in my previous post here --
[Note to self: order a shim tool within next 6000 kms ]

You don’t need a shim tool if you have a 6mm Alan key and can grind it like this


You turn the engine forward to open a valve, insert Alan key under camshaft on edge of bucket  and then turn back the engine slightly so that shim will slide out. 

Mike

[Kerry]

Looks like I did it.
[...]
I'll give it a quick spin into town as a test ride. I must say I'm optimistic.

Glad to hear it!  Congratulations!   

[simon79]

>metnab:
Very interesting suggestion!
Thanks a lot.
Just one thing, tell me if I'm figuring out correctly how to put that tool in position:
-turn engine fw till valve is fully pressed down
-put tool in with short, ground tip pointing downwards and pressing onto bucket's edge (like this:    ŻŻŻŻŻŻ|   )
-turn engine slightly back in order to move cam away

Am I right?

>Kerry:
thanks
still have to test ride it, all wish me luck

[metnab]

>metnab:
Very interesting suggestion!
Thanks a lot.
Just one thing, tell me if I'm figuring out correctly how to put that tool in position:
-turn engine fw till valve is fully pressed down
-put tool in with short, ground tip pointing downwards and pressing onto bucket's edge (like this:    ŻŻŻŻŻŻ|   )
-turn engine slightly back in order to move cam away

Am I right?

Turn engine forward Until alan key fits under camshaft and on edge of Bucket but not touching the shim like this “L”  then turn engine backwards so that valve and shim bucket are held open and shim can be removed. This is only a few degree’s
It has to be a 6mm alan key as this is the size required to keep the valve open enough to be able to remove shim, it will also have to be ground like the picture otherwise the shim will foul the edge of the key when you try to remove it.
This is the method used by my local suze dealer after they lost their factory tool, they say this way works better.

[beRto]

I think that's a clever homemade tool! Overall it looks like it might be easier to buy the proper valve shim tool. Mine only cost $20 (Motion Pro knock-off version). I've used mine a couple of times now and it works like a charm. I've also tried the screwdriver method but only ended up scratching buckets.

[simon79]

Ohhhhh....
So I wonder, like this?

|
|   < modified Allen key
|
|
|O  <------- camshaft
 ŻŻŻŻ
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
    ^^   
edge of bucket

 

I'd like to get a more suitable tool when I have to fiddle with valves again, b/c with the 2 screwdrivers I succeeded but also scratched up the cam's back a bit (a thing I'd rather avoid next time )

[metnab]

Yes that it
The main advantage, (apart from the cost/availability of a 6mm alan key)
Is that it locks the valve open and gives you two hands free to fiddle out the shim and catch it before the slippery little F$%ker vanishes down the timing chain hole.   

Mike

[mattress]

Lots of great information in here guys!  This makes me want to run outside and do mine!

Can you guys suggest a place to buy the clearance check tool? 
I think I heard somewhere that the ones required for our valves are kinda hard to find...

Also, where can I get the new shims if mine need replacing?


And one final, off topic question.  I'd like to adjust the rear shock on my bike, but I don't have the toolkit or the spanner tool...  do you guys suggest a place to buy this tool?

Thanks so much for the info guys!

[Flywheel]

If you have a  long (14"-16") flathead screwdriver, then you can use it as a lever to adjust the collar; this works on a Katana 600 shock, too, which is much more difficult to access when installed on the gs500.

[simon79]

>metnab:
Ok thanks, now I see that I'd had a brain fart understanding your tool at first
BTW, as Kerry points out in his video, first thing to do after you've put the cam/valve in place and before fiddling with its shim, is stuffing a rag in the timing chain hole.
I don't ever wanna find myself in that situation. Better safe (and paranoid ) than sorry.

>mattress:
There's a Buy It Now these days on the Bay for the valve bucket decompressor tool. 17-something US$ + shipping IIRC.

[Kerry]

Can you guys suggest a place to buy the clearance check tool? 
I think I heard somewhere that the ones required for our valves are kinda hard to find...

Also, where can I get the new shims if mine need replacing?

Answers to both questions can be found in the two back-to-back posts starting HERE.