You reuse 6 7 and 4,

Only need 9, 3 and 15. (and a long threaded bar with three nuts to loosen and righten the bottom bolt. google it)

How many miles on the bike. Should last 30 k km.

OEM is good but Wemoto etc are also fine. It's not Hi tech stuff. Oem rubber should be fine, the seals can last 20 years in the bike.

What you describe can happen if there is an extra disc left in the cassette. Sometimes the last disk, covered as it is with oil and having had a long life, sticks to the basket surface and doesn't come out with the rest. If nobody counts, it can be left in there.

Okay I just found out when I disconnect one spark plug it works perfectly on 1 cylinder (doesnt matter which) but when it runs on both it keeps dying. Im completely stumped.

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to rebuild my front forks due to an oil leak and would like to replace the bushings as well. However, I'm not entirely sure which parts I need to purchase.

So far, I believe I need the following parts:

7 - Dust Seal
6 - Snap Ring
5 - Oil Seal
4 - Washer
3 - Upper Bushing
My main question is about the lower bushing. Is it part 9 in the diagram, or am I missing something?

Also, I've noticed that the parts are quite expensive. Should I invest in OEM parts, or would All Balls aftermarket components be sufficient? Additionally, if I go with OEM, can I trust that these parts are newly manufactured? I'm concerned about receiving old stock, especially when it comes to rubber components.

Thanks for your help!

Hi guys, and thanks for the add.

So i know this is not entirely on topic, but I'm on need of some serious assistance. The buggy in picture is a project 2yrs in the making using a GS500 engine (1999 i think). the motor was "rebuilt" not by me but from second hand parts so compression is around 90PSI (min tolerance is 114 according to the manual) so thats going to need to be built again.
The problem right now however is I cannot get the clutch to disengage. no matter how much pressure I put on the clutch push rod it just doesn't budge, so the pressure plate does not move to allow the clutch plates to disengage.
I'm going to open the clutch this weekend and take a look but if anyone has had some experience with this kind of problem any advice for what to look for would be great,

Does anyone know of alternatives to the stock carbs? I have several '99 EX bikes and am sick and tired of stripping/rebuilding the carbs on them. Seems to me they are incredibly fussy re setup and therefore very prone to developing faults. It seems to have got worse in the last few years with modern fuel containing a lot of ethanol.
Anyway, aparently most of the aircooled Suzukis and Kawasakis of this era had the same intake spacing, so I am looking for alternative options. Used to have a '81 Katana 1100 with smoothbore Mikuni slides. (Two of those most likely would've fitted.) Anyhoo, any information/advice most welcome!

eBay or see if you can salvage the pieces and find a surfer -- they'll know what to do.

My manual tensioner leaked a little oil, so when I was doing the valve clearance I decided re-install the stock unit, since it had less than 1000kms.

I used my small drill with a flathead bit. The drill motor keeps the spring from unwinding, and the weight is enough to hold it in place; freeing. up both hands.

I have now done 2000 km's with the ignition advanced and thought I'd give an update on how it has worked out.
Some days I am mostly on the highway, some days I am mostly chasing corners on mountain roads and some days I am just riding around suburbia: my riding is mostly mixed.
The most noticeable change is that the engine feels so much smoother. I rode the bike for nearly 5 years before I advanced the ignition and now, even after 2000 km's, that is something that stands out each time I ride.
The bike seems to accelerate a bit quicker. I have no way to measure it but it feels that way and I seem to be upshifting through the gears quicker.
There seems to be a small improvement in economy. I have not been keeping detailed records of the fuel used but each time I fill up it needs less than normal going by the trip meter and my years with the bike. The change is something like 23-25 km/L to 26-28 km/L.
I haven't come across any negtives so am very happy I did it.

Cheers.