because there's not enough carb problem threads…

[12thmonkey]

My '96 was in need of enough work that it wasn't really a practical commuter anymore...so, i bought this new bike. thinking it would solve all of my problems. Honestly, it's a great bike, and i love almost everything about it. But, it does run rough. The guy i bought it from hadn't ridden it over a month, and it has a slip-on and was never rejetted. So, figuring it just needed a little carb cleaning and possibly a rejet...i thought it was worth it. Yesterday i tried to take the carbs apart to clean them, but both of the brass screws that hold the float assemblies down were already partially stripped and didn't want to come out. So, i cleaned it best i could without really taking it fully apart. i did notice that they had the mixture screws 4.5 turns out! i was thinking maybe they were trying to compensate for it running lean cause of the slip-on? i set them to 3 and adjusted the idle, and now it runs worse. Previously, it idled fine but had major hiccups throughout the low and mid-range rpms. Now it runs worse and idles worse. i noticed that when it's idling and hiccups, the left carb bucks a little too. It's an '02 with a Cobra F1S slip-on, and stock jetting.

Some questions (after searching, of course):

1. Do i need to rejet with just a slip-on? If so, what sizes do i need to go up to? There's a stealer 2 miles from my apt...so it shouldn't be hard to get what i need...i think. i was wanting to anyway, but could that be the primary factor?

2. The floats could also contribute to it running lean, right? What should i do about those brass screws? i don't want to even try and get them off if i don't have new ones to put back in. Is that something i could get at the stealer? i'll try to get some clear hose and check the heights soon...

3. Is there anything else that could be causing it?

4. Also, while i'm asking questions...i noticed that the backing plate for the adjuster on the swingarm is a little loose. What's up with that? Seems like it shouldn't be...

Thanks for any input. i'm just anxious to get it running smooooooth...

[scratch]

2. Did you measure the floats?  What are they set to?

4. Is the rear wheel still aligned?  If so just tighten up the nut.  If not, loosen the axle nut, loosen the other adjuster nut, align, tighten the left side first then the right.  Tighten the axle and check chain slack.  Re-adjust as necessary.

[12thmonkey]

Just so no one gets mad at me for asking another rejetting question that's been asked a million times...i found people that had the slip-on and a K&N and rejetted. But not just the slip-on...

Does that mean i need a K&N too? Those were mods i never really planned to do...but now i bought a bike with a slip-on...  

[12thmonkey]

2. Did you measure the floats?  What are they set to?

No...unfortunately didn't think to do it while the carbs were apart. And i'm gonna try to get some clear hose tonight...

4. Is the rear wheel still aligned?  If so just tighten up the nut.  If not, loosen the axle nut, loosen the other adjuster nut, align, tighten the left side first then the right.  Tighten the axle and check chain slack.  Re-adjust as necessary.

The two plates are at the same notch on the swingarm. Is there another way to verify alignment? i guess, tightening that back nut while the axle nuts are tightened won't affect alignment?

[scratch]

2. Did you measure the floats?  What are they set to?

No...unfortunately didn't think to do it while the carbs were apart. And i'm gonna try to get some clear hose tonight...

That would be best.

4. Is the rear wheel still aligned?  If so just tighten up the nut.  If not, loosen the axle nut, loosen the other adjuster nut, align, tighten the left side first then the right.  Tighten the axle and check chain slack.  Re-adjust as necessary.

The two plates are at the same notch on the swingarm. Is there another way to verify alignment? i guess, tightening that back nut while the axle nuts are tightened won't affect alignment?

Correct.  Aligning the sprocket with the chain.  Aligning the edges of the tire with the swingarm, or frame (the farther something is, the less deviation from true).

[The Buddha]

A stock GS needs to be rejetted. You put a pipe ... yes rejet. Put a K&N and pipe and you're done, it may not even run without a rejet.
The rest of your bike's problems seem like they have prolly hit everyone's bike, just be a man and fix it.
BTW when did buying another bike solve anything.
I'll fix the old one, and then when its running fix the new one and sell it.
If you're gonna own one, you're gonna have to work on it.
Cool.
Srinath.

[12thmonkey]

Srinath - just to clarify, i understand i'm going to have to work on a bike. i bought the '96 as my first bike, and didn't really know what to look for. It seems like the previous owner(s) didn't take care of it very well at all. It's left me stranded too many times. If i had a car to get me to work while the bike is inoperable...that'd be a different story. But it's my only means of transportation. i can't afford to have something that is breaking down on me all the time, and sitting unusable because i haven't had the time to figure out what's wrong and fixe it. So buying one that was newer, had lower miles and a better maintenance record was a good, practical decision. Now that i have transportation, i can focus on fixing the first one and selling it.

i just got some clear hose...i'll check the float heights tomorrow morning before work.

[12thmonkey]

Oh, and in terms of rejetting, should i go with 20 pilots, 62.5 mid, 137.5 mains, and raise the needles 1mm? (taken from TheGoodGuy from an old thread). And if so, i can get those parts from the stealership (i think i'll try and stop after i get off work tomorrow)?

[Alphamazing]

Oh, and in terms of rejetting, should i go with 20 pilots, 62.5 mid, 137.5 mains, and raise the needles 1mm? (taken from TheGoodGuy from an old thread). And if so, i can get those parts from the stealership (i think i'll try and stop after i get off work tomorrow)?

With the slip on you might run a little rich. I used that jetting (minus the needle shim) when I had a K&N drop in without the restrictor and I was running rich from the midrange up.

Personally, I think 20/62.5/135 will work fairly well, maybe even 132.5s. PM me if you need some 132.5/135/62.5 jets. I have extras.

[The Buddha]

Pipe and stock filter ... 1 up on pilots, 1 up on mains, 1 washer and 3 turns.
Pipe and K&N without restrictor - 2 up on mains.
Pipe and Pod K&N. I'd say 9-10 up on mains.
I didn't change the mids in the one I did couple months ago. He said it was great.
But hey I gotta do my own investigation ... But anyway ... starting point.
Swap the phillips bolts for allen head 4 mm bolts and you can yank off the floats and change jets without taking anything else off.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Kerry]

Oh, and in terms of rejetting, should i go with 20 pilots, 62.5 mid, 137.5 mains, and raise the needles 1mm? (taken from TheGoodGuy from an old thread).

Hang on.  Your '96 carbs don't even have "mid" jets.  Maybe Srinath could post a similar summary for pre-'01 carbs.

[The Buddha]

I think he was talking about his 01.
I hope ... else its gonna look really funny when he "fits" mid mains for the 96.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Chris2P]

Make sure you clean the carbs really well.  Follow the carb cleaning tutorial below.  Make sure all the vaccum passage ways are clear ( I used the super thin brushes that come in a airbrush cleaning kit)  If anything that needs to be cleaned has stripped screws, get those screws out, even if you have to take it to a shop.  Are all the O rings in good shape, how about the real small one on top of the diaphram?  If you are going to rejet because of the pipe, follow the rejetting matrix.  Put carb back on and see if the bike starts and then balance them with the homemade balancer  (in faq section).  Basically, dont overlook the obvious and take the position on focusing on whats in front of you instead of looking for outside alternatives.  Anyway that's what works for me.

Hope this helps

Chris


http://www.angelfire.com/mt2/mikesgs500/rejetting/

[LimaXray]

What do you mean by stripped? As in the screw head is rounded out and you can no longer the a phillips head screw driver to grab?  Get a dremel tool and cut yourself a nice deep slot in that screw with a cutting disc.   Put the carbs on a hard solid surface (like the ground), then take a power drill with a slotted bit that fits nicely in the slot you made and press into those screws with all your weight (like have the power drill pressing against your sternum) as you slowly back them out.  Should work like a charm.  Then go to Sears and get yourself some stainless steel allen head bolts with the same dimesions as the screws you took out (think they are M4, but not sure about the length, just take the old screws with you to figure it out).

[12thmonkey]

What do you mean by stripped? As in the screw head is rounded out and you can no longer the a phillips head screw driver to grab?

Yeah, exactly. i'll try your dremel trick as soon as i can. So, Sears will have the right size replacement screws? Cool...

Hang on.  Your '96 carbs don't even have "mid" jets.  Maybe Srinath could post a similar summary for pre-'01 carbs

It's an '02.



Chris, thanks for the link. Once i get those float screws swapped out, i'll give it a better cleaning. From what i saw, the o rings seemed ok. That tiny one on top of the diaphragm was fine.

Srinath, thanks for the input. The rejetting matrix doesn't seem to have an advised setup for a slip-on with stock filter.

And Alpha, thanks for the jet offer...i sent you a PM...

[LimaXray]

So, Sears will have the right size replacement screws? Cool...

Any Sears with a half decent hardware section will have them, that's where I got mine... you can probably find them at a Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc too