OK Clipon's for 90-04 are here

[Dom]

GRU, are those aluminium?  Whatever they is,  

[The Buddha]

What is my contridiction?  If you are refering to the comment about welded bars I included that for info only, I understand that yours are clip-on, two piece.  If you mean the comment about no breaks in a non-crash situation.  I mean that no one reported a bar or clip-on that broke in a non-crash situation, unless the bike had been down before.  

The prior drop or crash probably fatigued the metal in a way as to cause failure in a non-crash situation (one coming down hard from a wheelie, the other in the bed of a truck during transportation tied down by the bars).  I really cannot believe that you really know what you are doing, I work with metal on a daily basis and would not consider myself experienced enough to take on such a project.  I can only hope that no unfortunate incidents ocurr this time around.

In the top post you said testing is needed, nasa said the chute should open .... prototypes not OK for general public ... blah blah ...
next post you said AFM and other racers said they have never seen clip on's break in a non crash .... sounds to me like you'll take someone else's word and believe it wont break... Anyway I have tested them and have the impact marks to prove it ... what I proved though was what I knew all along... these things will escape and not get stuck and get killed ... My tommaselli's ... same thing except I had them in all the way and they had no escape route ...
DOM - You need to use Tubing for bars ...pipe is close but irregularities in the OD/ID are rampant and worse is they are sold by ID and they are shitty quality ... and to break it ... vise on work bench and a 10 foot pole on the pipe ... snap it like a twig... I have those 4 weld bars too and I sell that to the SV dudes .... a horde of them showed up one day and bought 1/2 a dozen ... works on SV's obviously ... GS.... you having one sent over ... see what that feels like ...  :lol:  :lol:  :lol: ... Look out for a big ass fedex box ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[Travis]

Sell the clip-ons with a warning that breakage is posiable under extreme use, for off road use only, and ride at your own risk. That should scare off anyone that is too stupid to look at the bars and do a little surfing on the web to see how strong the materials are. He has a machinest cuting these things and I am sure this guy is no rookie so if he thought he was mass producing some kind of death trap he would turn the work down or improve it. Sell the clip-ons with a 30 day money back garante so even the most discriminating buyer will be happy. If you dont like the bars dont hate, pm him and tell him your concerns dont hate on him in a public fourm and ruin his buisness let the buyer descide it these are right for him. If you need someone to test your clip-ons send me a set I will put them on my gs and abuse the hell out of them. I will send them back to you so you can inspect them and tell everyone on the fourm what I think. If they dont kill me I will be the first person in line to buy a set.

[The Buddha]

Oddly I dont want to do it with a disclaimer... and worse... these wont be that good on a race bike, cos everyhitng is so thick and beefy it weighs a ton ... anyway ... after repeated 10 foot pole yanks ... with it on the bike ... the only part I thought needed re work was the bolt head ... which was begining to beat up the countersunk and milled hole it was sitting in ... to which my macninist said ... use bolts that have the V shaped head ... I have seen those ... the exhaust cans I had came with those ... I try to buy some tommorow ... and that evidently should take care of the issue ... as would a couple of steel washers under the bolt head ... but he seemed to say they will be better ... lets see... regular use they are never going to see any stress... and they will spin and pop off if they get stressed ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[Dom]

I don't have the heart to snap them in the vice ...I worked all day on em...what kind of tube do you suggest?  Whatever they have at the metal yard in 7/8"?  I might be able to find chro-mo but I'll have to get a some different wire for my MIG.  Well, at least I have the dimensions down now.

I made sure the beads were hot, damn hot...and the pipe had over 1/8" walls and I tempered it in oil.  It just seems like a 10 foot breaker bar would destroy any bars that you put it on.  Like, isn't that a little excessive?  And what would I expect them to do with good metal, bend?  So you are saying that the iron won't make a good weld with steel mig wire and the beads will snap right off and look all crusty like when I tried to weld some cast iron back together?

Save my bars from a horrible fate!

[The Buddha]

The 10 foot pole will tear up anyhitng ... true ... however the ones I made didn't blink with a 3 foot pole ... 10 foot and you have many types of failures ... its rod inserted and plug welded to the wall ... so first the wall begins to tear, usually right next to the weld ... and as the gap begins to show the rod is prettymuch holding it in place ... and then the rod begins to tear the wall off ... so you have obe crack showing and it stays almost the same gap as the parts that were welded to the rod begin to cave in and begin to get buckled under and usually they tear ... and I have bars that literally were bent into a tight W shape and they still were together ...
Yea the damn things take forever to make ... and they want to roll away on the table ... I have a jig made they get hammered in and welded up and that makes sure they are all identical ... still takes the better part of 1/2 hour each ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[The Buddha]

OK and on the steel quality ... I buy DOM tubing (drawn over mandrel) and its 7/8 OD and is sold by OD, and 1/8th wall and its extremely consistent for both ... now the steel is also better quality I think ... since its not rusted in the 8 months its been lying about, right next to the cheap stuff which is begining to rot and disintegrate ... higher purity on the material makes it less prone to rust ... the pipe you got is also steel, so welding it with the steel wire is good ... but the basic material is not that great ... its OK for areas where you dont care about exact dimension ... like the case savers I made ... and if you powder coat it... it is not going to rust and fall apart ... but for handle bars you want better quality...
Chrome-moly ... Over kill but you can get thinner wall and no clue how to weld it...
Cool.
Srinath.

[aplitz]

OK, thats not a contridiction.  But anyway, you tested the parts, found that some kinks needed to be worked out, are going to change it, presto not really a prototype anymore.  Whats the big resistance to testing the parts especially after your other bars broke while other people were riding?  

There is a difference between hating and keeping people honest, especially when the stakes are so high.  Also, Srinath has said that this is not a business, and rather a service to the community.  I am not attacking his cash flow, but rather making sure his products have some semblance of proven performance.

[The Buddha]

I actually didn't find any kinks ... try yanking the bars with a 10 foot pole a few dozen times ... The solution is to be tried out too ... I might just drop a washer under the bolt head which I would have anyway ... we had the bolt head make a few indentations on the aluminium after the first 20 or so times... the bolt head is right about 7/16 ths and I can fit a washer that is 5/8th OD that will do the load distribution ... The conical bolt idea sounds expensive ... and yea we are now going from something made to survive 20 crashes to maybe 30 crashes... yipee ... BTW the bars themselves might not make it through the first ... The test is only for the cap fitting on the forks ... I had a stainless rod inside the bar after the first couple of tries and it still had a banana bend in it ... But bend is OK in a crash ... break or bend under non crash is bad.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Dom]

The conical bolts aren't that expensive.  They're called "flat head" and aren't any more expensive than any other stainless hardware(I assume that you will be using stainless).  I suggest a flat head allen screw, as opposed to a flat head phillips, but I don't think that they will provide any more strength than any other type of bolt(i.e. button head, pan head, etc.) because the weakest point will be at where the head meets the thread.  My $0.02.  

[GRU]

GRU, are those aluminium?  Whatever they is,  

steel

[Dom]

SA-WEET!!!

GRU, So did you mill the large rings or did you just find some thickwalled tubing that had a similar inside diameter to the fork?  37mm I think?

[GRU]

the fork is 37mm.....big O is a steel with a 39mm hole in the middle....i made a groove in each and welded the little pieces that clamp the O around the fork

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/grubac/DSC00707.jpg

[The Buddha]

The conical bolts aren't that expensive.  They're called "flat head" and aren't any more expensive than any other stainless hardware(I assume that you will be using stainless).  I suggest a flat head allen screw, as opposed to a flat head phillips, but I don't think that they will provide any more strength than any other type of bolt(i.e. button head, pan head, etc.) because the weakest point will be at where the head meets the thread.  My $0.02.  

OK they are 2.25 each ...buy a 100 and they are 180 ... I dont need more than 14-16 ... I can see how these are better ... a 10 mm bolt (3/8th) has a head dia of 3/4 inch and its a huge fricking V shape ...  and yes takes a 6mm allen wrench ... I aint buying no phillips ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[Dom]

GRU, Looks like you used a lathe to make the beveled edges, either that or you have a damn steady hand with the file... :lol:

It looks like the little ring has a hole in the left side of it.  My guess would be that that there is a tapped receiving hole in the welded joint and that the handlebars were through-bolted?

geez, I need a lathe...

[GRU]

yeah i used the little bolt to hold the handlebar in place, untill the left handlebar fell out on the freeway   ...so i welded the handlebars to the clip-ons

[The Buddha]

The conical bolts aren't that expensive.  They're called "flat head" and aren't any more expensive than any other stainless hardware(I assume that you will be using stainless).  I suggest a flat head allen screw, as opposed to a flat head phillips, but I don't think that they will provide any more strength than any other type of bolt(i.e. button head, pan head, etc.) because the weakest point will be at where the head meets the thread.  My $0.02.  

Ironically The load in a yank with 10 foot pole situation ... falls on the bottom part of the bolt head ... precisely where a washer will sit ... now that in the case of an allen cylindrical head will be a circle or a crescent depending on if its straight out pull or it its a lift up whihc makes it a non axial pull ... when you tighten it its a straight pull ... with the V shaped head ... you drill the hole and leave it as drilled and not mill it for a flat bottom ... the V on the bolt is the same angle as the V on the bottom of the drill (137 degrees isn't it) so it saves me 1 milling step ... and when its tightened the area of contact is a cone, and when you do a cockeyed pull its a part of a cone ... the spot with the threads actually sees nothing but straight tension as you tighten it ... and you dont crank it down so tight the threads get screwed up obviously ... when the thing is yanked up with the pole ... the bar sits in a countersunk hole in the cap part and it simply causes the cap to lift ... no where does the bolt seem like it wants to bend ... It will rock a little in the hole and hit the cap part which is where the marks for impact were ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[The Buddha]

Think I'd like to order one, as I need to replace my bars and these look great. Is installation very difficult?

These are easier to fit than a stock bar ... you can do 1 side at a time ... I first slid the forks up inside the triple 1 inch then OK OK you have to take off the handle bar to get 1 inch but start with 1/2 inch, then take off the bar but slide it to the left and loosely clamp it,fit the cap and then take off the fittings on the right side of the bar, then slide it on to the new bar, and then put it in the cap on the right... BTW that means the nub on the switch is shaved/chewed ...and you probably should keep the brake cyl upright ...
Then left side ... it can be done with bar hanging down... undo all of it ... loosen is enough and slide out old bar and slide in new bar and put the cap on...
Cool.
Srinath.

[The Buddha]

Here is some old pics of us testing the bars ... these are the ones in my avatar ... The ones of the new type are just not as impressive ... cos well duh ... nohting spectacular was happening .. it was popping off the bike.... thought the one where the bike fell was interesting ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[The Buddha]

D-oh... forgot the link...
http://photobucket.com/albums/v122/Seshadri_srinath/
Cool.
Srinath.