Annoying new guy 2 up questions

[LPC2104]

I've searched a bunch but still have a few questions.  Thanks to the guy that just went on the big road trip overseas and Kerry for lots of info from the search function.

I'm going to be going on the longest 2up road trip I've been on so far (relax, trip is only 140 miles) so I want to make sure I have all my stuff correct.

Tires - F=33 R=39-41 I can handle this. 

Chain - I know I need to adjust to 33mm but don't know how and couldn't find any help with the search.  I'm an idiot and need a walkthrough.  How do I measure and how do I adjust.

Rear Shock - setting to 4?  I don't know anything about any part of this. 

I know I'm supposed to adjust the headlight as well but I don't plan on riding at night at all and my wife only weighs 115 lbs so it's not like I'm going to have a lunker on the back.

Any info would be appreciated.  I know it's simple stuff to most of you but it's totally new to me so please talk to me like a 5 year old, I don't get offended easily.

In return for help, I'll put together a FAQ sometime so future noobs will find the link easily.

Thanks,

the guy from the movie Torque.

[ets_gs500f2004]

well start by seting up your suspention at 7 cause youll find it really soft at 4........ and if she never mounted the bike before give her the passenger lesson like what to do and not to do.... thats the 2 main things i can think of right now so ride safe and have fun

[LPC2104]

well start by seting up your suspention at 7 cause youll find it really soft at 4........ and if she never mounted the bike before give her the passenger lesson like what to do and not to do.... thats the 2 main things i can think of right now so ride safe and have fun

Any tips at how I set the suspension at 7?

[Kerry]

Any tips at how I set the suspension at 7?

I did a search on "spanner toolkit" ... the page of threads that were returned will tell you everything you need to know!

[Jenya]

there should be a special tool in your toolcase that is under the seat for turning preload ring on the rear shock. 7 is the toughest setting. there are numbers imprinted on the ring too, but basically turn it to the biggest preload and it will be 7

[Alphamazing]

Chain:

Tools you'll need
12mm, 17mm, and 22mm wrenches (socket wrench ok for the 17 and 22mm ones)
Tape measure
Pliers

After a short ride (~15 minutes) and with the bike on the side stand, place your tape measure next to the chain with the tape extended enough so that it goes past the chain about 2 inches, in about the center of it (between the two sprockets).

To measure - note where the middle of the chain link is on the tape measure. Push the chain upwards and note where the center of the link is. It should be between .8" and 1.2".

To adjust - Using the pliers, remove the cotter pin on the left side of the rear wheel's axle. Then with the 22mm (left side) wrench and 17mm (right side) wrench loosen the rear axle nut by rotating counterclockwise on the 22mm nut. Be sure to loosen the 22mm nut, not the 17mm axle bolt. There is no need to remove the nut, but loosen it in order to allow the wheel to move as necessary.
Using the 12mm wrench, adjust the screws and plates on the back of the swingarm by turning the nuts attatched to each. Be sure to do each side equally and in small increments. There are markings on the swingarm noted near the axle. Make sure they line up while you are adjusting the chain tension.

To tighten the chain - turn the nuts counterclockwise. The plates may become loose. You might need to pull the wheel backwards or roll the bike in order to get the plates to be flush with the swingarm again.

To loosen the chain - turn the nuts clockwise. This pushes the wheel forward allowing the chain tension to loosen up.

Retighten the rear axle nut and replace the cotter pin and you are good to go!

Rear Shock:

For riding two up, I suggest bumping up the shock preload to the 7th setting if you haven't already. This can be a fairly annoying task as there isn't much room to work.

Tools you'll need
C-spanner from the tool kit
"Cheater" bar

With the bike on the centerstand, be at the left rear of the bike. Looking under the bike you will see the shock and the metal collar on the bottom of it with oval holes cut around its circumfrence. To adjust the preload higher you will be turning the collar clockwise (viewing it from above). To see which setting you are on now look at the bottom of the shock collar. There should be a little metal nub on the shock body that the collar rests on and a number on the collar itself. Stock setting is 4.

Place the C-spanner's top hook into one of the oval holes on the right side near the back of the shock (you're on the left side). With the c-spanner in place put the cheater bar over the handle's edge and pull. This should bring the preload up one number setting. Reposition the C-spanner and repeat.

This will take some time and experimenting. It can be extremely frustrating as there isn't much room to work with at all.

[LPC2104]

Exactly what I was looking for, thanks everyone. 

[LPC2104]

C-spanner from the tool kit

One more quick question.  Kerry also mentioned a spanner toolkit, I don't have one of these as I bought my bike 16 years old and it must have gotten lost through the years.  Can I order one these toolkits or are they pretty ordinary and I shouldn't have a problem finding them at Lowes/Walmart/Ace?

[Alphamazing]

C-spanner from the tool kit

One more quick question.  Kerry also mentioned a spanner toolkit, I don't have one of these as I bought my bike 16 years old and it must have gotten lost through the years.  Can I order one these toolkits or are they pretty ordinary and I shouldn't have a problem finding them at Lowes/Walmart/Ace?

You didn't get a tool kit with your bike? Hmm. I forget the radius of the spanner (32.5 maybe??) but you might be able to get one from one of those stores. If not, I've got a spare tool kit from my old bike.

[Kerry]

Can I order one these toolkits or are they pretty ordinary and I shouldn't have a problem finding them at Lowes/Walmart/Ace?

See part 1 of this recent post.

[average]

Wouldnt a coilover wrench work?

[ets_gs500f2004]

no i dont think so ill have to check but the coil over wrench looks a lot biger

[scratch]

Chain:

[To tighten the chain - turn the nuts counterclockwise. The plates may become loose. You might need to pull the wheel backwards or roll the bike in order to get the plates to be flush with the swingarm again.

To loosen the chain - turn the nuts clockwise. This pushes the wheel forward allowing the chain tension to loosen up.

Warning!: turn the nuts CLOCKWISE to tighten the chain (lefty-loosey, rightey-tightey), this will draw the axle backwards, tightening up the chain.  Again, do this in very small increments, on each side of the swingarm, equally, because it is easier to tighten and maintain alignment.  Tighten the left one first and then the right one.  I turn them one facing at a time (1/6th), tighten up the axle nut, and check tension again, this helps avoid overtightening.

Also, if you don't have the spanner, but if you do have a very large screwdriver:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=26802.msg289184#msg289184

[LPC2104]

Apparently I didn't do as good a job with the search function as I thought.  Thanks.

[Alphamazing]

Chain:

[To tighten the chain - turn the nuts counterclockwise. The plates may become loose. You might need to pull the wheel backwards or roll the bike in order to get the plates to be flush with the swingarm again.

To loosen the chain - turn the nuts clockwise. This pushes the wheel forward allowing the chain tension to loosen up.

Warning!: turn the nuts CLOCKWISE to tighten the chain (lefty-loosey, rightey-tightey), this will draw the axle backwards, tightening up the chain.  Again, do this in very small increments, on each side of the swingarm, equally, because it is easier to tighten and maintain alignment.  Tighten the left one first and then the right one.  I turn them one facing at a time (1/6th), tighten up the axle nut, and check tension again, this helps avoid overtightening.

Also, if you don't have the spanner, but if you do have a very large screwdriver:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=26802.msg289184#msg289184

Durrr, thanks scratch. I feel silly now. I knew that, but was in a rush to finish up as I was about to leave for work.

[TadMC]

Oh man, I think I 'F' up my chain tightening/ tire alignment.   

But everthing is tight,  Chains are at the right tightness,  and the wheel dont squeak anymore.  So im not sure if I messed it up, but ??



1 I took out the cotter pin.

2 Loosent the nut on the axle,

3 Loosened those screws in the back

4 but the wheel wouldnt move, so I kinda knocked it with a rubber hammer, It moved back enough to be tighten the chain.

5 Checked the alignment

6 everything was tight and aligned so I tightened the rear screws,  then tightnend the nut on the axle

7 then put the cotter pin back in, and now its right,  I guess

[CirclesCenter]

My suggestions for riding two up on the GS.....

Don't.

Sorry, but this bike doesn't seem like it's too great for that. And you guys who do are nuttier than I am dragging a peg on the inside of a ZX-6.

No offense to anyone, but I'd rather not have the extra weight and scooter-rific acceleration.

[Alphamazing]

My suggestions for riding two up on the GS.....

Don't.

Sorry, but this bike doesn't seem like it's too great for that. And you guys who do are nuttier than I am dragging a peg on the inside of a ZX-6.

No offense to anyone, but I'd rather not have the extra weight and scooter-rific acceleration.

You'd be surprised. The GS can scoot even with extra weight on the back. I've ridden my girlfriend on the back of mine around town when she's here, as well as back and forth to Waco once (200 miles round trip), and back and forth between Austin and San Antonio once (200 miles round trip). She never had any problems and nor did I. You just have to work on being exceptionally smooth and slipping the clutch A LOT and being smooth with your braking and acceleration.

[Chuck]

No offense to anyone, but I'd rather not have the extra weight and scooter-rific acceleration.

Often your passenger doesn't want or need major acceleration.  My 2-up acceleration has always been fine.

[LPC2104]

3 Loosened those screws in the back

4 but the wheel wouldnt move, so I kinda knocked it with a rubber hammer, It moved back enough to be tighten the chain.

5 Checked the alignment

I tackled it last night but unfortunately didn't get very far as I had to run out.  My chain is just a tiny bit loose but I'm going to tighten it a little just to get some experience.  Tad's post kinda threw me a curveball though.  Here's what I did.

Took the codger pin out

Loosened the axel

Got confused and couldn't find teh 12mm fittings

Tightened axle and replaced codger pin

Does anyone have a pic of the 12mm things I need to turn clockwise/counterclockwise that Alpha posted earlier?  Furthermore, does the actual wheel move?  If that's the case won't I need to have the bike on the centerstand?  Lastly, do I just eyeball the alignment or is there some super fancy jedi skill way of doing it?  Thanks for being patient.