Author Topic: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.  (Read 37466 times)

Offline The Buddha

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #20 on: May 22, 2008, 02:33:12 AM »
Throttle cable or choke cable will be my first guesses.
Cool.
Buddha.
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Offline stompy

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #21 on: May 22, 2008, 07:53:59 AM »
sorry for being the whole "n00b" thing and all but can I get a better explaination if
1. Air intake leak/missing O rings in vacuum circuit.
Test with wd40, locate it, confirm it, and replace the bad part. Intake manifold boots, O rings, caps etc etc going bad can do this
thanx
Stompy 0_o

Offline beRto

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #22 on: May 22, 2008, 03:13:56 PM »
sorry for being the whole "n00b" thing and all but can I get a better explaination if
1. Air intake leak/missing O rings in vacuum circuit.
Test with wd40, locate it, confirm it, and replace the bad part. Intake manifold boots, O rings, caps etc etc going bad can do this
thanx
Stompy 0_o

:laugh: It's not just you, he's speaking "Buddha"

What this means is that a leak in the air intake system will result in lean running. A lean bike will idle high.

There are two common sources of an air leak:
  • cracked/leaky the intake manifolds, carb caps
  • missing o-rings in the top of the carbs

To determine if the intake manifolds or carb caps are leaking, spray WD-40 around the intake boots while the engine is running. Listen for changes in the idle speed. If the idle speed changes, the WD-40 is entering though a leak point. You must find this leak point and correct it.

To determine if the carbs are missing o-rings, you will have to dismantle the carbs and check visually. Missing o-rings is very common following a carb rebuild. There is a specific o-ring in the top of the carb that causes this problem. Search the forum for a marked-up diagram that specifies the correct o-ring (there are a few related threads).

Hope this helps! :)

Offline stompy

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #23 on: May 23, 2008, 07:32:32 PM »
AWSOME!!! thanx for the info.

Offline jt_234

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #24 on: June 01, 2008, 04:34:41 PM »
1/8 th of an inch ... that is like 3-4 mm. Bloody hell, they should be under 1mm off.
2 mm is one jet size. You gotta get them under 1mm off. Top of the bowl and no more.
Then synch is to equate the butterflies, not for floats. The butterflies should be open the same and of course they gotta move together, which they do always.
Then idle screw isn't counted for turns, only air screws are.
You should get these things sorted before going on your test ride, if the theory doesn't work, in real life it definetly wont work. Heck, I have seen well setup bikes have all sorts of trouble in real life.
Cool.
Buddha.

Thanks man.  Got moved.  Got the butterflies adjusted within a 1mm.  Running very good now.  Haven't started on the valves yet, it'll be another couple weeks before I can get started on those.

Regarding the idle screw, I was only confirming the point that it wasn't set too high.
:cheers:
JT
'02 GS500

Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy. - Isaac Newton

Offline The Buddha

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #25 on: June 02, 2008, 05:03:00 AM »
What did you adjust the butterflies to 1mm for ... that was float level ... sheesh ...
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Offline jt_234

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #26 on: June 16, 2008, 04:08:40 AM »
What did you adjust the butterflies to 1mm for ... that was float level ... sheesh ...
Cool.
Buddha.

 :laugh:  Nah, that was for the floats.  I misspoke (mistyped?).
:cheers:
JT
'02 GS500

Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy. - Isaac Newton

Offline Occsebogyo

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #27 on: June 16, 2008, 01:09:02 PM »
HEllo!

Could you send me the sizes (in mm) of the steering berings? The lower and the upper has the same size?

Thx!
Occse

Offline The Buddha

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #28 on: June 16, 2008, 02:50:50 PM »
The part numbers are 32005X and 32006X if I recall.
25X47X15, 30X55X17 if I remember. I will check and post tonight.
Cool.
Buddha.
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Offline Occsebogyo

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #29 on: June 16, 2008, 03:04:40 PM »
If I want to change them will I need anything else, or just the bearings? Do you have any pictures about how to install the new? Special tools?

Offline The Buddha

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #30 on: June 19, 2008, 01:12:56 PM »
Threaded rod with plates, c clamp or plain old socket or old bearing race and hammer ... in increasing order of redneckiness.
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Offline Occsebogyo

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #31 on: June 19, 2008, 08:44:11 PM »
I've got 32005JR and 32006JR bearings. Is there anything difference in thos what U sad and what I got? I couldn't got that to pieces, so it can be weird for me that one bering is smaller than the other, and the inner diameter isn't the same either. Is it okay?

Offline chromecrusher

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #32 on: June 21, 2008, 07:31:40 AM »
can't get my bike tp idle under 1500 rpms.  Any lower and it will drop to 800rps and soon stall.  Just can't figure it out.

Offline beRto

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #33 on: June 21, 2008, 02:29:36 PM »
can't get my bike tp idle under 1500 rpms.  Any lower and it will drop to 800rps and soon stall.  Just can't figure it out.

Out of spec valve clearances may make it difficult to hold a proper idle. How long has it been since your valve clearance check? It should  be done every 4000 miles (6000 km).

Offline The Buddha

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #34 on: June 22, 2008, 12:39:22 AM »
I've got 32005JR and 32006JR bearings. Is there anything difference in thos what U sad and what I got? I couldn't got that to pieces, so it can be weird for me that one bering is smaller than the other, and the inner diameter isn't the same either. Is it okay?

32006JX is lower - its a 30X55X17 I think.
32005X (maybe JR is a manufacturer code ??) is a 25 X 74X 15 if I recall.
Dude these bearings prolly have been designated with this part number since 1930 ... you can buy them in africa with this number and they are the same. I remember buying 6303 and what not in india. My dad would send me on these errands to buy what I thought was super cryptic BS ... only to find out that all over the world its the same. I have bought 520 chains, 130X90/17 tires etc etc wondering how these people know what my dad needs, I only told them 520 ... but its all worked right. Post a pic if you like and I'll confirm.
Cool.
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Offline chromecrusher

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #35 on: June 22, 2008, 02:40:07 AM »
Its time, thanks berto

Offline The Buddha

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Re: Idle hovering - trouble shooting guide.
« Reply #36 on: June 22, 2008, 02:25:04 PM »
Out of spec valves will usually start giving trouble just at startup. It will start and 5 seconds later it will flutter and want to die. You need to keep revving it to stay alive. Then 5 mins of that and when its plenty hot, the thing will run well enough to make you dismiss it as a freak incident. A few 100 times later you'd decide to do somehting about it. Take apart the carbs and find nothing.
Valves that are too tight but more than 0 will usually get too tight to run as its warming up, and when fully hot will have just the right clearance to run well. When hot, valve clearances increase, but as they are warming up they can decrease, to under 0.
So chromecrusher, you may have really really tight valves making it for very very hard starting and a fluttery idle all the time, but tight valves = startup troubles out the wazoo. In fact tight valves will burn I have heard, I believe they may on a 4 valve bike where it can run with one valve hanging open, but a 2 valve 2 cyl will usually never burn a valve cos 1 is open.
Cool.
Buddha.
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