Chain and Sproket replacement

[Coast Rider]

Need advice, I need to replace the chain and sprokets on a '96 myself, haven't found a mechaninc I trust yet.  Are there any specials tools or tricks I need to be aware of before I start.  The front and rear sprokets are being replaced, the front I am changing to a 15 tooth for a little more low end power.

[hmmmnz]

its all fairly straight forward, you shouldn't have any issues, sometimes the back sprocket is a bastard to get off as the nuts get knocked around a bit.
go for it

[scratch]

The only special tool you might need would be snap ring pliers; that's used to remove the snap ring off of the layshaft, so you can change the front sprocket.

And, maybe a chainbreaker to break the old chain and help install the new one.

Other than those, it's just an 8mm socket to remove the countershaft sprocket cover.
Alot of newspaper to catch the mess that's going to be behind the cover (use a sock over your hand).
pliers to bend and remove the rear axle cotterpin
22mm to remove the axle (maybe a 17mm on the other side).
12mm to loosen the chain adjusters an equal amount so as to maintain your alignment
14mm to remove the nuts on the rear sprocket.

[corndog67]

If you don't have a chainbreaker, you can use an angle grinder and just grind the head off the pins. 

[Queso]

I used a dremel and a cutting disc to get off my chain, and an impact driver and penetrating oil for the rear sprocket bolts. The front sprocket is super easy to get off. SNap ring pliers can be bought for less than 5 bucks, too.

[Kerry]

This old post may help with the chain replacement part.

If I were going to replace the sprockets at the same time, I would probably:

* Loosen the chain tension adjusters by 2 or 3 (or more) full turns each.  (I would expect the new chain to be "tighter" than the old one. 

How much tighter would depend on how many miles and what kind of maintenance the old chain had on it.)

* Remove the rear wheel and replace the rear sprocket, leaving the old chain looped around the swingarm.

* Replace the front sprocket before remounting the rear wheel (while I still had LOTS of slack).

* Remount the rear wheel and push it as far forward as the loosened adjusters would allow.

* Hang the old chain back on both sprockets (should be a little loose).

* NOW I would "break" the old chain, use it to thread the new one on, and assemble the master link.

* Finally, I would adjust the tension of the new chain (making sure to turn both adjuster nuts the SAME amount) ...  torque down the axle bolt ... and mount the cotter pin / hitch pin / whatever.[/list]

Best of Luck with whichever way you choose to do the job. 

[runsilent]

If you don't have a chainbreaker, you can use an angle grinder and just grind the head off the pins. 

And if you don't have a chainbreaker or electricity in the garage you can cut it off with a hacksaw.  Tried it with a couple old standard blades and they wouldn't touch the chain so I went to Lowes and got a couple of those high quality white blades and one of those just walked right thru the chain with ease.  No need for an expensive tool to use just once, won't need to cut another chain till you get another bike with a continous chain if you use master link type replacement chains.

[Jace009gs]

even the master link chains are a pain in the butt to dissassemble. They make a special tool to get them removed that pushes the pin back and such. GET A CHAIN breaker because o-ring chains are tighter than...*&%#$ and you'll need it get the old chain off and the new one on. ...their like $20 at the stealer ship....

MAKE SURE TO REPLACE the chain with a high quality 0/x ring chain
-nothing like replacing chains yearly

Yea Any mechanic will also tell you to replace all of the sprockets with the chain as well. you want everything to mesh together evenly and wear at the same rate. With that said as well make sure the rear wheel matting surface is fresh and clean-probably have to hit it lightly with some sand paper so that the rear sprocket sits flush.

Also the chain will stretch during it's first 250miles or so...So keep a tight eye on the adjusters

[Coast Rider]

What is the verdict, masterlink  or the clip for the chain?

[scratch]

Those sound the same.  Do you mean to ask, "Masterlink(which has the clip) or press link/rivet"?

Masterlink is the easiest, and least expensive, and requires no special tools.

[Coast Rider]

Oops, yea clip or the rivet link, is one better?  I understand that the rivet link is more secure, but a $100 for the kit to be used only once, I mean its a 500, as much as I love her the torque and power are limted.  Unless the same kit can be used on larger bilkes later.  Can the clip be taken off later and replaced with the rivet link?  I just want to ride again!!!!!!!

[Kerry]

If the kit says it will handle up to 530 chain then yes - you could reuse it for (a) bigger bike(s) later.  I know!  Take a guess at how many chains you'll go though in your riding career and divide that into the price of the tool....   

I can't think of any reason why you couldn't remove a clip-style link and replace it with a riveted link whenever you wanted to.

Having said all of that, I have ridden for 3.5 years and almost 13,000 miles on a clip-style master link.  At this point my dad would say something like "ALL chains used to have clip-style master links!" but of course bikes have gotten much more powerful.  Well, except for the GS500 (you raised a good point there). 

[scratch]

Oops, yea clip or the rivet link, is one better?

Depends on how you look at it.  Pricewise and practicality, the clip type is better.

Unless the same kit can be used on larger bilkes later.

Both/either can be used for larger bikes.  I suggest the clip type.

If I had a GSXR1k, I would use a rivet type, in my personal opinion, in my professional advice to myself, and for my own peace of mind.

Can the clip be taken off later and replaced with the rivet link?

Yes.

I just want to ride again!!! 

I can certainly empathize.  Hope this helps. 

[Coast Rider]

Thanks, everyone. 4 hours later sprokets are replaced new chain on with the clip master link, reading past post on wheel aligniment, I hope I have it right, time for the test ride.  Let you know how it goes!

[Coast Rider]

The test ride went well.  Have a little more low end power since installing the 15tooth front sproket.  Feels great, except the wheel alignment seems to be off, the bike pulls left, any input anyone.

[Coast Rider]

Kerry and RedShift,

Thanks for all of the input, the screw had to be backed off a little.  The clutch does not slip, and it seems to have more power now. Thanks for everything.

[Kerry]

Kerry and RedShift,

Thanks for all of the input, the screw had to be backed off a little.  The clutch does not slip, and it seems to have more power now. Thanks for everything.

This seems to be in the wrong thread ... but I know what you're talking about. 

[BubbaMeetze]

Got a question here, according to all of the service manuals, clymer, haynes, Suzuki.  If I recall correctly, to replace the chain it states to remove the swingarm and to not use a non continuous chain.  Is there a reason that it seems that everyone is stating to do the opposite.  I was reading the click clack cilck clack post http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=12874.0 and cleaning and lubing my chain when I decided to see how everyone else was replacing their chain.  In looking at mine I think I see the clip deal on my chain, so I guess this is a common practice.

[Kerry]

The main reasons for going with a clip-style master link are convenience and cost.

Convenience: I think most would agree that a continuous chain is the ideal, but who wants to remove the swingarm?  Besides, I still haven't figured out where one can order a continuous chain....

Cost: The other "all-riveted links" alternative is to use a rivet-style master link, but the type of tool needed for the riveting tends to be expensive.  See this old (but updated) post for some options.

[MarkusN]

That's one issue I find I huge difference between the US and Europe (Germany, anyway). You'd be hard pressed to find anyone on the German forum who uses a chain wiht a master link (exaggerating a bit, but not much.)
Here, everybody and their neighbor uses chains with links, many with clips (which are dubbed anything short of the devil over there.)

Still, I have yet to read about anybody breaking a chain because of the master link here. So I guess it's OK to go with convenience.