Remember how everyone complains about the header bolts being uber tight?

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

Mine are the opposite. I just started the bike up, and drove it for 10 seconds to move it to the front of the house to wash. While I was washing it, I noticed that on the left side, BOTH header bolts are gone, and the piece is just sliding up and down the headers. Can I just take one of the bolts out of the other side and go to home depot to get 2 replacements (Along with some anti-size compound)

[coll0412]

It would be best to not ride it at all, but if that is your only option then yes

[ducati_nolan]

Can I just take one of the bolts out of the other side and go to home depot to get 2 replacements (Along with some anti-size compound)

Yeah, you can. At about every other oil change (or valve clearance check) I'll loosen then re-tighten the header bolts. If they're really hard to loosen, I'll pull them out and put some more anti sieze on them. This keeps them from coming loose or siezing up.

You could also drill some really small holes through the heads of the bolts and safety wire them to keep them from coming loose.

[galahs]

Yeah, you can. At about every other oil change (or valve clearance check) I'll loosen then re-tighten the header bolts. If they're really hard to loosen, I'll pull them out and put some more anti sieze on them. This keeps them from coming loose or siezing up.

Not a bad idea at all. I might do that myself 

[yupoo]

I went to Ace hardware and got some replacements very easily. Not sure what was on it originally but i have ally wrench bolts on it now

[Wrecent_Wryder]

Y6

[ashman]

8mm by 35 or 40mm long. I did a trip last summer and two of mine had come out, I only noticed cuz of the rattling sound coming from the header. After a recent headache w/ mine I now check them every oil change also and use antisieze.

-Ash

[l3uddha]

safety wiring is a great idea for them. You wont have to torque them way the hell down or worry about them falling off again.

same with the oil-drain plug.

[domas]

Use copper grease as an anti-seize stuff. It is a bit abrasive and wont let screws out easily as other greases, prevents seizing and is very temperature resistant. If you can find some give it a try, you will end up applying it to all your bolts  .

[Susuki_Jah]

no one has mentioned this yet, but the bolts at your local hardware store arent heat treated to use with high exhaust temps. the original bolts they use in the GS and other motorcycles for that matter are heat treated. after time the bolts that are not heat treated will become brittle and could possibly break off. Now with tha said I took the chance and got replacement head bolts although the first chance I get im ordering heat treated bolts made for exhuast.

[makenzie71]

Why do you guys have so much trouble with this stuff?  I don't have any problems...but I'm manstrong.

Any parts store will have the bolts.

[sledge]

Heat treated bolts?? no such thing  The original bolts are 12.9 hi-tensile steel but thats only because its a standard grade steel for Socket Cap-head bolts.  Any standard 8.8 hi-tensile bolt or machine-screw will do and the heat wont effect it....if heat was an issue I would be worried about a lot of other metal parts that reach those sort of temperatures.

Take the old bolts out, replace them with chrome plated studs and use chrome plated nuts to hold the header flange. If you use a stud it doesnt have to be removed from the head so it doesnt matter if it siezes and a chrome plated nut will never seize on a chrome plated thread. This is the way manufactures used to do it before cost became an issue, go and look at an old Triumph BMW or Ducati. Suzuki dont do this on the GS5 purely to save pennies.

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

Good advice Sledge, I'll take a look at Home Depot tomorrow, since that's about my only choice right now..

[Wrecent_Wryder]

[5

[sledge]

I doubt the local hardware store will stock chrome plated studs but there are plenty of specialist suppliers about who will provide them. If you were really keen on you could even have them made and plated yourself. I have bought them in the past from this company, they dont list them on the website but they can supply them. http://www.namrick.co.uk/.
There must be a similar outfit over the pond.

[sledge]

ThomasNet is a good place to start looking for Engineering products and services. I just tried a search for chrome-plated bolts and got 17 returns. Someone will have them but you will have do some digging.

http://www.thomasnet.com/nsearch.html?cov=NA&heading=96146311&sa=97000747&navsec=relbox

[Mandres]

Heat treated bolts?? no such thing  The original bolts are 12.9 hi-tensile steel but thats only because its a standard grade steel for Socket Cap-head bolts.  Any standard 8.8 hi-tensile bolt or machine-screw will do and the heat wont effect it....if heat was an issue I would be worried about a lot of other metal parts that reach those sort of temperatures.

Take the old bolts out, replace them with chrome plated studs and use chrome plated nuts to hold the header flange. If you use a stud it doesnt have to be removed from the head so it doesnt matter if it siezes and a chrome plated nut will never seize on a chrome plated thread. This is the way manufactures used to do it before cost became an issue, go and look at an old Triumph BMW or Ducati. Suzuki dont do this on the GS5 purely to save pennies.

That's a good idea, I think I'll do the same thing.  Would you recommend using Loc-Tite or something on the studs to keep them from loosening when the nuts are removed?

[sledge]

I have never used it, I dont think its needed, however, some Loctitie or a similar thread locking compound wouldnt do any harm but my guess is that after the head goes through a few heating and cooling cycles it would burn off and loose its effect. Maybe there is some hi-temp compound available that will withstand the heat??
I have fitted several sets of chrome studs to various bikes I have owned in the past. On some resto`s with odd imperial threads like UNC I have made them myself and had them plated. After removing the original bolts chase the threads out with a plug tap to clean them up. They should go home finger tight and then just nip them up using two nuts locked together on the stud. What is vitaly important when fitting studs is that the stud fully bottoms out in the hole as it locks up. You can tell this by looking to see if there is a still a few threads visible on the stud when it tightens up. If you tighten it up until you run out of male thread and hit the shank, the stud will become stressed on the juncture and likely to shear when the nut is tightened. Another tip is to slightly countersink the rim of the hole. When the nut is tightened its trying to pull the stud out and it can cause a slight raised lip to form around the edge of the hole. In some circumstances this lip can prevent close fitting parts from sealing together properly, for example the cylinder base and crankcase joint face but it wont be an issue on a exhaust header with a thickish gasket.
Avoid stainless-steel studs. Despite never corroding they lack tensile strength, shear easily and are prone to `picking-up`

[Susuki_Jah]

Heat treated bolts?? no such thing  The original bolts are 12.9 hi-tensile steel but thats only because its a standard grade steel for Socket Cap-head bolts.  Any standard 8.8 hi-tensile bolt or machine-screw will do and the heat wont effect it....if heat was an issue I would be worried about a lot of other metal parts that reach those sort of temperatures.

Take the old bolts out, replace them with chrome plated studs and use chrome plated nuts to hold the header flange. If you use a stud it doesnt have to be removed from the head so it doesnt matter if it siezes and a chrome plated nut will never seize on a chrome plated thread. This is the way manufactures used to do it before cost became an issue, go and look at an old Triumph BMW or Ducati. Suzuki dont do this on the GS5 purely to save pennies.

well there is such thing as heat treated steel that is how certain properties are aquired. check the machinist hand book if you think im wrong.

read this little tid bit.

There are three grades of bolt in common use in Australia. Most bolts which you will come across will only deviate slightly from these three grades. The lowest grade is 4.6, commonly known as commercial grade. Next comes grade 8.8, known as structural grade, and finally, the highest grade is 12.9, known as high tensile bolts. The first number represents the ultimate tensile strength of the bolt, 400 Mpa, 800 Mpa or 1200 Mpa respectively. The second number represents the point at which the bolt will permanently stretch. (Officially, the 0.2% proof load stress). A 4.6 bolt permanently stretches at 60% of its ultimate, an 8.8 at 80% and a 12.9 at 90 %.


Grade 12.9 bolts
Grade 12.9 bolts are most often supplied as socket head bolts or socket head cap screws with hexagon socket (Allen Key) drives. Corvettes use a lot of Torx drives, and there are other types of patented and tamper proof drives such as Safe-T drive. Grade 12.9 bolts can also be obtained with hexagon heads. Popular brands of grade 12.9 bolts are Unbrako and Holo-chrome. It is possible to obtain zinc or chrome plated versions, but not galvanised. Galvanising destroys the heat treatment of the steel. Beware! it is not possible to source 12.9 grade stainless steel bolts. 316 and 304 stainless steel will only be equivalent to grade 4.6. They may look cute in an engine bay, but they do not meet the grade. Grade 12.9 nuts are not made.
Grade 8.8 bolts are usually supplied as hexagon head bolts, often galvanised, sometimes zinc plated, but usually black. They are distinguished by the three radial lines on the head, or these day, by the numerals 8.8 stamped on the head. Grade 8.8 nuts are taller than grade 4.6, but do not have any distinguishing marks
Grade 4.6 bolts come in a vast array of configurations. Hexagon head, countersunk slot drive, galvanised, zinc plated, oxy-sealed (ie gold zinc plating), chrome plated. On a motor vehicle, grade 4.6 bolts are used to hold on trim parts and light objects. Grade If you need to replace a bolt, and the grade is doubtful, use grade 8.8 and be safe. The head of a grade 4.6 bolts is easily scratched with a file, not so a 8.8 bolt.

Correct design of a bolted joint is quite involved. Serious joints are designed on the basis of maximum stretch in the bolt, with minimum cyclical fluctuation of stresses in the bolt under working conditions. In order to achieve this aim, high tensile bolts are pre-tensioned, bolts are made as long as possible, and the minimum size bolt is used. Often the shank of a bolt (ie a cylinder head stud) is reduced in area to assist. Bolted joint design too complex to delve into here. The average Corvette enthusiast will be replacing bolts in an existing designed joint and need not worry to much about the design of joints.


How do you tighten a bolt?
Grade 12.9 bolts are tightened with a torque wrench, right up to their 90% proof load. There is no other effective way to tighten a grade 12.9 bolt. Automotive manuals will give the tightening torque required. Grade 12.9 bolts do not work effectively with spring washers or shakeproof washers. These don't bite into the hardened surface of the bolt. There are only two ways of adding extra security to grade 12.9 bolts. Use Loctite on the threads or drill the heads and wire the bolts. It is possible to buy pre-drilled cap screws. Mating surfaces of a 12.9 bolted joint are not painted. For serious work, never re-use a fully tensioned 12.9 bolt.

Grade 8.8 bolts are tightened by the part turn method, torque wrench, or by using load indicating washers. In the part turn method, the bolt is done up to snug tight, and then advanced one, two three flats of the hexagon, depending on the size, length etc. The torque wrench method is used commonly, often in the form of an air operated rattle gun. Special load indicating washers, such as Coronet washers can be used. These have dimples which indent the mating surface. A feeler gauge is used to determine the pre-load. Grade 8.8 Bolts are used in High Strength Friction Grip applications. If this is the case, the mating surfaces must not be painted or galvanised. For added security of the joint , use any one of the plethora of systems such as spring washers, shakeproof washers, Loctite, wired heads, split pins and castle nuts, locking tabs, lock nut or patented nut systems (Nyloc is common). For serious work, use castle nuts, either with split pins or wired together in groups. Also for serious work, do not re-use fully tensioned grade 8.8 bolts, Nylocs, split pins etc.

Grade 4.6 bolts are not pre-tensioned in the joint. They are tightened to snug tight only. For all intents, this means a reasonable hand effort on a spanner. Use good springy chrome-moly spanners, and never put an extension bar on the spanner. All of the security systems available for 8.8 bolts are available on 4.6 bolts. If you need much more than a spring washer, question whether the joint really requires an 8.8 bolt. Mating surfaces of a grade 4.6 bolted joint are usually painted prior to assembly.

http://www.qldcorvetteclub.com.au/tech/tech_talk/bolts.htm




im not saying grade 8.8 wont work just showing that 12.9 grade bolts are heat treated.






check out the chart
http://www.textronfasteningsystems.com/eng_tools_f/grades.html

[ohgood]

engine joe say:

put em 2 header bolts in toolpouch.
put em maglight under seat to keep em toolpouch satisfied.