Oh, the damage that can be done with a screwdriver

[SandwichMaster]

So, I recently acquired a GS500 and was told that it had some "carb issues". The fact that it didn't like idling low, but would constantly hang at 3k was a pretty good indicator. I read Josh's blog post, even message him to make sure I had the right idea, got my hands on a JIS #2 screwdriver (the packaging was in japanese, so I assumed the listing was accurate) and set to work.

I got as far as having the carb on my table when, alas, tragedy struck. I attempted to unscrew the bowls of the carbs, and as luck would have it, the first screw I tried stripped almost immediately. I have no idea why, but with just a little bit of torque the screw buckled like a card tower. So, dejected, I put the bike back together and fired it up to park it for the night.

The next day I decided to get me some comfort boba and geared up to go ride, but the thing wouldn't start. I thought to myself, "shaZam!. I broke my bike properly now." My assumption was that in my dejected state I hadn't put her back together properly, and so I checked everything I could to figure out the problem. Turns out the petcock wasn't feeding anything to the carbs, so the bike had nothing to run on. If I turned it to prime, the bike would run for a little bit, but that's no way to run a bike properly. So, back in the garage she went.

Once more unto the breach I went, and in doing so I discovered 2 things that I hadn't done right. Well, more like 1 and a half. First, I didn't clamp down the airbox, so while it was screwed in, it wasn't clamped to the carbs, and that might have done something screwy with my vacuum. The half was that the vacuum line from the petcock to the carb was kinked on one of the T-joints. I think this is the more likely culprit, but who's to really say. With my mighty screwdriver and stubby fingers, I clamped the clamps and unkinked the kink.

In the end, I feel more confident uninstalling and reinstalling the fuel tank, and have a carb that is probably no worse than when I first got it. It's sure going to be a while before I take a second swing at removing and cleaning that carb though. In any case, thanks for reading, and hopefully your screws aren't as nudity-prone as mine.

[mr72]

Many of us replace those float bowl screws with stainless allen-head screws when we work on the carbs. Not only are they much easier to remove, but you can actually remove the bowls with the carbs on the bike with allen-head screws on it, which can be a marvelous thing if all you need to do is swap the jet for a different size.

[The Buddha]

Once you have it running as crappily as the US EPA intended, you can clean the carbs and jet it properly with a "kit" I make ans sell. Its $25 shipped in conus. And it is made to your setup.
You dont get 12 jets with 8 needle settings etc etc. You so 20 pilots (132.5 or 147.5 mains - only 1 for your setup is right and that's all you get) 1 washer and 3 turns out on mix screws. You'd be spot on, make sure float is at stock height and from there on adjust just the mix screws (external = no need to take anything apart)
Cool.
Buddha.

[Watcher]

Many of us replace those float bowl screws with stainless allen-head screws when we work on the carbs. Not only are they much easier to remove, but you can actually remove the bowls with the carbs on the bike with allen-head screws on it, which can be a marvelous thing if all you need to do is swap the jet for a different size.

This.  Despite the common error of using the wrong screwdriver the screws are also made of cheesium and will often, as in your case, just strip anyway.

You can carefully cut a slot into the screw with a hacksaw or dremel cutoff wheel and use a flat head to try and get 'er out, otherwise I'd invest in a set of bolt extractors and know how to use them.


FYI the "Odds and Ends" subforum you've used is more or less the "off topic zone," you'll have better engagement if you instead post stuff like this in the General Discussion area.

[kenmarsh]

I don't even blink when I strip out a screw, anymore. I just grab the left hand twist drill bit, and have at it. They always unscrew under drill power, once the head is mostly gone.

Then I reach into the bag of "carb screws", most vendors sell them... I have two, for Honda's, they fit the GS carbs just fine. I know because I used 3 replacement screws last week, when I cleaned the GS500 carbs. On rare occasions I have to shorten one, but usually the right size is right there.

Look for some things like this:
https://4into1.com/carburetor-pan-head-screw-kit-early-japanese-models/
https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Hulk-7-Piece-Removing-Damaged/dp/B0B7KB9WYT

[cbrfxr67]

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