Replacing rear sprocket...

[Queso]

Can I get a little help? Mainly, I'd like to know what all I'll need tool-wise to get the job done. I've got a new chain (DID520V) a new front sprocket (JTF516.15) and new rear sprocket (parts unlimited 39T). I've found plenty of topics dealing with front sprocket and chains, but nothing on rear sprockets...

So, will I need new cotter pins? What's the name of that tool for removing the snap ring type clip things? Do I have to remove the rear wheel and swing arm to get the job done? What tool will I need to get the new chain on? I appreciate the help. Soon as I get a reply, it's off to Ace Hardware, then time for some wrenchin... Thanks!

[TragicImage]

Chain Breaker?


I think you have to get that at a MC Shop.

[Queso]

To get the old chain off, I got a dremel for that. I'm talking about that tool thats like pliers that get that little clip with the two holes off. And what kind of tool to get the new chain on??

[Kerry]

Mainly, I'd like to know what all I'll need tool-wise to get the job done.

Here's everything you need for the front sprocket (they're called "snap ring pliers"):

I've found plenty of topics dealing with front sprocket and chains, but nothing on rear sprockets...

That's because rear sprockets tend to last 3 / 4 / more times as long as front sprockets.  Most people never put enough miles on to wear them out.  I bought a replacement rear sprocket early on, too.  After 36,000 miles on the original, it's still sitting in my shed waiting for its turn....

So, will I need new cotter pins?

You mean one for the rear axle?  Yes, unless you can find a suitably-sized hitch pin:

Do I have to remove the rear wheel and swing arm to get the job done?

Is your new chain "continuous", or did it come with a master link?  If continuous (and you don't want to "break" it) then yes.  Otherwise, see this old post for pictures, etc.   Go down a few more posts for pic & info on installing the master link clip.

[Queso]

Yeah, I'd found that post for getting off the chain... I'm mainly concerned about trying to replace the rear sprocket. The teeth on it are looking a little shark finned. I don't the the PO lubed the chain much. I just don't want to start taking stuff apart and find things that should be replaced each time you remove it, or have something fall out or break...

[Queso]

I guess the stealership will take this one... 

[scratch]

Noooo...you can do it!  It's just like changing the chain on a bicycle...only heavier.  You will have to take the rear wheel off to replace the rear sprocket, and if you put everything back the way it came out, you'll be fine...and, you'll get to align the rear wheel, and do a chain adjustment!  But, if you are uncomforatble with doing so, we wont berate you.

[Queso]

Well, I'd love to, but are there any tutorials for this sort of thing? Is there anything I need to grease up (besides the chain) before putting it back on? I was looking through the clymers, and there's a lot more to the rear wheel than I thought... I'm also concerned I won't be able to get the master link on the new chain...

[Kerry]

One question: How many miles do you plan to put on the bike?

Why do I ask?  Well, if you're planning to wear out a few sets of tires you may want to bite the bullet and take the "rear wheel plunge" now ... before paying for shop labor to remove and replace the wheel each time you need to have a new tire mounted.  Up to you, of course.

It's true that it can be tricky to put the wheel back on - at least the way _I_ do it.    It goes way easier if you have a friend take care of lining up the brake-side spacer and pushing the axle through while you hold the wheel up and move it around (or vice versa).  But it's certainly do-able.

The only thing I grease up is the axle.  I have a $2 or $3 tub of red, general-purpose grease, a light coat of which I smear on the axle just before reassembly.

As for getting the master link clip on....  As I mentioned in that other thread, the hardest part is compressing the side plates of the master link together.  The last time I did it, I used a $4 pair of 2-inch C-clamps.  (Or was that a single, $2 C-clamp?  )  Once the grooves for the clip are exposed, it's all downhill.

[Queso]

I'm planning on putting around another 19-20k miles on it (hit 1000 miles of riding experience just a couple days ago - about 3 weeks since I got my bike)

Well, I'd prefer to do it myself.. So I guess I'll grab a couple c-clamps. You have any pictures of where to clamp down? Is there a certain size c-clamp? General purpose grease, eh? Thanks, Kerry, that was the type of info I was looking for... But will it be possible (not necessarily easy, but possible) to put the rear wheel on by myself? And what's this about aligning the rear wheel? How do I align it? Does alignment require any special tools? I haven't even gotten to the valve clearance, yet...

[scratch]

It is possible to put the rear on by yourself; I routinely use my knee to "roll" the wheel up onto, so I can use one hand to align the wheel and the other to slide in the axle; another option is to use a 2x4.

After all that, and after you have installed your chain, you will need to align the rear wheel.  It does not require any special tools.  I will post links here shortly.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=24039.msg246158#msg246158

[Kerry]

Cool!  An excuse to take some new pictures!

You can go a couple of directions with the C-clamps.  One option is to get hefty ones and use them with small sockets, like Rema1000 does with his vise.

Another option is to go small and use the C-clamp(s) directly.  The more I think about it, it seems like I only used one clamp last time around ... but I could be wrong.

Anyway, when I say "small" I'm talking about this:



If you want to try the "single-clamp" method, the 2-inch variety has a slightly smaller clamping surface than the 1.5-inch ones (a little hard to tell in the picture below, but the 2-inch clamp is on the left).  The smaller "face" fits better between the pins on either side of the master link.  No sockets or anything else, just the C-clamp pushing directly on the center of the 2 outer plates, between the pins.



If you want to use the "dual-clamp" method, just about any-sized clamp will allow you to slip a small socket over the pins on the clip side of the master link.  (The only downer with small clamps is that the "torque bars" get bent up pretty easily.)


Yes, you can put the rear wheel on yourself.  Especially if you're in shape and you have long arms.    For me it's a little tricky because I am not in shape and don't have long arms, and I:

* sit behind the bike with both feet

under the tire to lift it into place

* hold the brake-side spacer in place with my left hand while leaning way over to the right with the axle in my right hand

* inevitably have to shift things around (the wheel, the brake torque arm, the chain adjuster) with one or two hands too few  [/list]

But it always works out in the end.

The worst thing is that I can't be over on the right side of the bike where I can see what's going wrong with the aligment of all the pieces.  I think somebody around here may use a wedge or other "spacer" under the wheel to put it at the right height.  That would make a big difference ... maybe I'll try that next time!

Once the axle is through all of the stuff on the right side of the wheel you can relax for a while before lining everything up with the hole in the left-side adjuster and pushing the axle the rest of the way through.

[Queso]

Thanks! I'm off to get some c-clamps, wood, and grease! If this doesn't take me all day, I'll do my valves, too... Otherwise those wait til next weekend...