Installing Srinath's fork brace...UPDATED

[gobstopper]

Okay, so I tried to install the fork brace.  I almost broke my 3mm allen key trying to remove #4 from the diagram below.

http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/PartsBandit/Assets/schematics/Suzuki/SU0084_043.gif

Do I need to remove the front wheel to get at the nuts underneath, or  what?

Also, if anyone is familiar with the NEP Cruise Control, tell me the secret to installing that.  I had a real incompetence filled afternoon with my wrenches.  


ALSO, trying to install Srinath's case guards......How many gorillas do I need to loosen the bolts on the engine mounts?  I pulled and pulled until I felt something tweak in my shoulder.  Should I try an air-impact wrench, maybe?  I already doused them with Liquid Wrench.

Told you I was incompetent.  But hey, tomorrow's a new day, right?  

Edited:  We don't need to keep seeing the diagram.

[chinox22x]

it'll be hard to tighten those small nuts on the fender.  I had to remove the front wheel to loosen/remove them and retighten them.  if they are not real tight your fender will vibrate like a girl's toy when you're riding.

also for your bolts, try wd40, it works wonders.

[The Buddha]

OK ... forkbrace ...
First wheel off ... yea there is no shortcut there ... then unscrew the fender bolts form under there ... The reinstall method is better and easier for future if you use zipties for the fender ... if not anyway read on ... Get the right bolts, the stock ones will be short ... and put the axle back in and tighten it to where the wheel was ... like just as tight like a wheel was there ... then bolt the outer bolts on the brace. then either zip tie of bolt the fender ... BTW if bolting it  ... makesure when you take it off that the small T washers are intact, and you might want to use a few swatches of 2 sided tape to keep the brace and fender together ... then bolt it in, then the wheel goes back in.
OK Case guards ... stock case guards have nuts that have those funky ass steel locking washers ... OH crap did I include bolts with the ones I sent you ... I dont remember ... shaZam! if I didn't ... dont touch the motor mounts... I'll send you those and some dirilled out nuts as spacers ...
Anyway if the bolts are there in my package ... OK then you need to put the right sized socket on the head of the bolt ... cos the nuts lock ... grip the bolt head and the nuts come loose ... as you remove the nuts... leave the bolts in place ... then remove the 2 nuts ... top and bottom ones ... the ones right below the exhaust ports and the one right below the round ignition cover ... and leave the bolts in place ... then take the right case guard, insert in the bolts I gave you and the spacer (drilled out nut) and use that to tap in and push out the stock bolt. Then on the left side put the drilled oout nut and the nuts I gave. My nuts are nylock nuts ... will not interchange with stock nuts, the stock bolts and nuts are different thread. You in Florida right ... OK scream for help ... someone is bound to come by from Gstwin ... BTW right case guard is different from left ... that slotted bolt hole is on the bottom ... that's how you tell ... swap that around and you'll have more trouble ... rema1000 posted some tips and pics ... worth checking that post as well ..
Cool.
Srinath.

[Kerry]

if anyone is familiar with the NEP Cruise Control, tell me the secret to installing that.  I had a real incompetence filled afternoon with my wrenches.  

He didn't provide much of a write-up, but maybe the pictures on davipu's Throttle Lock page will help.  :dunno:

[gobstopper]

Srinath, if you're referring to the ~11" long studs as bolts, yes you sent me bolts.  I've got a mighty stack of washers here for spacers.  I did already read rema1000's post, but I couldn't do much about it not being able to budge the present bolts.

This is something I call 'The Grady Factor'.  Every time I pick up a tool, whatever task I attempt will take 3 times as long, or have some sort of unintended consequence.

Example:  Trying to mount my Givi windscreen.  Should take a mentally competent person with both arms approximately 15 minutes.  I started at 11:30pm.  Open package.  Try to decipher directions--line drawings and Italian text.  My command of written Italian is mighty sketchy.  Look at parts.  Realize I don't have appropriately sized metric allen wrenches.  Go to bed.  Next day, buy allen wrenches.  Spend 10 minutes assembling brackets.  Go to loosen the bolts holding the headlight bucket to the bracket on the frame.  Unloosen one bolt too far, hear nut plink inside headlight bucket.  Completely disassemble bucket to retrieve nut, reassemble.  Mount windscreen.  Total elapsed time:  16 hours 45 minutes.

It's frustrating, but totally not surprising.  It should be fun installing my Progressive fork springs, replacing brake pads/rotors/lines, rejetting my carbs, and adjusting my valves.  Makes me glad my truck is in good shape.

[The Buddha]

Well then get a extra pair of hands ... someone to have a wrench on the bolt head ... and those 12 inch .. not 11 inch black bolts ... yiup that's the one ... and washers will work well as spacers. You need a second person to crank down mine as well as take the stock ones off ...
And fork brace needs the wheel taken out ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[Mat]

if they are not real tight your fender will vibrate like a girl's toy when you're riding.

:lol:

[MarkusN]

And when you have to replace tose bolts for the fender anyhow go ahead and install something sensible there, like plain allen or hex bolts.

A big part of your problem stems from the fact they have used those nice looking shiny flat tops there. These use an allen key one size smaller than standard, yet have a head that is larger. Which makes for more torque needed. But less torque avaialable.

You are really better off loosening the nuts below the fender and just holding the bolts with that small allen key, but as Srinath said, no shortcuts there.

Unfortunately when loosening the outer screws there's no trick available like getting to the nuts. Kinda hard to twist the fork around the bolt. WD-40 and a good rap on the key (but be careful not to hit the fork tube in the process.)

[gobstopper]

Actually, the outside bolts weren't any problem.  That was solved with an 8mm socket  on my ratchet and a liberal application of grunting.  Didn't even whack the fork tubes.

Still can't figure out the cruise control.  I'll see if anyone I know has a digital camera I can borrow, and show you guys the problem areas.

[gobstopper]

Okay, so today I rode over to my dad's house to get an extra set of hands.

Case savers:  No problems.  Just needed someone else to hold a wrench on the nut so I could use both hands on a wrench on the head to grunt the bolts out.

Fork brace:  Have to take the front wheel off.  That's not so bad.  Brace went on with no issues.  Putting the wheel back on was a bit of juggling, trying to get the disc inbetween the brake pads.  I even got that right, judging from the fact that the brakes worked on the ride home.

Cruise control:  Still can't figure that out.  I feel like a retard.  I'm trying to borrow a digital camera from a buddy to take some pics that show my issues.  Perhaps Kerry would be kind enough to host a couple of pics for me to use as diagrams?

Thanks for your help, everybody.  Things went much smoother today.

[70 Cam Guy]

So did you notice a difference?

I need to get off my lazy butt and drill the holes in mine and make it look pretty. :mrgreen:

[Kerry]

I'm trying to borrow a digital camera from a buddy to take some pics that show my issues.  Perhaps Kerry would be kind enough to host a couple of pics for me to use as diagrams?

Sure, why not?  Send them via email.

[gobstopper]

Kerry:  Great, thank you!  I will send them Sunday afternoon.

70 Cam Guy:  Holy crap, yes.  I can't really describe it, but the fork brace is certainly noticeable.  The front end feels more...I don't know....tied together?

[Kerry]

I uploaded the pictures to the http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/GStwinMembers/gobstopper directory.

Tell me - which of the NEP models on this page did you buy?

EDIT: Updated the URL for the NEP page

[gobstopper]

Okey dokey, so in accordance with this thread, I bought the CC-2 (for most single cable throttles).  I have a 1997 that has a single cable throttle (unless there's another hidden cable--don't really think so.)  I'm wondering if I should have gotten CC-4 (for late model Suzukis).

Okay, here's the throttle tube with the grip pulled back:



From left to right---grip; throttle tube; ridge of tube that holds end of grip; inner, large diameter part of tube; very narrow [~2mm], thin diameter part of tube (not totally visible).

When placed as shown in the accompanying instrucions:



The 'main circle' of the cruise control assembly is obviously not large enough to wrap around the "inner, large diameter part of throttle tube" from the pic above.  The assembly is also way too wide to fit in the "very narrow, thin diameter part of tube", where it would probably fit for the circle.



This pic from davipu's writeup on the Cruise Control install shows the very narrow part better.


Now, if you can.......please tell me if I'm assembling this incorrectly, or if I've bought the wrong thing.

Kerry, thanks again for hosting the pics.  You da man.  Davipu, any input?  Anyone else got any ideas?

Thanks, y'all.

[The Buddha]

<big snip>
This pic from davipu's writeup on the Cruise Control install shows the very narrow part better.


Now, if you can.......please tell me if I'm assembling this incorrectly, or if I've bought the wrong thing.

Kerry, thanks again for hosting the pics.  You da man.  Davipu, any input?  Anyone else got any ideas?

Thanks, y'all.

Completely off topic ... but can anyone else tell me what's wrong with that picture ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[Dom]

Somewhere a sideways "C" means "on"?

[The Buddha]

Its more like a Upside down C with an arrow at one end ... and that means keeps turning ... ha ha ... definition of on ... and nope ... not even close ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[gobstopper]

Bike has no gas tank.

[Dom]

No rocker cover?  Brake lever has 6 settings instead of one(lever off different bike?)