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04' damper rod issues

Started by Jely101, March 03, 2018, 06:07:25 AM

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Jely101

Hey Guys, was looking for any input you have in getting the damper rod bolt to loosen on the front forks.

My left fork has been weeping oil for a while now so after researching it on the forums and YouTube, I finally got around to try and replace the seals today. Everything was going smoothly until I got to the damper rod. I found out that the DIY hex nut tool I made wouldn't work as they changed the top of the damper rod to be round from the 04' models.
So I put the spring and spacer back inside the fork and tried impact driver. No luck, even when I tried compressing the fork down still wouldn't loosen.
So I tried the broom stick method with the impact driver and then by hand with the socket wrench, still wouldn't loosen.
Shaved down some more of the broom stick till it was about 7cm (3 inches) deep in that b, only to have just the tip shear off inside her as I was trying to get it out.

I really don't want to buy the speciality tool , or take it to a mechanic as I was trying to do it on the cheap, but I will if all else fails.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bolt? I figured I can get the piece of wood out easily once the rod is out of the fork, and the wood can be knocked further in if need be.

I was thinking maybe trying a length of copper pipe in place of the broom handle. Or if I had to, drilling out the bolt, but then I'd have to wait for more parts which I'm not to keen on.

Any help you guys could give me would be really appreciated.

Cheers.

gregjet

Best tool I have seen for this type of thing is a home made SQUARE taper.
Here is a pic of an early hex taper rod I made a while ago. I have since found that squre taper puts more pressure on the points and holds better. Sorry I can't find the one I made for the GS at the moment, but this will give you the idea. It does need two people to work reliability though. A rattle gun or hand impact driver helps as well.
You need the taper from about 20% bigger across down to 20%smaller over a distance that will give you not too steep taper.
They don't have to be beautiful and only take a few minutes to weld up. You can make one with two nuts just locked together as well.

Jely101

Cheers mate. Bunnings didn't have any square nuts so I ended up getting a 3/4 inch threaded rod and grinder down one side to be a square as you described, then just locked two nuts together on the other end to grip it.
Worked a treat.
Finally got it back all together and no more leak.
Thanks again for the help man.

gregjet

Bush mechanic style. Obviously an Aussie ( Bunnings reference). Where are you?

Jely101

I'm over in Perth, south of the river. Are you also in aus?

gregjet

Almost straight through the middle. Bundaberg. Was considering retireing to WA but couldn't convince my girlfriend. Pretty glad I didn't move to the cyclone coast though. I am/was a Northerner ( Townsville) and was considering it. Dodged that bullet. Not so much a fan of their relatively new "cyclone friendly" policy...
When you said Bunnings, you meant not just Bunnings, but the HOME of Bunnings...

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