Author Topic: Hello, First Poster and a Question  (Read 614 times)

Offline karlhoffman_76

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Hello, First Poster and a Question
« on: July 09, 2018, 12:50:22 AM »
Hi there, new Australian forum member here; I own a 2009 GS500 with ~20k km on the clock and I've been reading posts on this forum for a while now and have used it in combination with the wiki to clean/rejet/synchronise carbs, replace the stock air box with a K&N lunchbox filter, replace fuel lines, upgrade my brake lines to braided SS lines, change out the stock header bolts for SS studs and test the charging circuit for problems among other things. In the ~9 months that I've owned my GS I finally have a problem I thought I'd ask about.

About a month after rejetting/replacing fuel lines (~7 months of ownership), the left carb float bowl overflowed with fuel on startup, with fuel literally pouring out the overflow tube.  The petcock was not at fault as there were no signs of leakage at any other time prior.  Thinking that it had to be either a loose main jet needle or some crud keeping the float valve open, I ended up pulling the carbs apart on the side of the road with nothing but the stock toolkit to check/correct the issue.  The main jet needle was secure, so it wasn't that and inspection of the float valve revealed no obvious fault (needle, o-ring and float are all in good condition).  Both carbs were spotless, so I put it all back together and and she fired up flawlessly.  That was about 2 months ago; I had no further issues until just a few days ago when the exact same thing happened again.  Again I pulled the carbs apart and checked everything and again everything was spotless and after putting all back together she works perfectly again.  For the life of me I can't figure out what is wrong.

When replacing my fuel lines I opted for 5/16" instead of 1/4" line and I installed a paper inline filter between the petcock and carbs.  Is it possible this has had some effect?  It also seems to happen after riding hard, is it possible that some kind of hydraulic lock from rapid fuel entry is keeping the valve open?  Is it perhaps possible that leaving the petcock on RES after filling the tank provides enough pressure to force the needle down despite the float?  I can't remember if I had the petcock set to RES the first time, but this last time I did and the tank was full.  Just throwing some ideas out there.

Also, just as a side, regarding the charging circuit, I've had to remove and manually recharge my battery twice since owning my bike.  The battery is only 6 months old.  I tested the circuit as per instructions on this site and the wiki and it passed.  I even seperately tested the stator coil and reg/rec unit just to be sure; the reg/rec passed the diode test with flying colors, however the stator coil is showing ~65 VAC which is short of the 75 VAC stated.  Measuring the output voltage at idle (~1250 RPM) im getting ~11-12 VDC. I assume this is due to a combination of the measured stator coil output voltage and the fact that my headlights are hardwired to be always on due to state law requirments.  My solution was to increase engine idle speed to ~1500 RPM, at which I get ~13.5 VDC.  This seems to have fixed the problem.

Anyway, any feedback on the above would be appreciated, cheers in advance.

Offline Watcher

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2018, 03:09:49 AM »
Welcome to the forums!   :cheers:

I mean officially  :laugh:


Lets get right to it.  Fuel overflowing from the carbs is always a symptom of the floats being set incorrectly and/or the needle-seat being fouled.  This can run hand in hand with a failing petcock, as they tend to mask each other.  It would be wise to inspect both systems for failure.

I've had a failed petcock on my first GS and replaced it with a simple ball-valve.  On my second GS I didn't bother waiting for the petcock to misbehave, I just changed to a ball valve almost immediately after getting it.
Float height is easy enough to check and adjust, if only a little tedious.
If you find that the needle/seat is fouled I woulnd't bother trying to clean it out, I'd just replace it.

I've personally had terrible luck with fuel filters, but they usually cause a fuel starvation symptom.  There is a screen in the tank already, an in-line filter is more or less just a bottleneck.  I'd chuck it and never look back.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2018, 03:12:12 AM by Watcher »
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Offline karlhoffman_76

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2018, 03:36:30 AM »
Welcome to the forums!   :cheers:

I mean officially  :laugh:


Lets get right to it.  Fuel overflowing from the carbs is always a symptom of the floats being set incorrectly and/or the needle-seat being fouled.  This can run hand in hand with a failing petcock, as they tend to mask each other.  It would be wise to inspect both systems for failure.

I've had a failed petcock on my first GS and replaced it with a simple ball-valve.  On my second GS I didn't bother waiting for the petcock to misbehave, I just changed to a ball valve almost immediately after getting it.
Float height is easy enough to check and adjust, if only a little tedious.
If you find that the needle/seat is fouled I woulnd't bother trying to clean it out, I'd just replace it.

I've personally had terrible luck with fuel filters, but they usually cause a fuel starvation symptom.  There is a screen in the tank already, an in-line filter is more or less just a bottleneck.  I'd chuck it and never look back.

Hey Watcher, thanks for the response.

The frame petcock is working.  I pulled it apart and cleaned it when I rejetted the carbs; it was clean as a whistle and in good working order when I reassembled it.  It doesn't leak any fuel as evidenced by my latest carb inspection (I kept the tank attached to it and removed the carbs from the end of the fuel line; zero leakage).

Needles and seats are good; no fouling and o-rings in good condition and the float bowls are spotless.

I've also checked the float height using Kerry's method involving a small piece of aquarium tubing and they are both set to the correct height.

Thing is, if it were the float heights would the problem not be present even after reassembling everything? I had no issues for two whole months and then it reared it's head again only a few days ago.

Thanks again.

Offline Meukowi

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2018, 08:04:18 AM »
Welcome to the forums!   :cheers:

I mean officially  :laugh:


Lets get right to it.  Fuel overflowing from the carbs is always a symptom of the floats being set incorrectly and/or the needle-seat being fouled.  This can run hand in hand with a failing petcock, as they tend to mask each other.  It would be wise to inspect both systems for failure.

I've had a failed petcock on my first GS and replaced it with a simple ball-valve.  On my second GS I didn't bother waiting for the petcock to misbehave, I just changed to a ball valve almost immediately after getting it.
Float height is easy enough to check and adjust, if only a little tedious.
If you find that the needle/seat is fouled I woulnd't bother trying to clean it out, I'd just replace it.

I've personally had terrible luck with fuel filters, but they usually cause a fuel starvation symptom.  There is a screen in the tank already, an in-line filter is more or less just a bottleneck.  I'd chuck it and never look back.

Hey Watcher, thanks for the response.

The frame petcock is working.  I pulled it apart and cleaned it when I rejetted the carbs; it was clean as a whistle and in good working order when I reassembled it.  It doesn't leak any fuel as evidenced by my latest carb inspection (I kept the tank attached to it and removed the carbs from the end of the fuel line; zero leakage).

Needles and seats are good; no fouling and o-rings in good condition and the float bowls are spotless.

I've also checked the float height using Kerry's method involving a small piece of aquarium tubing and they are both set to the correct height.

Thing is, if it were the float heights would the problem not be present even after reassembling everything? I had no issues for two whole months and then it reared it's head again only a few days ago.

Thanks again.
had literally same problem on my gs, dunno what i did but doesn't leak anymore. hope it helped :D

Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla


Offline Meukowi

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2018, 08:09:43 AM »
Welcome to the forums!   :cheers:

I mean officially  :laugh:


Lets get right to it.  Fuel overflowing from the carbs is always a symptom of the floats being set incorrectly and/or the needle-seat being fouled.  This can run hand in hand with a failing petcock, as they tend to mask each other.  It would be wise to inspect both systems for failure.

I've had a failed petcock on my first GS and replaced it with a simple ball-valve.  On my second GS I didn't bother waiting for the petcock to misbehave, I just changed to a ball valve almost immediately after getting it.
Float height is easy enough to check and adjust, if only a little tedious.
If you find that the needle/seat is fouled I woulnd't bother trying to clean it out, I'd just replace it.

I've personally had terrible luck with fuel filters, but they usually cause a fuel starvation symptom.  There is a screen in the tank already, an in-line filter is more or less just a bottleneck.  I'd chuck it and never look back.

Hey Watcher, thanks for the response.

The frame petcock is working.  I pulled it apart and cleaned it when I rejetted the carbs; it was clean as a whistle and in good working order when I reassembled it.  It doesn't leak any fuel as evidenced by my latest carb inspection (I kept the tank attached to it and removed the carbs from the end of the fuel line; zero leakage).

Needles and seats are good; no fouling and o-rings in good condition and the float bowls are spotless.

I've also checked the float height using Kerry's method involving a small piece of aquarium tubing and they are both set to the correct height.

Thing is, if it were the float heights would the problem not be present even after reassembling everything? I had no issues for two whole months and then it reared it's head again only a few days ago.

Thanks again.
had literally same problem on my gs, dunno what i did but doesn't leak anymore. hope it helped :D

Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
basically i just switched main fuel line, and opened carbs, twisted a little the needle "holder" what ever its called to move better,  and checked that all the moving parts didnt stuck at any point

Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla


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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2018, 11:19:38 AM »
The float needle valve is intermittently sticking open. Just order a new pair and replace them. Also the petcock has to be leaking as well. Can't have this symptom without both problems.

The charging thing, your regulator rectifier is dying. Don't raise the idle to try and work around this, you'll create more problems. I recommend putting in a FET type regulator rectifier even though it may require some simple wiring mods. I have one from an 07 Kawasaki zx6r. The stock part is barely adequate when brand new and dangerously inadequate when it starts to age.

Offline karlhoffman_76

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2018, 12:16:20 AM »
Welcome to the forums!   :cheers:

I mean officially  :laugh:


Lets get right to it.  Fuel overflowing from the carbs is always a symptom of the floats being set incorrectly and/or the needle-seat being fouled.  This can run hand in hand with a failing petcock, as they tend to mask each other.  It would be wise to inspect both systems for failure.

I've had a failed petcock on my first GS and replaced it with a simple ball-valve.  On my second GS I didn't bother waiting for the petcock to misbehave, I just changed to a ball valve almost immediately after getting it.
Float height is easy enough to check and adjust, if only a little tedious.
If you find that the needle/seat is fouled I woulnd't bother trying to clean it out, I'd just replace it.

I've personally had terrible luck with fuel filters, but they usually cause a fuel starvation symptom.  There is a screen in the tank already, an in-line filter is more or less just a bottleneck.  I'd chuck it and never look back.

Hey Watcher, thanks for the response.

The frame petcock is working.  I pulled it apart and cleaned it when I rejetted the carbs; it was clean as a whistle and in good working order when I reassembled it.  It doesn't leak any fuel as evidenced by my latest carb inspection (I kept the tank attached to it and removed the carbs from the end of the fuel line; zero leakage).

Needles and seats are good; no fouling and o-rings in good condition and the float bowls are spotless.

I've also checked the float height using Kerry's method involving a small piece of aquarium tubing and they are both set to the correct height.

Thing is, if it were the float heights would the problem not be present even after reassembling everything? I had no issues for two whole months and then it reared it's head again only a few days ago.

Thanks again.
had literally same problem on my gs, dunno what i did but doesn't leak anymore. hope it helped :D

Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
basically i just switched main fuel line, and opened carbs, twisted a little the needle "holder" what ever its called to move better,  and checked that all the moving parts didnt stuck at any point

Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

Yeah, might pull the carbs off again this weekend and do a proper float height check, cheers Meukowi.

Offline karlhoffman_76

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2018, 12:22:35 AM »
The float needle valve is intermittently sticking open. Just order a new pair and replace them. Also the petcock has to be leaking as well. Can't have this symptom without both problems.

The charging thing, your regulator rectifier is dying. Don't raise the idle to try and work around this, you'll create more problems. I recommend putting in a FET type regulator rectifier even though it may require some simple wiring mods. I have one from an 07 Kawasaki zx6r. The stock part is barely adequate when brand new and dangerously inadequate when it starts to age.

Hey mr72, petcock is definitely not leaking however I think I'll take a closer look at my float needles and seats this weekend.  Just looked up a few Youtube vids on checking the condition of seats and needles; didn't realise just how finicky they can be.  Will replace if they aren't up to scratch.

My reg/rec unit passed the diode test though, do you really think it's dying anyway? The stator was only giving me a raw output of 65VAC, so if anything it might be better to replace that first?  Regarding the FET mod, can you link me to some further info?  Cheers.

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2018, 02:26:07 PM »
Welcome!  Where pics?? :dunno_black:
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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2018, 03:32:10 PM »

Hey mr72, petcock is definitely not leaking however I think I'll take a closer look at my float needles and seats this weekend. 

If the petcock is closed and not leaking then it is nearly impossible for fuel to flow into the float bowls even if the float needles are completely stuck open or removed altogether.

In order for the petcock to NOT be leaking when closed and for you to get float bowl overflow you have to have a fuel line leaking a lot of air. It's like when you dunk a straw in a drink and hold your finger over the top, when you take the straw out the liquid stays in the straw until you let air in the top. Same thing for the fuel lines. As long as there is no way for air to get into the fuel line, then it won't drain into the carb.

The petcock is leaking, pretty much guaranteed. I imagine by now they all leak. Plus you probably also have an air leak in the fuel lines. And the float needles are probably leaking. Everything on a decade-plus old motorcycle is probably leaking. But the thing to replace is the float needles, since it's really their job to keep the float bowl from overflowing and they are also required for correct running. A little leak in the petcock is not going to be a problem as long as the float needles are working.

Quote
My reg/rec unit passed the diode test though, do you really think it's dying anyway? The stator was only giving me a raw output of 65VAC, so if anything it might be better to replace that first?  Regarding the FET mod, can you link me to some further info?  Cheers.

Yeah the reg/rect is dying. You are rectifying 65VAC down to 14.6VDC. That's more than enough AC to make 14.6VDC. If your voltage is low at idle then the reg/rect is toast. A diode shunt type regulator like this dumps a ton of extra voltage into heat directly and winds up overheating everything in the R/R gradually from the very first time the bike is started. If you're lucky you change this out for a superior part before it melts everything besides the R/R.

Here's some info:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71055.msg872766#msg872766
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71055.msg872895#msg872895

BTW after riding a few hundred miles on my ZX6R regulator/rectifier I can definitely report that this thing works absolutely brilliantly.  Battery is always perfectly charged, the R/R is cool to the touch, everything is great. Only quirk is the high-beam indicator flickers at idle; it's the only incandescent bulb on the bike so I am guessing at idle the regulated voltage is not perfect.

Offline gregjet

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2018, 08:55:54 PM »
Hi from Bundaberg,
The GS carbs , unless you have crud actually stuck in the needle/seat inlet, usually leak from AROUND the seats. The O ring leaks. You can't see any actual damage usually ( the DRZ400SM has exactly the same problem with the same sort of push in needle seats). IF you could find and replace the O rings it would be easy but usually you end up buying whole needle/seats ( way overpriced little sods).
One note DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER ON THE SEALS!!! It stuffs them . Same with the float bowl seal.

Offline karlhoffman_76

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2018, 12:53:03 PM »
So for anyone curious, here's a pic of the old girl;



Pretty standard stuff.

Anyway, tonight I took the carbs off and did a few extra checks.  First thing I did was test the float needles and seats with the carbs attached to the engine and the float bowls removed.  Switching the frame petcock to PRI and holding the floats up in order to close the needle valves revealed steady leakage (dripping) through both valves.

I then checked float heights with the carb on it's side, which checked out for both floats.

I then removed the float, needle and seat of both carbs and inspected them individually.  Pics for the left and right side needles/seats, respectively, are given below.  I also tested each float for buoyancy by floating them in petrol in their respective float bowls in the correct orientation; both were buoyant and shaking them revealed no sign of liquid inside either one.

Left needle


Left seat




Right needle


Right seat




As can be seen the needles and seats appear to be in good condition.

I also tested each needle/seat for stickiness by dropping each needle out of it's respective seat into my hand; both were sticky.

I then removed the carb fuel line from the frame petcock with the fuel tank still attached and the petcock in the ON position; there was no leakage through the frame petcock at all.  I left it like that for several minutes; not a single drop came out.

So here's my theory as to what is happening; as previous people have suggested, the seat o-rings are screwed and the needles are potentially not sealing 100%, however given the good condition they are in this is likely due to the seat itself.  The needles are also sticking to the seats at times which is what is giving rise to the periodic flooding.  The solution is to replace the o-rings and polish the seats with a dremel/drill and some cue tips and polish as per below;


As gregjet suggested, it would be cheaper to find new o-rings than get replacement needles/seats, so I shall go looking for them and I'll let you know if I find them.

Yeah the reg/rect is dying. You are rectifying 65VAC down to 14.6VDC. That's more than enough AC to make 14.6VDC. If your voltage is low at idle then the reg/rect is toast. A diode shunt type regulator like this dumps a ton of extra voltage into heat directly and winds up overheating everything in the R/R gradually from the very first time the bike is started. If you're lucky you change this out for a superior part before it melts everything besides the R/R.

Here's some info:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71055.msg872766#msg872766
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71055.msg872895#msg872895

BTW after riding a few hundred miles on my ZX6R regulator/rectifier I can definitely report that this thing works absolutely brilliantly.  Battery is always perfectly charged, the R/R is cool to the touch, everything is great. Only quirk is the high-beam indicator flickers at idle; it's the only incandescent bulb on the bike so I am guessing at idle the regulated voltage is not perfect.

Thanks for the links regarding the FET mod, mr72.  I definitely think I'll give it a go.  One question though; does the ZX6R reg/rec bolt straight onto the GS frame with no modification?

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2018, 01:54:23 PM »
first off, you can get o-rings here:
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_dr350_orings.html

Super cheap and you can get all of them you need shipped at once in one envelope for very inexpensive shipping.

I'd suggest if you have the carbs apart, go ahead and get a basic set of replacement o-rings and replace them all while you are at it. Especially the idle mixture needle o-ring!

Anyway, regarding the regulator, as you might have seen in my post, it's physically larger than the stock one and the bolt holes are about 1cm further apart. So you can bolt it in but only with one bolt. Unknown whether it'll fit under your side plastics but I am guessing it will. Unlike the stocker, it won't melt the plastic if it comes too close.

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #13 on: July 11, 2018, 11:29:38 PM »
first off, you can get o-rings here:
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_dr350_orings.html

Super cheap and you can get all of them you need shipped at once in one envelope for very inexpensive shipping.

I'd suggest if you have the carbs apart, go ahead and get a basic set of replacement o-rings and replace them all while you are at it. Especially the idle mixture needle o-ring!

Anyway, regarding the regulator, as you might have seen in my post, it's physically larger than the stock one and the bolt holes are about 1cm further apart. So you can bolt it in but only with one bolt. Unknown whether it'll fit under your side plastics but I am guessing it will. Unlike the stocker, it won't melt the plastic if it comes too close.

Cheers man.  So regarding o-rings, are the DR350 carb o-rings interchangeable with the GS500 carb o-rings?  Do they use the same carburettor?

If I order seat o-rings and idle screw o-rings they will fit?

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #14 on: July 12, 2018, 10:34:38 AM »
@karlhoffman_76

Now that you've got the carbs sorted sounds like you're about ready to put an R6 shock on. You can get a virtually brand new one from US ebay delivered for about $200 or you can buy and 10 year old beaten up one in Australia for about $400.

This is the ebay seller to buy from "kml-outfit" and get a separate quote for shipping.

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #15 on: July 12, 2018, 11:43:28 AM »
If you are going into the carbs don't overlook the spindle seals and check the slides, needles and emulsion tubes for wear. They are often overlooked when advice is given out and the potential issues these can cause rarely get mentioned in this forum. A couple of thou' in the slides is enough to cause running problems and make balancing them extremely difficult.

As for the electrical problem, try taking the headlight bulb out of circuit and checking the voltage across the battery at idle before assuming a fault with reg/rect and going to the trouble and expense of replacing it. Motorcycle generators do not generally produce enough power to charge at idle speeds particularly when lights are on, it's totally normal. A load test on the battery would be a good idea if it is not staying up, age is no guarantee of its condition of ability to hold a charge. If you want to be thorugh I would also suggest a visual inspection of the generator itself. Look for a burnt or discolored coils or turns within the winding, cracked or loose magnets, slipping flywheel, a poor connecter.
There is a resistance figure quoted for each phase circuit but it's that low you need a ductor to measure it, a cheap multimeter is just not accurate enough.

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #16 on: July 12, 2018, 12:16:33 PM »

Cheers man.  So regarding o-rings, are the DR350 carb o-rings interchangeable with the GS500 carb o-rings?  Do they use the same carburettor?

If I order seat o-rings and idle screw o-rings they will fit?

Well, if you have a '89-00 model with the BST33 carb then yes, these are the same. IDK about the newer carbs, whether the o-rings are the same, but suspect they are, particularly those two o-rings.


Offline karlhoffman_76

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #17 on: July 12, 2018, 10:33:12 PM »
@karlhoffman_76

Now that you've got the carbs sorted sounds like you're about ready to put an R6 shock on. You can get a virtually brand new one from US ebay delivered for about $200 or you can buy and 10 year old beaten up one in Australia for about $400.

This is the ebay seller to buy from "kml-outfit" and get a separate quote for shipping.

Dude, why is Australia SO expensive??  Whatever it is, you name it; it's ridiculous.  Was trying to source a ZX6R reg/rec as per mr72 above and I'm getting quotes of ~AUD 150 for a used unit; pathetic.  I go on to eBay and I can get the exact same unit shipped to Oz from the US for less than a third of that.

As for upgrading my shock, not really looking to upgrade anything major atm.  Just interested in keeping a well maintained machine with some minor enhancements.  Won't rule it out in future though, who know?

If you are going into the carbs don't overlook the spindle seals and check the slides, needles and emulsion tubes for wear. They are often overlooked when advice is given out and the potential issues these can cause rarely get mentioned in this forum. A couple of thou' in the slides is enough to cause running problems and make balancing them extremely difficult.

Good call sledge, will do.  I have checked the slides and given the carb top end a thorough clean; they seemed to be in good condition.  Tell me though, what exactly do you mean by spindle seals and emulsion tubes?

Quote
As for the electrical problem, try taking the headlight bulb out of circuit and checking the voltage across the battery at idle before assuming a fault with reg/rect and going to the trouble and expense of replacing it. Motorcycle generators do not generally produce enough power to charge at idle speeds particularly when lights are on, it's totally normal. A load test on the battery would be a good idea if it is not staying up, age is no guarantee of its condition of ability to hold a charge. If you want to be thorugh I would also suggest a visual inspection of the generator itself. Look for a burnt or discolored coils or turns within the winding, cracked or loose magnets, slipping flywheel, a poor connecter.
There is a resistance figure quoted for each phase circuit but it's that low you need a ductor to measure it, a cheap multimeter is just not accurate enough.

Checking the circuit sans headlight is a good idea, never thought of that.  Is it possible to check the stator without damaging the cover gasket?  Or will it definitely need replacing if I open it up?  Do you think increasing idle to offset the low charge, as I've done, is sufficient or do you think as mr72 does that it will end up causing more problems?


Cheers man.  So regarding o-rings, are the DR350 carb o-rings interchangeable with the GS500 carb o-rings?  Do they use the same carburettor?

If I order seat o-rings and idle screw o-rings they will fit?

Well, if you have a '89-00 model with the BST33 carb then yes, these are the same. IDK about the newer carbs, whether the o-rings are the same, but suspect they are, particularly those two o-rings.



No worries.  Well I ordered them anyway, so will report back on the result when I get them in the mail.

Offline sledge

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #18 on: July 12, 2018, 10:45:54 PM »
Why guess about these things  :dunno_black:

What you need to do is visit a parts site such as CMSNL or Bikebandit. Work your way through the fiches and find the part you need on the line drawings. Along with the OEM part number you will also find a list of machines the part is used on.

For instance the 2009 pilot jet oring, 13295-29900 is used on about 30 different machines. The DR350 is not one of them, make of that what you will.

The float valve seat oring comes as a sub-assembly together with the valve and seat, 13370-04F00. It's used on fewer machines and again the DR350 is not one of them.

But why even bother chasing part numbers and deal with the uncertainty and potential quality issues associated with dubious suppliers? Just buy a quality overhaul kit that includes all the correct seals and gaskets etc and replace the lot in one hit  :dunno_black:


A good quality one like this..... https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Suzuki_GS500_97-06.html

Note these kits include the seals found on the fuel inlet T-piece, another part that I have never heard anyone in here recommend replace as part of the overhaul!

Offline karlhoffman_76

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Re: Hello, First Poster and a Question
« Reply #19 on: July 12, 2018, 11:36:59 PM »
Why guess about these things  :dunno_black:

What you need to do is visit a parts site such as CMSNL or Bikebandit. Work your way through the fiches and find the part you need on the line drawings. Along with the OEM part number you will also find a list of machines the part is used on.

For instance the 2009 pilot jet oring, 13295-29900 is used on about 30 different machines. The DR350 is not one of them, make of that what you will.

Actually if you go to the website mr72 linked me to for o-rings and check the SPN for the pilot jet o-ring, it is in fact the same for the 2009 GS500E and DR350.

Quote
The float valve seat oring comes as a sub-assembly together with the valve and seat, 13370-04F00. It's used on fewer machines and again the DR350 is not one of them.

But why even bother chasing part numbers and deal with the uncertainty and potential quality issues associated with dubious suppliers? Just buy a quality overhaul kit that includes all the correct seals and gaskets etc and replace the lot in one hit  :dunno_black:

A good quality one like this..... https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Suzuki_GS500_97-06.html

Note these kits include the seals found on the fuel inlet T-piece, another part that I have never heard anyone in here recommend replace as part of the overhaul!

I see your point sledge, however I think I'll wait for these o-rings to show up first and see if they fit.  At least then we'll know and then there will be an extra option for anyone who cares.

Also, from above, can you please tell me exactly what you mean by spindle seals and emulsion tubes?

And also, is it possible to check the stator without damaging the cover gasket?  Or will it definitely need replacing if I open it up?

And finally, do you think increasing idle to offset the low charge, as I've done, is sufficient or do you think as mr72 does that it will end up causing more problems?

Cheers for all your help.  :)