does the right carb need a vacuum cap?

[krypto35]

bike has been running with a high idle and I noticed the right carb doesn't have a vacuum cap - does it need one?  NOT the vacuum cap on the top (on black carb cap) but the vacuum port ON THE SIDE that is the same as the one that hooks up to the petcock vacuum line on the LEFT carb - that is the port that is sitting wide open on the right carb with no cap - is it causing all my problems?

[spc]

I just checked the schematic in my haynes manual and physically checked my carb neither of em show a cap...........  Have you checked your Idle Screw.  My bike was idling high once and the casing for the choke cable had actually slipped out of its bracket making it basically like I always had the choke about 3/4 open.  Check that one too................   Good Luck!!!!

[krypto35]

damm, just rummaged through the basement and found some spare caps.  No the idle screw isn't even coming into play - the trottle bottoms out BEFORE it even touched the idle screw, bike revs about 2k when warm.  All known vacuum ports (besides aforementioned) are capped and NOT leaking, the carb boots are completely sealed and not leaking - and I'm in the middle of fighting to sync the carbs and it's just not happening - the more they look synced (oil leveling out in homemade tool), the way more ridiculously higher the revs climb

-carbs boots sealed, not leaking - checked by spraying w/ wd40 while running
-o-rings in place under carb spring caps
-vacuum ports capped/connected to petcock w/ no leaks
-throttle and choke bottomed out(not binding, plenty of slack)
-idle screw bottomed out (backed out all the way, out of the equation)

is it just normal for a bike with big jets/air filter/exhaust to idle at 2100rpm?!

[spc]

Ohhh shaZam!,  I'm lost past that    i've heard of higher RPM  with mods but not that much higher..................

[krypto35]

ok - so my sollution - ditch the homemade sync tool, add a vacuum cap to where there probably doesn't need to be one, and synced the carbs until they reached their lowest RPMs somewhere in the middle - cuz if u go too far one way or the other the revs increase as that cylinder takes over and devours incoming air/fuel - so i figured the lowest point in the RPM range was where the cylinders are equaling each other out, then I brought the idle screw into play and things seem to be peachy - takin' er for a ride right now, needed an excuse to return my loverly grandma's cakepans so she can gimme a re-fill on homebaked goodness.  letchas know how it turns out.

my sync-by-default method seem mentally sound?!

[krypto35]

good - i'm golden!!!!! i actually have to use the idle screw to keep the thing running now!  Acts more like a stock bike in regard to choke and idle screw now.... guess my sync method worked.  HOWEVER, now I have a bog around 6k rpm when I drop the hammer, onto the search engine......

[scratch]

bike has been running with a high idle and I noticed the right carb doesn't have a vacuum cap - does it need one?  NOT the vacuum cap on the top (on black carb cap) but the vacuum port ON THE SIDE that is the same as the one that hooks up to the petcock vacuum line on the LEFT carb - that is the port that is sitting wide open on the right carb with no cap - is it causing all my problems?

You have a '95 model.  If you have '95 carbs, yes no, you do not need that port to be capped.

-that is the port that is sitting wide open on the right carb with no cap - is it causing all my problems?

Are you saying that port is not plugged on your right carb?

The bog can be fixed by adding a .5mm thick washer under the circlip on the jet needle.

Edit: corrected after reading the question more carefully