Clutch slipping problem

[Pkaaso]

I got my 89' w/40,000 miles running and the clutch was slipping.  I replace the cluth plates, the disks and the springs.  EBC brand new.  I was a little better but still will slip if I lay in at 5,000 or higher.  All adjustments perfect.  From what I've read, the stock clutch should work great.

Mobil 10/40 mineral oil, clean and changed.  

Did I miss something when I changed these parts?  Are there other parts that need changing?

What kind of clutch MODs are available for the GS?
I did a search on this board but did not find my answer.

Any advice?
Paul

[Bob Broussard]

I didn't know EBC made clutch plates. I've used Barnett and stock plates. I've had the clutch in my racebike slip lately. It would do it when I first got onto the track.
I would baby it a little and eventually it would start grabbing again. What I've noticed every time I've taken it apart, is the 1st fiber plate is slipping. The first plate you put in is a friction plate. The side that contacts the clutch basket gets glazed and slips.
Try shuffling the plates so a different one goes on first. I am going to try a Barnett plate first with the rest stock and see how that works. The Barnett is a little grabby and makes it hard to shift into neutral while standing still.
The stock plates are better for this.
I don't know if any other springs will fit. You could shim them up if you could make spacers to fit.
Maybe shim half the springs so it's not too stiff.

[Pkaaso]

Bob,

When you say the first friction plate, do you mean the first one installed against the inter most basket plate?

The clutch parts I took out (original clutch) looked good to me, no real wear or blueing.

Could oil choice be a problem?  I'm using Mobil 10/40wt now could a thicker oil make a difference?

I think I will try the "shim the springs" mod starting with every other bolt.

Thanks,
Paul

[Bob Broussard]

When I say the first friction plate, I mean the first one you install when you start putting the plates in the basket.
I don't think the oil is the problem. However, motorcycle oil is designed to work with a wet clutch.
If you have car oil it may have something to do with it. I run Motul 15/50 full synthetic with no problems.

I have so many old used clutches I just throw in another one when It starts to slip. And that has only happened a couple times this season. I've never even tried shimming the springs yet.

[Pkaaso]

Have you ever had to replace the basket and the pressure plate?

Another buddy sugested I go with an oil that doesn't have the detergent agent in it.  I may go with Amsol to see if this helps with the clutch.  I have read from some guys here that it makes the clutch worse.

I'll let you know on the shimming proceedure.  Do you have a guess on the thickness to start with?

Thanks a million,
Paul

[Wrencher]

Good luck finding an oil without detergents.

Watch for "Friction Modifiers" or "Energy Conserving" on the bottle. If its printed on the bottle, wet clutches will have problems. I have not been able to find "car oil" in 10-30 or 10-40 that didn't have this label. Not to say its not out there, but it seems to be the exception not the rule.

I haven't kept up or searched lately, but I am sure there are other oil threads out there, so I will leave it at that.

[Blueknyt]

Just a thought

Clutch Mod? ya want one?. i have one for ya, and its working like a camp so far.


simple, find an old GS450, pull out the clutch parts, save the springs, bolts and plates. sort through the fibre plate, pull out about 6 of the best ones, or if you like buy new ones,(soak them in motor oil for 24hours before installing) the IDEA, is to take an extra steel plate from the gs450 and use it as a spacer. stagger stact the rest of the plates like you normaly would ending with a fiber plate then pressure plate. now, use the shorter gs450 springs and bolts, tighten down normaly in star pattern and reinstall the cover, add oil ect ect

do this mod at own risks. it works for me, im 6' 250 and it DOES grab. has been for 4 months thus far.