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Engine Dies when I pull in the clutch

Started by El Bandito, November 09, 2006, 05:36:37 PM

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El Bandito

Ok, so I did do a search to try and find this so if I missed something sorry for the repost.

So my bike starts fine with the choke on, then I have to adjust the idle screw a little so it won't die when I turn the choke off. The bike then seems to idle fine at around 1200.

The problem is that when I rev the engine, it will rev up and then come down past 1200 and usually will die. This means I keep turning up the idle speed until it doesn't die after I rev. For example, if I am riding during the first few minutes (probably 20 or so) and come to stoplight or some situation where I disengage the clutch, the engine will do the same thing and quit on me. It's like the higher I rev it while riding the more likely it is to die when I pull in the clutch. So I have to adjust the idle screw until it is higher than I usually would have it, then if I get on a fast road with no lights, the engine gets pretty warm and when I do finally get to a light or something it will be idling high, forcing me to adjust the idle speed screw while at the stoplight.

I'm guessing my carbs could use a good cleaning but would that take care of what I described? Thanks. Oh and any other insight/suggestions are much appreciated.

-Brian

vsboxerboy

herm well, that sounds plenty dangerous....

Any idea how the bike is running in terms of lean/rich by any chance? Or have you tried setting the idle a bit higher say 2000?
1991 GS500E | K&N Drop In | Rejet 127.5/40 | Ignition Advancer |

                                ***UCSB***

El Bandito

I have tried setting it higher, the problem with that is when I rev it takes way longer than it should for the revs to come down.

On a side note, does anyone know of any Seattle area shops that are reliable and do good work, if say I wanted them to clean my carbs and what not and not rip me off/f up?

I would do it myself but I'm living at college right now and have no tools or space to do it myself.

hmmmnz

to me it sounds like an air leak of some description, cheak you have no air leaks. (get some wd40 and spray at the boots both between carbs and engine and between airbox and carb) while the bike is running, if the revs change, then you have a leak
good luck
pod filters, costum r6 quill exhaust(no baffles)40/140 jets, heavy duty springs, sv650 rear shock, gsxr srad tail, bandit 600 4.5 inch rim with 150 tyre, gsx twin disc front end "1995 pocket rocket"  ridden by a kiwi in scotland

RVertigo

My Bug did the same thing...  Push in the clutch and it would die.  :icon_confused:

The carbs were all out of wack on that thing...  It's not really a "low idle" that's causing it, it's a mixture or valve problem...  Your RPMs will dive for a short time, but they dive so much that the engine dies.


As far as shops, I've only had experience with two...  And I like Aurora Suzuki.  They're not exactly cheap, but they've taken pretty good care of my GS...

There are TONS of shops around Seattle...  If you want a wider Seattle audience, post something on PNWRiders...  OR search around there.

El Bandito

So would it be worth it to take it up there? I mean I don't really have a place to work on it here, any idea on how much it would cost to get it running like new again?

scratch

Sounds more like you haven't set the idle when warm.  After riding 15-20 minutes, set the idle to 1200-1300rpm.  On the next morning, after using the choke for 1 minute, use the throttle to keep the bike from dying.  After 20 minute of riding, see what the idle is.

Has the bike been sitting for a week or so?
The motorcycle is no longer the hobby, the skill has become the hobby.

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good judgement trumps good skills every time.

RVertigo

Quote from: El Bandito on November 14, 2006, 04:55:51 PMSo would it be worth it to take it up there?
I mean I don't really have a place to work on it here, any idea on how much it would cost to get it running like new again?
Well...  There are tons of moto shops, I've only been to a couple...  So...  "Worth it" is really a question for you...

Cost?  That all depends on what's wrong with it...  I think they're $75/Hour... 

You could call the shop and talk to them about the issue to get an idea about what may be wrong and/or how much it might cost...

Or bring it by and have them take a peak at it...

Ben is the Service manager...  He's "THE MAN." :thumb:


My Co-worker's Sister's Boyfriend works there too...  If that means anything to you.   :dunno_white:

El Bandito

Quote from: scratch on November 14, 2006, 05:26:11 PM
Sounds more like you haven't set the idle when warm.  After riding 15-20 minutes, set the idle to 1200-1300rpm.  On the next morning, after using the choke for 1 minute, use the throttle to keep the bike from dying.  After 20 minute of riding, see what the idle is.

Has the bike been sitting for a week or so?

Yes it's been sitting for about a week. I try and ride it at least once a week for about an hour. I would use the throttle to keep the bike from dying and that is what I usually do but it is kind of hard if I'm braking to use the front brake and rev the engine to keep it from dying. Should I just set the idle higher than normal when first starting, then adjust it when warm? Would taking it in for a "tune-up" help the situation. Sorry I'm a bike newbie.

RobTheTyrant

My car did the same thing after I put my new CAI on and didn't quite get the clamps tightened down as good as I should have.  It did the same thing, false air into the engine... although it never died, just took FOREVER to idle down.  I'd check the little things before I took somewhere and spent money.  Check your intake track... if that doens't fix it, check your carbs cause the dies without clutch thing sounds like a fuel scarcity issue  :dunno_white:  Cause thats how i know i have to switch to reserve.  So it could be a combo of the two.  but start small man.
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