Author Topic: Ticking noise  (Read 118 times)

Offline tobyd

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Ticking noise
« on: August 11, 2018, 02:00:48 PM »
I have a ticking noise of my own now.

audible at tickover up past 50 and 60mph. The cam chain tensioner seems ok, the spring is there and it winds in and out and the end hasn't fallen off or anything. The valves are all in spec (one inlet is hovering at 0.07 / 0.08mm, so is borderline). spinning the engine by hand didn't produce any new noises, it turned freely. Timing is still right, hasn't skipped a tooth or anything.

Seems to have appeared, or at least I noticed it on Friday. On Tuesday morning I may have dropped the bike on myself a little bit - tapped it into first putting the sidestand down, clutch not on, jumped forward a bit and had a gentle controlled fall onto me... This was its left (side-stand / generator) side in case thats important. Wednesday it got a bit of a thrash and didn't have a tap. Thursday I was too hungover to ride a bike :(

The chain slack is somewhere between 20 and 30mm on the sidestand, closer to 20. That makes its own noise when the chain is too tight though.

a few posts on here mention the starter clutch (conveniently on that side) bolts coming loose. and I did wonder if it might be them?

before I dump the oil and have a look can anyone say "thats a terrible idea, it'll be the audiophile fuse on the numberplate" and/or confirm this tool will do the flywheel? I have read its M14 and 1.5 thread but does the puller need to be reverse threaded?

And is there anything else worth checking out once the cover is off?

Power doesn't seem affected, if anything its running a bit smoother, but once I noticed the noise I took it (mostly) very easy on the 15 miles home from work so maybe there is nothing past 4 or 5krpm now.

Offline sledge

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Re: Ticking noise
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2018, 05:28:39 PM »
The starter clutch becoming loose is a common issue and it needs to inspected and ruled out.
 
The extraction thread in the flywheel boss is a normal RH M14x1.5 form and that puller will fit but you may have to place a spacer of sorts into the hole in the crank end to give the puller something to act on. I made something out of a bit of steel bar I found in my garage, it was 35mm in length but I can't remember the diameter but it does need to be of a larger diameter than the flywheel retaining bolt.

You will have to lock the engine to get the retaining bolt out or you can hold the flywheel with a spanner on the flats that are on the boss.....22 or 24mm can't remember which.

Check the magnets on the inside of the flywheel Make sure they are all secure. When the flywheel goes back on it's VITAL the tapers are clean and dry, wipe them over with some petrol to get any oil off.

Loctite the starter clutch fixings and the flywheel retaining bolt.

Job jobbed  :thumb:

Offline tobyd

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Re: Ticking noise
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2018, 06:08:34 PM »
Seems there was a drive-by post about just using a common-or-garden M14 coarse threaded bolt from somewhere as a puller? I didn't quite understand this - I assume you just thread it in until it bottoms out and keep going and the flywheel is forced off - seems a bit hacky?

I'll grab a puller and some Loctite and see whats going on in there.

Anyway, cheers for info - liked your idea about jamming a spanner between a spoke and the swing arm to lock up the engine (in another thread) too.

Offline J_Walker

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Re: Ticking noise
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2018, 06:29:20 PM »
Seems there was a drive-by post about just using a common-or-garden M14 coarse threaded bolt from somewhere as a puller? I didn't quite understand this - I assume you just thread it in until it bottoms out and keep going and the flywheel is forced off - seems a bit hacky?

I'll grab a puller and some Loctite and see whats going on in there.

Anyway, cheers for info - liked your idea about jamming a spanner between a spoke and the swing arm to lock up the engine (in another thread) too.

The inside of the rotating part has threads, that's what this bolt threads into, the shaft its connected too is solid, with a dimple in the middle for the bolt that holds it on.. there's a Lip on the inside that when you stick your silver stock in and screw that bolt into it, it presses the part away from the shaft.

the most dangerous part is making sure it doesn't pop off and hit the floor..
-Walker

Offline tobyd

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Re: Ticking noise
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2018, 07:02:12 PM »
Thats how I imagined it, once the flywheel bolt is out you can thread another in thats longer that the original and keep winding against the end of the crank and force the flywheel off. Just seemed a bit abrasive to the crankend.

shirley the flywheel is captive on the bolt and you are just winding it along the threads off the crank?

or do you mean dropping the bolt and flywheel in one fluid, expensive moment? I can do that.

I think i'll use a puller. Never have too many tools.

I'm guessing using high-tensile 12.9 bolts is a bit overkill and regular steel bolts + loctite will do? Half the other bolts Suzuki on these used are made of cheese so replacing with actual metal ones is sufficient?

Offline crackin

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Re: Ticking noise
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2018, 12:23:04 PM »
The 35mm steel rod spacer  needs to be 8mm diameter and actually goes into the crack end, not against the crank end. Then the 14mm bolt is threaded in against the spacer and pop's the rotor off.
Thats how I did mine when i removed it last week anyway.
 I'm not 100% sure you will need to remove the rotor to see that the starter clutch is loose. You should be able to manipulate the starter clutch by hand to see if there is any movement there.
  I'm also not 100% sure that the starter clutch is your problem.
 
« Last Edit: August 12, 2018, 12:46:41 PM by crackin »
No matter what i do to it, it's still a GS
 It's not how fast your bike is, it's how long you are prepared to hold the throttle on.

Offline J_Walker

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Re: Ticking noise
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2018, 07:31:09 PM »
Use silver stock and harden it. I got a piece of mild steel rod "stuck" in there because the end mushroomed outwards. replaced it with a solid rod of drill rod [silver stock] that I oil quenched.
-Walker

Offline tobyd

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Re: Ticking noise
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2018, 07:43:15 PM »
What would you speculate crackin?

I can't think there is a whole lot else for top-end ticking, CCT and clearances are ok?

Offline crackin

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Re: Ticking noise
« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2018, 08:51:32 PM »
i'm not willing to speculate on this one, I really have no idea.
 If you do decide to check the starter clutch don't drop the oil. Just lay the bike on its side and pull the side cover.
 What I can say is, pulling the rotor is a tough job, Im no mug when it comes to working on engines and I had a hard time getting the bugger off. I used a ratchet strap tied to the frame and wrapped it around the rotor to loosen the main bolt and it wasn't easy. Then I did the same thing to pull the rotor off and again, not easy. I actually thought the thread in the rotor was going to strip itself. It's not a pleasant experience.
« Last Edit: August 12, 2018, 09:02:23 PM by crackin »
No matter what i do to it, it's still a GS
 It's not how fast your bike is, it's how long you are prepared to hold the throttle on.

Offline tobyd

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Re: Ticking noise
« Reply #9 on: August 15, 2018, 06:41:53 PM »
nearly all the other bolts have lunched themselves so i'd imagine these will be no different and it'll be wrecked... hopefully can get going on this Saturday.

anyone know what sized bolts the starter clutch uses?

8mm X 1.25 Allen 12.9 hard metal is in the older post which I believe translates into

12.9 tensile M8 Coarse socket cap bolts. but not sure on length?