Questons about changing tires

[bryanwescoe]

I have a couple questions about the tire changing process.  My dad bought a tire mounting tool that like bolts to the ground and the wall and you can change tires yourself.  It's really pretty nifty.  Anyway, I have new tires and i need to get the old wheels off the bike to change the tires.  It all seems pretty straightforward.  Is there anything special i should know? 

Also, if anyone with a service manual could help me out with torque spec values, i'd appreciate that.  I need specs for the front axle, pinch nuts for front axle, front and rear caliper mounting bolts, rear axle, and chain adjustment nuts/bolts.  My bike has a Wileyco pipe so no center stand....any suggestions on supporting the bike? Would just a cinderblock or something solid across the bottom of the frame work?

[OctaneMotorsports]

The one tip I can give you is that when you take your wheels off, put a piece of thin cardboard in between the brake pads because if you happen to squeze the lever or hit the pedal (ALWAYS seems to happen when the wheels are off) the pads will stick together and it's a pain to pry them apart.

[94suzuki500]

First off go buy a clymer manual, that way you have it for future reference.  If you still have your center stand you can put it on the bike I am sure and use it just to prop the bike up but I am sure a cinder block will work fine.  But you might want to use some wood ontop of the cinder block to prevent scratches.  Also a nifty way to do it but could be alittle unstable is jacking up the right side of the bike so it is leaning on the front wheel and kickstand.  I did it on my zx6r raising the rear end back to stock height and it worked fine.  Just make sure you have something clamping the front brake lever down so it wont roll foward off the kickstand.  For the front end you can use the cinder block and wood and you might have to place something heavy on the rear like dog food (kerry used it in his how to)  To lift the front wheel off the ground.  But if you still have the center stand you can still probably use it.  I used mine when I had an aftermarket exhaust for oil changes and doing tires and such.  Good luck.

[bryanwescoe]

First off go buy a clymer manual, that way you have it for future reference.  If you still have your center stand you can put it on the bike I am sure and use it just to prop the bike up but I am sure a cinder block will work fine.  But you might want to use some wood ontop of the cinder block to prevent scratches.  Also a nifty way to do it but could be alittle unstable is jacking up the right side of the bike so it is leaning on the front wheel and kickstand.  I did it on my zx6r raising the rear end back to stock height and it worked fine.  Just make sure you have something clamping the front brake lever down so it wont roll foward off the kickstand.  For the front end you can use the cinder block and wood and you might have to place something heavy on the rear like dog food (kerry used it in his how to)  To lift the front wheel off the ground.  But if you still have the center stand you can still probably use it.  I used mine when I had an aftermarket exhaust for oil changes and doing tires and such.  Good luck.

I plan on buying a Clymer manual but it wont get to me by friday morning at this point.  The bike is at my parents house and im at college.  Im going back thursday night to change the tires and go for a ride with some people on friday.  If you have a Clymer manual, would you mind looking the torque specs up?  This goes for anyone.  Thanks.

[Flywheel]

I just finished swapping out the stock Excedras for Sport Demons yesterday. Man, do I ever regret doing it the old fashioned way (with MC tire levers)! The amount of time, frustration and bruises far exceeded the cost of one of those bolt-down changing tools. Oh well, live and learn; next time I need to change them, I'll know exactly how to avoid all those scratches. 

[Alphamazing]

I just finished swapping out the stock Excedras for Sport Demons yesterday. Man, do I ever regret doing it the old fashioned way (with MC tire levers)! The amount of time, frustration and bruises far exceeded the cost of one of those bolt-down changing tools. Oh well, live and learn; next time I need to change them, I'll know exactly how to avoid all those scratches. 

I change my tires using levers, soapy water, and 2x6s to break the bead. After a few you get the hang of it and can change a tire pretty fast. The first one I ever did took me 3 hours. Now I can do it in less than 30 minutes, and that's only after doing 2 or 3.

[bryanwescoe]

Can you give me torque specs for all the asscioated fasteners? You seem to have done this once or twice before.  Thanks.

[Alphamazing]

Can you give me torque specs for all the asscioated fasteners? You seem to have done this once or twice before.  Thanks.

You mean the nuts and bolts for the front and rear wheel?

From the Clymer's manual:

Front Axle Nut (cotter pin) -- 36-52 Nm -- 26-38 ft-lbs
Front Axle Nut (self locking) -- 40-58 Nm -- 29-42 ft-lbs

Rear Axle Nut (self locking) -- 60-96 Nm -- 44-70 ft-lbs
Rear Axle Nut (cotter pin) -- 50-80 Nm -- 36-59 ft-lbs

Whichever type you have, use that one's specifications. For example, my front wheel has a cotter pin, but my rear wheel has a self locking nut (at least, I think it does).

[bryanwescoe]

Can you give me torque specs for all the asscioated fasteners? You seem to have done this once or twice before.  Thanks.

You mean the nuts and bolts for the front and rear wheel?

From the Clymer's manual:

Front Axle Nut (cotter pin) -- 36-52 Nm -- 26-38 ft-lbs
Front Axle Nut (self locking) -- 40-58 Nm -- 29-42 ft-lbs

Rear Axle Nut (self locking) -- 60-96 Nm -- 44-70 ft-lbs
Rear Axle Nut (cotter pin) -- 50-80 Nm -- 36-59 ft-lbs

Whichever type you have, use that one's specifications. For example, my front wheel has a cotter pin, but my rear wheel has a self locking nut (at least, I think it does).

Thanks, thats what i was looking for.  I also could use brake caliper specifications and anything relating to the rear sprocket/chain i might need to know.  Thanks

[ducati_nolan]

I don't know what you mean by brake caliper specs? You shouldn't need to mess with it. Just don't touch the brake levers with the wheels off. If it's hard to get the dik back in between the pads you can pry them apart gently.

For the chain, put the wheel back on with the adjusters at their forward most point to make it easy to get it back together, then turn the adjusters evenly and the same number of turns untill you have about an inch of slack in the chain while on the side stand. I believe the manual calls for 0.8"-1.2" Better a little loose than too tight.
Good luck with the tire change, hope you get it done in time for the ride. 

[bryanwescoe]

Thanks a lot guys.  Hopefully all goes well with the change.  Looks like its gonna be in the mid to high 70s and sunny tomorrow.  Couldnt ask for better riding weather.