What is it?! -Junk in the oil strainer

[manofthefield]

Ok, went to an electric motor, alternator, etc. shop with my rotor and talked to the guy for a while, very helpful man.  The stuff is just epoxy and the part that chipped off on the ends is just there to cap it.  I would probably be able to run it as is, but he said while  you have it off, you should fix it.  His quote was "that is difference between a good job and a great job."  Anyway, his advice was to clean it up really well with alcohol, get the remaining loose chips off and do it myself with epoxy.  He said that is exactly what he would do with it if I gave it to him.  And his shop rate was $80+ /hr.  He went so far as to say that the job I do will be better than what I would get with a replacement rotor, because the replacement will eventually have the same problems.  So I've got some work to do, then at least 16 hours to wait for the epoxy to cure

[dgyver]

What kind of epoxy did he recommend?

[manofthefield]

Just normal 2 part epoxy that you would get from the hardware store

[luksi]

This type of info is what's great about this site...be sure to get back with how this turned out...some of us might need to know later.  Thanks.

[manofthefield]

Well here's what I used:

It's a little hard to see the new epoxy because it so dark.  The one orange spot is from the original epoxy, that little bit didn't want to come off at all.  It's been curing for about 2 hours now, so ~14 to go.  I think I may let it cure longer than that before I put it back on the cold bike out in the garage, maybe I'll wait til march   I was planning on going back to school today, but this project has held me up.  I may just leave the bike somewhat dissasembled until spring break.

[The Buddha]

OK please tell me that epoxy can stand atleast 300 degrees ... or probably more ... I cant read that print on it ... I'd have used JB weld ... In fact I did use JB weld in the stator I wound ... pretty ....   ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[manofthefield]

Package says 250 degrees F  :dunno:

[Rema1000]

"Regular" epoxies usually have a "heat distortion temp", usually around 140 degrees or so, which is when the epoxy starts to get soft.  They often work fine at 160-170 degrees (dry), and for short periods above 300F, but not sustained.  I've seen heat distortion temps as high as 212F, even for regular epoxies.

Then there are "high temperature epoxies", which may have a 2-stage hardening process: 1st at room temperature, then a second hardening at 150F or so.  These usually have a HazMat shipping restriction on the hardener.   The heat distortion temp is still down at 140F or so, but they can handle 300-350F sustained temps (dry).

Google on "high temperature epoxy" shows some possibilites:
novolac Epoxy Systems #634 or #641: http://www.epoxysystems.com/634.htm
JeffCo #1337 with #3137: http://www.jeffcoproducts.com/sitemap.html
Duralco #4703 tooling epoxy: http://www.hightemperatureadhesives.com/epoxy%20adhesive%20general.htm

[The Buddha]

The wire I bought for my alternator rewind was from mouser electronics ... they had clear epoxy that was resistant to 400F .... Not sure if that is burst or constant ... I cant find the box now ... it was as the title said clear ... after I coated the stator it looked gorgeous ... still could see the deep color of the enamelled copper wire ... now JB weld might work OK too, cos I remember they slap it on heads and valve covers ...
Cool.
Srinath.