R6 Shock - Does it simply drop in place?

[dinkydonuts]

I'm getting confused by all the information on this mod. I see that many people say to get the 2009+ version since it has a smaller reservoir and can be installed through the lower frame.

I watched simplymongoose's video, though, and he shows that you have to grind the lower swingarm for clearance reasons.

Others have posted saying it was a simple swap.

I'd like to go the R6 shock route, simply because a Katana 600 shock that isn't from 1988 will easily run $50. That puts me $20-$30 away from an R6 shock.

[BockinBboy]

I've done this on my bike.  It really is a simple swap.  Grinding is not necessary, mine has about an 1/8th'' clearance.  I've just looked again today (over 7k miles later) and there is no indication they have rubbed against each other. 

The only extra thing you need is the lower bolt, spacer, and nut from the R6 shock.  The spacer will fit right in where the GS spacer was.  The R6 bottom bolt is larger and so you need the R6 bolt and nut - and the R6 spacer as its OD is same as GS but ID is larger for the R6 shock - so the spacer fits right in... and its all a direct bolt on replacement.

I would definitely recommend the 09+ shock due to the quicker/easier install, but function is same for older year shocks.. you would just have to remove tank, airbox, and battery box to lower it in from the top.

- Bboy

[iceIVblue]

I wish I had the same success as Bock, as well as the lower bolt/ spacer I had to grind the swing arm a little. Wasn't much and didn't take very long but worth it. Mine is a '12 or '13 shock.

[Blueman]

I want to do the R6 shock conversion in my bike as well but im worried i might get one that doesnt have all the parts. anyone know if this would work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-09-10-11-12-Yamaha-R6R-YZF-R6-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Silver-OEM-08-A-/251461987345?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2009%7CModel%3AYZF+R6&hash=item3a8c4d6c11&vxp=mtr Im not sure if that has the bolt, spacer and nut though. If i buy a shock then i want to make sure it comes with everything i need

[iceIVblue]

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[BockinBboy]

That's interesting Ice.  I'm trying to think of differences there could be, but mine only having about an 1/8th of an inch of clearance - I couldn't imagine a difference would be easy to spot even if everything was side by side.  What year is your bike? Mine is an '04... it has been noted in the manual that the length and rake are slightly different over the years... can't remember the breakdown but it was a progressive change through the years with maybe three changes total... not sure what was exactly the difference to make the spec change though.

Come to think of it - I have aftermarket dogbones on my bike... they have two sets of holes - one is for a lowered position and the other is for stock position.  I put them on because I had originally lowered my bike, but have since raised it back up, and I'm using the stock position.  There could be an ever so slight difference in the center hole to center hole, and my experience says that a small change in the dogbone length is much greater for the height change of the bike and the angle of that shock.
Side note: I know if you lower the bike with longer dogbones, you definitely won't have any issues coming near the swingarm.

The other thing I thought of was that when I bought my shock, I originally though it was the newer, smaller reservoir... but when it came it was not.  After some conversing back and forth with the seller (who made it right), my R6 shock is an '07 with the larger reservoir - maybe there is a some slight difference there, I dunno.

- Bboy

[BockinBboy]

I want to do the R6 shock conversion in my bike as well but im worried i might get one that doesnt have all the parts. anyone know if this would work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-09-10-11-12-Yamaha-R6R-YZF-R6-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Silver-OEM-08-A-/251461987345?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2009%7CModel%3AYZF+R6&hash=item3a8c4d6c11&vxp=mtr Im not sure if that has the bolt, spacer and nut though. If i buy a shock then i want to make sure it comes with everything i need

That is the correct shock, but it is indeed missing the lower bolt/spacer/nut you will need... many times the only ebay ones that will come with the hardware you'll need also come with the knuckle and dogbones attached (think most listings call them 'shock linkages').  Or sometimes you can look to see if seller has the part in another listing, or just ask them too.

Here is one that would come with everything - not that you should buy this particular one, just illustrative purposes... and if you look hard enough you should be able to find a better/cheaper deal, even if you have to buy the bolt/spacer/nut separately.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-08-09-YAMAHA-YZFR6R-YZFR6-YZF-R6R-R6-OEM-GENUINE-REAR-SUSPENSION-SHOCK-/321230422089?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AYZF+R6&hash=item4acad34049&vxp=mtr

Edit: Reason I say that there should be a better deal out there is because I've seen very nice and clean setups that come with the entire swingarm, shock, linkages, fender all for $150...

- Bboy

[fraze11]

Everything Bboy said.  I have the '09 R6 in my '09 F and my bike is stock, never lowered or anything.  Once the stock shock is removed (it will come out the  bottom), remove the chain guard and the heel plate, keep weight off the rear end and the shock will slide right in.  The older shocks with the larger resevoir will have to go in through the top. If you don't get the bottom sleeve and bolt with the shock assembly when you buy it just goto your local bike shop.  I got the parts new for under 20 bucks if I recall.  I have never had any rubbing and never ground a thing when I did my install and it clears fine.  Over 10,000kms with the R6 shock and its been great.  If you do end up doing it, after a few rides do yourself a favour and adjust the low and high speed compression and load to your weight and riding style.  This Dave Moss video will explain exactly how the R6 shock works and how to do it ;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIazK4gGziA


The R6 thread in the racing and tech section literally has everything you need and more.

[dinkydonuts]

Well that was freakin easy to install.

I do see that the spring does rub against the swingarm, but only when the bike is parked. When I sit on it, the weight of my body causes the swingarm to move up just slightly enough to clear it. I don't think it'll be a problem for as long as I own the bike.

Now to begin the arduous process of tweaking it for my riding style. 

[piresito]

Well that was freakin easy to install.

I do see that the spring does rub against the swingarm, but only when the bike is parked. When I sit on it, the weight of my body causes the swingarm to move up just slightly enough to clear it. I don't think it'll be a problem for as long as I own the bike.

I think it might be when riding over a hole or after a bump! Can't you do something about it?

[dinkydonuts]

Well that was freakin easy to install.

I do see that the spring does rub against the swingarm, but only when the bike is parked. When I sit on it, the weight of my body causes the swingarm to move up just slightly enough to clear it. I don't think it'll be a problem for as long as I own the bike.

I think it might be when riding over a hole or after a bump! Can't you do something about it?

I could always grind away at the swingarm, but here's why I think it's OK to leave as is.

As I mentioned, once you put weight on the bike, the swingarm moves up (or the bike moves down) and the spring is no longer touching anything. In other words, when the swingarm moves DOWN (or the bike moves UP) there is some rubbing. The weight on the swingarm when it moves DOWN is from the rear tire and anything else sitting on the swingarm. Minus any shock forces from going over a pothole or some other road obstacle, there won't ever be any more weight on the swingarm than what is currently installed on the bike.

Also, the part that rubs is the spring, which by design has some "give". I imagine in a few thousand miles there may be a rub spot, but I cannot believe that the weight of the swingarm on a spring would cause it to fail or present any mechanical danger.

At my next oil change (2k miles) I'll check for wear. At the end of it all, it's a used R6 spring that I paid $80 for. Not some $1000 Ohlins unit. I still need to tweak with the preset on the R6 spring because I still have some rear end squish on acceleration. If for some reason I can't compensate for the squish, I may eventually sell the R6 shock and put in a Katana unit which is supposed to have an additional 2kg/mm of strength.

[fraze11]

Curious...what setting is your shock at on the ramp adjuster?  Preload is done by rotating the ramp adjuster ring at the top of the spring with a spanner wrench, try putting them at the highest (firmest) settings and working your way back.  Not knowing the condition of the shock you bought or your physical build (weight) I would try that first and then go from there.

[dinkydonuts]

Curious...what setting is your shock at on the ramp adjuster?  Preload is done by rotating the ramp adjuster ring at the top of the spring with a spanner wrench, try putting them at the highest (firmest) settings and working your way back.  Not knowing the condition of the shock you bought or your physical build (weight) I would try that first and then go from there.

Initially it was at the first notch.. 1. Basically no preload.

Then I found a spanner wrench in my toolbox and put it at 3. Haven't ridden yet but it feels like the more appropriate setting based on how little the rear end compresses when I sit on the bike.

[burning1]

If you have an after-market raising link, the R6 shock can definitely rub.

I've found there's some variance between swingarms; some rub, others don't. The Kat 750 shock is much bigger than the R6 shock; it definitely rubs. I installed it anyway, and didn't have major issues. With that said, if the shock rubs it's probably best to grind a bit of swingarm for clearance.

[jsyzdek]

Last night a got an R6 shock (2006), it came without the lower bolt, spacer, and nut. Anybody knows the size of those?

[burning1]

I'd advise buying OEM from a Yamaha dealer. The parts aren't very expensive, and the nut should be replaced anyway, since it's a self-locking type nut.

[G.Rossman]

Is there a specific year to buy to avoid the need for grinding?  I would like to avoid that but want to swap this while my tank is off anyways.

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[Logalegg]

While we are all on the topic of shocks if you change your rear shock for say the R6 shock do you have to change the front forks as well?? If so which ones would you suggest? I am new to working on my bike and don't really wanna pay a ass ton for it all to be done at a shop so plug and go is the way I am looking to go.

[fetor56]

Is there a specific year to buy to avoid the need for grinding?  I would like to avoid that but want to swap this while my tank is off anyways.

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The grinding is minor and i'm not aware of any correctly fitting year that's better than the other.......it needs that clevis mount.
The R6 is a great mod.

[fetor56]

While we are all on the topic of shocks if you change your rear shock for say the R6 shock do you have to change the front forks as well?? If so which ones would you suggest? I am new to working on my bike and don't really wanna pay a ass ton for it all to be done at a shop so plug and go is the way I am looking to go.

Either(or both) suspensions can be changed by themselves.The cheaper,easier,alternative is to swap to Sonic front fork springs;then the R6 mod later maybe.