1993 re-hashed

[Sporty]

Last time I changed the oil and filter (and oil pan gasket and cleaned the screen) I installed one of those magnetic drain plugs. Dunno if that'd be of interest to you but I figured I'd mention it.

Definitely for a bike with a common crankcase.
Where did you get the magnetic plug?

[ShowBizWolf]

That was my thinking too.

I got mine from here: https://drainplugmagnets.com/

There's some pics of it and what comes with it about halfway down this page of my thread:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php/topic,70880.340.html

I think you can get one for much cheaper on eBay or Amazon now. IIRC when I checked those places back then, I didn't find any.

[Sporty]

That was my thinking too.

I got mine from here: https://drainplugmagnets.com/

There's some pics of it and what comes with it about halfway down this page of my thread:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php/topic,70880.340.html

I think you can get one for much cheaper on eBay or Amazon now. IIRC when I checked those places back then, I didn't find any.

Many thanks for that Pete! I do appreciate you taking the time

Got the drain plug in the mail. Came with a few extras:


Here's the actual plug with a non-crush washer (unlike the OEM one) ... I didn't know it was gonna be blue. No worries cuz you won't see it but that's something I'm sure other people might like to know But holy wow the magnet is super strong!!!

Does it read 14 X 1.25 thread? 

[ShowBizWolf]

According to the Dimple site where the GS500 is listed, yes, it says 14 x 1.25.

[Sporty]

According to the Dimple site where the GS500 is listed, yes, it says 14 x 1.25.

Thanks!  That's a common size and should be easy to find before the next oil change.

[Sporty]

The no start /no crank issue diagnosed.



From the wiring diagram, the yellow/green wires loop through the switches to the starter relay.
The bike had started fine from the button when brought home. The headlight bucket was a rats nest of wiring and rusty.
The bucket was removed and painted, the wiring reconnected and neatened up. It was apart for near two months, I didn't exactly remember if wires were not connected, or if the clutch had to be pulled to start.

(I had it connected per the wiring diagram, with all the yellow/green wires connected.)

The clutch switch is open... never makes contact. Those wires are circled in blue.
Connecting the wires circled in red (as shown in this photo) bypasses the clutch switch and allows the bike to crank from the start switch.
It must of been connected  like this before.




Unscrewing the switch from the clutch lever perch reveals two contacts.




Inside the perch is also this slider with a piece of copper to make the connection.




The plastic nub that engages the clutch lever is broken so it never slides to make the connection.





For an experienced rider, id probably leave it bypassed. For a new rider, it might save a mishap, so it's time to spend some money .

[cbrfxr67]

CAreful with that little fooker.  When I took a wee dump a few months back my clutch lever broke and of course broke that piece too.  I replaced the lever and the plastic nub piece. 
Thinking all was well I pulled the lever and broke the plastic piece again. soac   I still haven't fixed it.  Prob bypass it now that you so clearly posted a reminder

[Sporty]

The GS500E rehash is almost done. 
Left to do is:
Replace the piece for the clutch lever switch
Repair/Rebuild the vacuum petcock
Reinstall the plastic side covers.
Mount the mirrors.

If the motorcycle doesn't get plates soon, I won't be able to do any tuning this year.


No GS work last night , maybe none tonight...
Have to get these completed.

[Sporty]

Decided to knock off a couple of quick things before supper. 


Emgo replacement mirrors, supposed to be OEM copies.




Here is my bike,... and here are my mirrors 

[Sporty]

This black stuff was all over, on the tank and the frame around the tank. With the use of "Goo Gone" it's coming off.
I think Show Biz nailed it.... adhesive residue from tape that was used to hold on failing tank trim,




The info tag is in sad shape, scraped and peeling. The numbers match the frame stamp, no issue there. I wanted to stabilize and preserve what was left.




Commercial grade clear vinyl laminate. The type used for vinyl signs and lettering.



Trimmed the peeling bits off and then applied the vinyl...  Can't expect too much, but it's a little better. 

[Sporty]

Side panel tab repair. (RH side)

The lower center tab was broken off and long gone.  The "cushion" in the frame, that it fits into, was also missing.

A normal rubber grommet fit into the slot, but it takes the oval shape.





Something had to be improvised. After considering different options, an automotive trim retainer button seemed viable.





Drilled the center, then cut a slot with the Dremel tool, trying to make a keyhole shaped slot.







The webbing in the middle cut away just enough for the button head to fit.  The web will hold it in place, especially when the panel is pushed on





Button slipped into place with a nice snug fit.

[Sporty]

Making more "custom"  spacers

[Sporty]

The LH panel had all its tabs.  It wasn't until making spacers, that I noticed the poor condition of the eye which holds the "cushion", spacer and bolt to the frame.





"A stitch in time saves nine"

Sanded to rough up, then coated with plastic welder epoxy on both sides.

[cbrfxr67]

such good stuff here,...

[Sporty]

FYI

I stopped by the local dealer and ordered the contact holder for the clutch switch.
As you can see, they charge in excess of list price. It's not a lot of money and it wasn't worth ordering online and paying shipping.

It's just the point, the dealer is not bound by list price... it's worth checking as it could really add up on larger purchases.

[Sporty]

The vacuum petcock on the frame was weeping gas. Not dripping, but wet around the the sides and the selector.  There was old stale gas in the vacuum line when the carburetors were removed.

I figured the diaphragm and o-rings were gone and was hopeful some of this kit would fit, but it did not.




The selector o-ring was in very bad shape with many cracks. Found a viton o-ring that was a little thicker, but seemed to fit ok.




Not shown is the diaphragm. It didn't seem to have any pinholes when held up to a light bulb.  The edge of it was hard and deteriorating. The paper gasket was bad.






Cleaned it well. There was stringy black debris and crust clogging it up.

To help the edge of the diaphragm seal, Some old school permatex gasket paste was applied in the groove where the edge of the diaphragm sits.  The permatex isn't affected by gasoline.  It's messy stuff though.





Diaphragm set into place.





Cut a new gasket from gasket paper.












Vacuum tested with a hand pump and a gauge. It works and doesn't seem to leak.




Hopefully it's good enough for a while

[Sporty]

One thing that seems odd. This nipple/spigot for the reserve hose, just  sits into the petcock body. It's relying on the taper to seal. It seems that it should have an additional clip or something to have positive retention.
Is it missing something?

[SK Racing]

I've seen that kind of thing before. A sharp blow with a rubber mallet worked for me in the past and it didn't leak.

[Sporty]

The clutch switch contact holder came in. While at the Suzuki dealer, I picked up some nice soft Tygon fuel line, and will replace the lines when the petcock goes back on.






In keeping with this project, no part that is touched, is complete.
The seat is missing a "cushion. Wished that I'd noticed it before, but ordered one while at the dealer.

[SK Racing]

Nice! 

Wish I could walk into a store and buy stuff like this. But alas... I'm not so lucky. Living in Africa has it's drawbacks. 




There are other perks, though. To see wild animals in their natural habitat is only a few hours away. Spent the past week in such a place to unwind a bit.