Author Topic: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh  (Read 18759 times)

Offline bombsquad83

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Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« on: February 12, 2012, 11:53:35 PM »
Well...my question in the General Area was turning into more of a build thread, so I thought I would move on to here.  Plus now I have pictures :).

I got my 1993 GS500 back in August last year, and I've been working on it ever since.  I've done a lot of work to refresh it from it's neglected state. 
EDIT: Forgot to mention she only has 6,3xx miles :).

As I said in my other thread, I've done a lot of work already.  It started out with a 145 main jet, so I'm thinking the previous owner had a lunchbox or something on it.  Exhaust seems stock.  I'm now running the stock airbox with a new OEM filter and 125 mains and 40 pilots, 3 turns out.  I discovered it already had progressive springs when I did the fork seals.

Update 3/26/12
Running very weak in the left hand cylinder.  LH cylinder dies with choke, this explains the RPM with choke issue.

Update 4/1/12
Rode it around town for 35 miles today.  Runs great once it's warmed up.  I think it's too rich at idle on the left hand cylinder.  Gotta review my carb work.

Update 5/5/12

Fixed my one cylinder choke issue by cleaning the starter fuel jet at the bottom of the float.  Tried again to fix the gas level issue in my float bowls.  Cleaned my old needle valve seats and replaced the new ones that came with the kit.  Several tries at adjusting the float height yielded decent results.  I will be checking my plugs for richness periodically until I'm happy with it.

Update 6/8/2012

Finished the paint, decals, new grips, and tank protector.  Pictures on Page 4 of this thread.

The finished product:


List of things I've done

Carb work
Thorough cleaning of the carbs and replaced all the jets (125 mains, 40 pilots, 1 washer)
Replaced old parts with new OEM jet needles and needle jets, o-rings, gaskets, needle valves, and diaphragms
Replaced Gas seals and T connectors (requires splitting the carbs)
Measured and reset float heights (measured, and checked with clear U-shape tube method)
Replaced all JIS screws on the carbs with SS Socket head cap screws
Made cheap differential monometer and synced carbs

Regular maintenance
changed oil and filter (each Spring)
new OEM air filter
Put on new chain and front sprocket (RK X-ring chain, JT 15T sprocket)
Valve Clearances checked and intake shims replaced, exhaust shims swapped left to right - broken bolt and stripped threads fixed along the way see http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58463.0
Mounted new tires, Pirelli Sport Demon in stock sizes (110/70 F, 130/70 R), and another new rear at 9,500 miles
new battery (guy had one that was too tall and vented on the wrong side...doh!)
another new battery at 9,500 on 5/1/2014 - MotoBatt MBU10 AGM battery
Fork seals 2x - Originally overfilled forks to 99mm
15W fork oil used - filled to 130mm from the top of the tube for Progressive Springs
Replaced one left fork tube due to continuous leaking problems
Replaced all fuel lines and all other hoses (water drain and breather hoses were missing)
Flushed Brake Fluid
Cleaned Gas tank cap vent
Replaced all the missing bolts

New OEM Parts
Used OEM Bar-ends (non present before)
New choke cable
Replaced Brake Lever
Replaced Clutch Lever
Replaced Clutch cable adjuster on the lever side
Replaced Dampers for Tach and Speedo
Replaced one Front Turn Signal Lens
Added all stock reflectors that were missing

Projects
Replaced vacuum petcock with CRF250X petcock (ground down as shown in other threads)
Tank Cleaned out and sealed with POR-15
Cleaned up and repainted battery box
Urethane professional grade automotive paint (Blue Metallic)

Aftermarket Parts/Upgrades
Bikemaster GP Touring Chrome Handlebars
Rear signals (smaller short stalk)
Pro-Grip Gel Grips
Pro-Grip Tank Protector
Hayabusa style Rear pegs to replace stock front pegs (shorter rubber pad for leg room)
Used SV650 front Caliper with OEM HH pads
HEL stainless steel front brake line
MotionPro SV650 style throttle tube (shorter turn)
Hyper-Lites Superbright LED Flashing Brake Lights

To be done
Modified and recovered seat - In progress
HEL stainless steel rear brake line
09' GS500F Stock Rear Shock

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's a picture of how she sits right now...


Today I worked on the tank and prepping the plastics for paint with a buddy of mine.  The tank had a coating of grey stuff that is probably Kreem or something that was flaking off pretty badly.  It also has a big dent a few smaller ones that are needed filling.  Here are some before pics...


Junk on the petcock


Tried putting an old chainsaw chain in there and shaking it around.  Some of the coating came out like wet leaves, but not all of it.  More work to do here...any suggestions?  Need to look around the forum at what others have done some more.


Here are the plastics before prep.  Some scratches needed filling on one side.



And everything after prep. Decals scrapped and sanded off, bondo applied.




Here is a rough sample of the color.  It's similar to the suzuki blue, with a lot of metallic though.  I was thinking about adding a purple ghost pearl, but I'm not sure I want to go there.  Has the potential to be awesome, or just fruity.  What do you think?


And there you have it!  The goal is to get her running like a top before warm temps roll around here in Central Illinois.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2014, 05:29:05 PM by bombsquad83 »

Offline adidasguy

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2012, 01:09:52 AM »
Some gravel and vinegar in the gas thank. That gets into more places than a chain.

Offline Kijona

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2012, 01:59:51 AM »
Or stainless steel BB's from walmart. :)

Offline Kijona

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2012, 02:05:06 AM »
I STRONGLY recommend you read this before putting vinegar in your gas tank: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58650.msg667975#msg667975

Not to dissuade you, though! It's a cheap and incredibly simple way to get all that SHIZAM out of your gas tank.

Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2012, 09:57:49 AM »
Planning on doing a POR-15 treatment.  First I want to get as much of that old coating out as possible.  I will have to try some gravel or bb's or something smaller like that.

Offline mankyle

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2012, 04:17:17 PM »
I haven't tried it yet but my plan of action for my tank (also has old coating that is falling off) is to use the "heavy duty" POR-15 kit with the Tank Strip that is supposed to remove the "old inferior coating".  http://www.por15.com/HD-CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/HDCTRK/.  Its only 6 bucks more and should save you the hassle.

There was a guy on here that did POR-15 tank coatings, maybe he can chime in as to how well the Tank Strip int he POR-15 kit works.


Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2012, 04:49:33 PM »
Awesome.  I will have to give that a try.  Ordering the HD Cycle Tank Repair Kit right now.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2012, 06:55:12 PM by bombsquad83 »

Offline Kijona

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2012, 06:03:03 PM »
This is a quote from that thread that tells you how to remove crap from your gas tank. The guy even posted pictures if you want to see how well the steel BB and vinegar trick works. Please read more in the thread, though.

Hello, all

Away from the computer the last couple of days...

Please, I didn't mean like I wanted advice only from Buddah... Not at all! the only reason I asked him directly is because it seems like he has lots of experience with carbs, from reading some of his posts, and I was curious on his take. I apologize. I truly apreciate everyone's comments and suggestions.

I did put the carbs bodies in boiling water for about 10 minutes. A ring of grime was formed at water level on the pot I used. The carbs didn't come out squeakly clean, though. The outside was still a bit dirty, and some dark areas remained on the inside. I want to boil them again. Should it be longer? I'll also try the pinesol... For how long?

The bike has 11k miles on it.

As for a leak on the boots, I did a WD40 "leak test". No change in revs after spraying it all around the boots. I believe (and hope) that it'll be down to thorough cleaning, and perhaps valve adjustment. I'll be doing the steel bb's (what about pellets?) in vinegar tomorrow for the gas tank. I'll be cleaning the tank petcock with compressed air. The bike was rejetted about two months ago, following the recommendations in this site. The exhaust is stock. When I rejetted, I also changed the valve needles and their seats.

One of my original questions: Can anyone confirm whether or not this carbs have the emmissions circuit or not? The bike is a 2002 (2001, really) but its carbs are not what the Clymer book show. They're more like the previous model year.

Thanks again

No problem. :) All in the name of helping a fellow rider!

I have no idea about emissions circuit but I can offer the following:
Steel BB's (I believe they're plated in nickel but you might luck up and find some stainless steel ones) are your best bet. They're ultra cheap at Wally World. I don't know if they make steel pellets but it seems unlikely. Plus, you get like 5lbs of BB's for the price of what you'd pay for one package of the pellets. Don't use the lead ones! Too soft. Also, DO NOT USE COPPER...obviously.

Step 1: Go to $1 Store and pick up two gallons of whatever vinegar they have (white is best because you can tell how dirty it gets, plus I think it's slightly stronger versus the others)
Step 2: Go to Walmart and pick up a big container of the silver BB's (I'd give you a link but I can't find them on wally world's site).
Step 3: Pour one gallon into the empty gas tank and slosh it around for about 5-10 minutes to ensure you get everything nice and saturated
Step 4: Let it sit over night (or 8hrs)
Step 5: Dump the whole container of BB's into the gas tank
Step 6: Start shaking/sloshing/whatever as long as you possibly can until you're tired.
Step 7: Take a break
Step 8: Repeat step 6. Be sure you turn it every which way and get those bb's really rolling in there.
Step 9: Drain that mucky mess out of there. Leave the BB's in for now.
Step 10: Add the second gallon of vinegar and repeat steps 6, 7, and 8.
Step 11: Drain everything. If it's still REALLY dirty at this point, you might want to rinse it a third time with the BB's. Note: will require more vinegar! :D You can re-use the BB's though. Just put them in a towel and clean them (use the "bowling ball polishing technique"...this will work nicely)
Step 12:  Add a gallon of your favorite, cheap gas and slosh it around AGAIN.
Step 13: Drain and give your lawn mower some "spiked" gas.  :laugh:

Hope this helps! :)

Edit: For step 10 you could probably use half a gallon.  :dunno_black: You decide!

Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2012, 06:23:02 PM »
I might try the steel BB's along with the tank stripper that comes in the POR-15 HD kit if it's not working.  I don't know if vinegar would cut through the old tank coating.

Offline Erika

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2012, 11:14:43 PM »
I've used evaporust in an old gas tank before, it neutalizes rust by binding to the iron in iron oxide and oxidation stops, and turns into something more stable. After I used an old chain and knocked out any loose stuff, I rinsed it well and then let the evaporust sit in the the tank for a day. It is non-toxic and won't hurt your paint job or your bare hands. After that, I dumped it into a bucket and kept the extra evaporust for bolts and other rusty parts. I rinsed and blew some air in the tank to dry it well, then filled it up with gas immediately to prevent flash rust. I was going to have the tank coated, but never did. I think I'll just let it be because that flaking stuff looks like such a pain, and my thought was to check it and use more evaporust when needed... maybe at the end of a riding season. I haven't had to yet, but I'm careful about letting the tank sit for long without keeping it topped off with gas and stable.  You can use it repeatedly until it eventually loses its potency over time(A friend of mine calls it Jesus Juice)

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

Offline willi777

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2012, 07:33:23 PM »
 You can try using electrolysis to remove the rust in the tank- i haven't tried it yet, but read about it on the Katriders board. It's supposed to work pretty well and doesn't cost much, just the price of some washing soda... the thread is here if you wanna check it out
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=95247

Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2012, 10:46:51 PM »
I already have the POR-15 HD system in my possession.  I will post up some pics of the results when I use it.

Offline ninjeff

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #12 on: February 25, 2012, 04:00:16 PM »
Looking good man.

I'll be sure to saunter over to your house when i inevitably break something on my bike.  ;)

Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #13 on: February 25, 2012, 10:38:46 PM »
Looking good man.

I'll be sure to saunter over to your house when i inevitably break something on my bike.  ;)

Sure thing man.  As long as you don't mind wrenching with someone who has learned from trial and error, a manual, and this website.

Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #14 on: March 02, 2012, 06:21:22 PM »
Alright guys.  After 3 hours of working on stripping the old coating off the inside of the tank, I don't think I'm that much closer to being done with it. Got some pictures for ya...

First I got that old chainsaw chain out, then I duct taped the bottom opening off and poured in the POR-strip stuff.  Slushed it around for 15 mins, and then opened it back up.  To my dismay, as I look into the tank while draining I see stacks of the old tank lining like wet leaves piled up in the bottom of the tank.  To make things worse, there were still lots of areas of the tank that still have the old coating on it, and it's flaking off just like before.  I stripped off plenty of the paint on the top of the tank and the bottom while draining, but I don't care because it's getting repainted anyway.

Here is the flakes piled up in the bottom of the tank.  At this point I'm thinking...no way am I going to get all these out.



So...I had a bigger job than I hoped on my hands.  I figured the first step is to get as much of that old loose coating out as I could.  After rinsing the tank out with water a few times, I starting contorting, shaking, reaching in the tank with pliers, and my fingers.  Let's be honest, there was no way I was going to get it all out this way.  I finally figured out how to work smarter instead of harder.  I found some cardboard packing paper and ripped it into a long strip that was wider on one end.  I stuck the wider end down into the tank, and let it unfurl.  Now tipping the tank to one side and then the other, I could catch the flakes as they dropped and the paper would guide them out the filler hole.



 
I got 99% of the flakes out this way. 

Look at all that coating that came out, and it's still half in there!


There was one chunk that came out that was huge.  It was as thick as my thumb and sponge like.


This is where I'm stuck at this point.  Still lots of coating in there that is flaking off.  Seems like the PO did a terrible job at applying the the previous coating, or this is just how these coatings like to die.
« Last Edit: March 02, 2012, 06:28:29 PM by bombsquad83 »

Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2012, 02:34:59 PM »
I read some places about using acetone to eat off the old coating.  Another option someone mentioned was Methyl Ethyl Ketone 10% (MEK) and 90% Xylene.  These are apparently available at paint stores.  Anyone have experience with any of these?
« Last Edit: March 03, 2012, 02:35:36 PM by bombsquad83 »

Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2012, 04:06:44 PM »
Attempting acetone with 2400 bb's this afternoon.  Appears to be doing some good, but it's not the magic bullet.  I will have to do another clean out.  After I rinse a few times I'm going to use a pressure washer in the filler cap to get at what I can.  I might take a run to Sherwin Williams to see if I can get some of that MEK and Xylene too.  More updates to follow...

EDIT: A few patches of the old coating still remain.  I'm going to hit it with another solvent and see if I can get it out.  Still have alot more flakes of the old coating to get out as well.  I'll do some testing to see which solvent actually attacks this stuff the best for the benefit of any others who run into this problem.
« Last Edit: March 04, 2012, 08:39:31 PM by bombsquad83 »

Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #17 on: March 04, 2012, 10:21:51 PM »
One of my main problems in this process is that even if I could get a solvent that really eats this old coating, I couldn't keep it in place around the petcock hole long enough with just duct tape.  Does anyone have an old petcock valve that does NOT work (ripped filter etc.), but could be used to plug up the tank with the stripping agent?

EDIT: I think I might try a cheaper paint stripper again.  The POR-15 stuff is $20 bucks a quart by the time you get it shipped.
« Last Edit: March 04, 2012, 11:45:47 PM by bombsquad83 »

Offline vasama

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #18 on: March 05, 2012, 11:19:55 AM »
Hi, there!

First, I have a bad petcock that you can use. PM me to give me your address. This is a good oportunity for me to give back and get some good karma after I was helped by adidasguy.

Second, I strongly, strongly, suggest that you bite the bullet and simply take your tank to a radiator repair shop that would de-rust and flush it. It should cost anywhere between 35-50 bucks, but they'll do the job in an afternoon and your tank will be good as new. In my opinion, anything else (acetone, vinegar, bb's, etc, etc) is just a big waste of time.

Mauricio

Offline bombsquad83

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Re: Bombsquad's 1993 GS500e refresh
« Reply #19 on: March 05, 2012, 11:30:22 AM »
Thanks vasama!  PM sent.

As far as the radiator shop goes...I'm a bit too far in to do that now I believe.  If rust were the only issue, and I hadn't already bought the POR-15 kit, I might actually start looking for a shop that would do it.  Do you think a radiator shop would be able to get that old coating out completely?   That's really my problem at this point.