New GS, engine seized. Diary of Rebuild/Testing - LOTS OF PICS!!!!!

[Fry]

A pie cut would work there./

[utgunslinger13]

Pie cut?  Is that what its called?  It won't affect anything strength wise doing that will it?

BTW, you see that large spot thats just SCREAMING for some industrial grade speaker grill? lol 

[Fry]

If you send me some exact card board templates and shipping costs I'll cut them out and mail it to you for free.

I'd make the Pie Cut (Thats what I call it) before the weld, no need in messing with the factory weld.

[utgunslinger13]

I definetly won't allow you doing it for free, but once I get to that point I'm sure we can work something out!

So you think I should move out a couple inches from the factory weld?  Is that for strength issues or just to stay away from those welds?

[utgunslinger13]

Now this might be the silliest question I've asked, but I haven't had much luck in searching online.  Where or how would I find a place the sells metal that I can use to construct the mounts for the subframe?  Some C-chanel or some 3/16ths flat steel?  Do I have to buy online or is there some place that sells in a store like Home Depot or Tractor Supply (which I don't know if we have out here in AZ)?

[Fry]

I'm not worried about getting money for the mesh, I got it for free and it would take me about a half hour or so to cut out what you need, when your ready let me know.

Without being there I'm gonna have a hard time offering any advice on how to mount it but I'll give it a shot.

I'd make a set of 4 Triangular Ears out of Sheet Stock. The triangle points would be rounded over instead of pointy. On the single rounded point of the triangle you want it big enough to drill a hole through and still have enough material for strength and accommodating the flange of the bolt this bolt will bolt to the sub frame. Next I would cut a slice down the length of the stock frame stubs so you can slot in the Triangle Ear being able to weld it on 4 sides of the stk rail stubs.

As for the factory weld I'd leave it alone and use a small pie cut further up to bend the rail and fill that in with weld and or patch plate.

Lowes does sell metal, though their supply isant all that big.

[utgunslinger13]

I'd make a set of 4 Triangular Ears out of Sheet Stock. The triangle points would be rounded over instead of pointy. On the single rounded point of the triangle you want it big enough to drill a hole through and still have enough material for strength and accommodating the flange of the bolt this bolt will bolt to the sub frame. Next I would cut a slice down the length of the stock frame stubs so you can slot in the Triangle Ear being able to weld it on 4 sides of the stk rail stubs.

Wow, it is either to early in the morning or I'm just not able to picture what you mean.  Would you mind describing it again or even draw something up for your suggestion?

Thanks!

[Fry]

This is a horrible Paint Sketch but hopefully it will illustrate my idea a little better, heck it might not even a good choice, just throwing out an idea.

[utgunslinger13]

The only problem with that is that the upper part of the subframe has the same inner width as the upper stock subframe.



The lower is slightly different but it was difficult to take a picture.



I'm thinking that some flat plate would be the best option, but how thick do you think I would need for the strength required?

[Fry]

I thought that might be a problem.

One thing I would like to see is the use of 2 pieces of plate steel to create a mount, and not just one piece welded to the inside of the stock rails which the sub would bolt to.

I would weld a shaped piece on the inside and outside of each stk. frame stub, something stylizied and have the sub frame slot into that then run a bolt and nut through it.

As for metal maybe 1/8th or 3/16th thick would definitely do it.

[utgunslinger13]

well 3/16ths is the thickest my welder can weld so thats good.  I think i agree with you on a flat plate on the inside and outside for strength but for aesthetics thats the last option lol  Would the single plate on the inside not be enough?  What about if I box it in after? Connecting the upper and lower and each side together?

Another bike on the forum was doing the exact swap here and I'm wondering if thats the best mounting procedure?  The following pictures are from GSTWIZZLE's build:





Any ideas on the mounts?  Something easier? Something stronger? Where might I pick up some of this "C channel" stuff?

[Fry]

I suppose that would be strong enough, you should be talking with him as he has done this already. To me and it's purely an uneducated opinion just having 1 piece to attach it looks like it's an after thought bolted together in the quickest manner. Now I can only imagine how much fab work that guy has into it, along with the design stage so I'm giving him full credit cause it aint easy but for me and my time I would make something that looks/is more substantial and stylized.

I guess a single plate/c=channel would be enough as there isn't much Lateral forces being applied, mostly vertical and downward forces in that area but if it were me I would fashion some type of sandwiched style mount. You could build the mounts to mimic the Buell rails shape somewhat and have minimal boxing to do if you even wanted to.

[Fry]

The moree I look at those pics the more I like them, though I'd use Boxed steel rather than C-Channel. I'd also make the ends of each connecting piece the same shape as the sub frame ends, that way it will blend in, you can do this by making a card board template of the Buell piece, cut 2 out  for each connecting rail and weld them on each side of the boxed steel, then just box the top and bottom of this.

[utgunslinger13]

I do agree the boxed portion seems better, I'm just not 100% in my welding skills so I'm trying to figure a way to hide my welds as much as possible lol  I'd also really like to keep the "homemade" portion hidden as much as possible so in that aspect it has me leaning towards a large box being constructed internally to the subframe and just bolting the subframe to that box.

Its like buying a diamond, size color clarity price.  You can usually have 2 or 3 but not all 4! lol

[utgunslinger13]

So after a long needed vacation to vegas and a newly bought ring, I proposed to my girlfriend of 2.5 years on top of the Eiffel Tower and I'm now engaged!   



But vacation is over and back to reality.  I finally got a little more work done on the bike, and got some of the mounting plates started.  Please excuse the horrible welds, I'm still learning.



Here is a back view, but I think I'm going to cut out and redo the bottom mounts and change their angles:



Upper mount view:



Lower Mount again:

[utgunslinger13]

I also got my parts back from the machinst after some nasty words being said on both parts.  Over a month to hone and fix a part of the mounting surface, he didn't switch out the rings like I asked and 2 missed meetings to drop off parts  is all I have to say to him.  On the upside it only cost $25 

Cylinders and pistons:


Down the cylinder, pretty cross hatches:


The mounting surface he welded and "cleaned up":

[DoD#i]

On the upside it only cost $25 

Good - cheap - fast - pick no more than two, and possibly only one.

As for the welds, I'd strongly suggest that you grab some scrap and practice welding on scrap - this is very much one of those skills where practice makes perfect (or at least lack of practice makes imperfect) and it's good to get the really bad ones done on scrap where it does not matter.

[utgunslinger13]

I'm planning on cutting out the bottom plates and change the angles a little to center the bolt hole a little more.  Part of the problem is that I have a handheld mask so I'm trying to weld one handed.  They are strong just REALLY UGLY.  I'm going to end up grinding them all down and puttying them up just to look better.

[DoD#i]

Sheesh - those are not meant for welding with - those are for observers. Spend $22...
http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/25066.html

or $58...
http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/SS2-0801.html

[utgunslinger13]

yeah I agree, but it came with the welder and I was in a hurry to start welding and didn't want to drive out for another mask just to start welding.  I am getting better with it and have started noticing different things as far as speed, control, and have been able to get quite better welds than the first time.  I'm really starting to enjoy myself! Now I just need to figure out the best way to cut/grind smooth metal since I think I've burnt my dremel out!   And I now have a blister on my finger from using a hand file (I think its called a double something bastard lol).

Here is a top view of where I was sanding tonight:


View from the inside:


View from the outside;





And in order to sand this, then refill low spots with more weld, then resanding the high spots took me about 3 hours tonight.  There has to be something relatively inexpensive that I can buy/rent to help speed this process up?


Thanks,

Nick