I installed progressive springs on the GS. WOW!

[kml.krk]

One other thing.  You didn't mention which method you were going to use ... I assume you're going to do the "lazy man's method" from the top?  (Remove handlebar, remove cap, pull old spacer and spring out, put new spring and spacer in.)  If so, don't forget to do one side at a time.   

Even with this method, the fork oil coming off the old spring will look probably dirty enough that you'll ask yourself, "Maybe leaving that stuff in there isn't such a good idea?"  Like I said, it may not be the best option, but your bike won't fall apart right away or anything.

Yes. I'll do it the lazy way. I'll also check the oil, if it's very dirty I'll go and buy the fork oil and replace it.
Which brand do you recommend?? And how much money should I prepare? I know these are the noob questions. I can't do anything about it - I am a noob... 

[Kerry]

I guess my real question was to those who have done it, how they like and so forth.

O I C

I bought some nylon rod back then, but ended up installing Progressives before I got around to trying spacers by themselves.  So ... I'll have to defer to someone else on this one.

[Kerry]

if it's very dirty I'll go and buy the fork oil and replace it.

Actually, it's the replacing that's the hard part ... which is why you may want to leave it in for now, even if it's dirty.  There is no drain hole in these forks, unless they added one on the later models.  If you have some way to suck fluid from the bottom of a long tube, then you could give it a shot.... 

... otherwise, you're talking about supporting the front of the bike while you remove the front wheel (and a few other things) ... so you can get the forks off and turn them upside down to drain the old oil.  This is why I suggested that you wait until you have a better reason to do everything at once.

Which brand do you recommend?? And how much money should I prepare? I know these are the noob questions. I can't do anything about it - I am a noob... 

Hmmmm.  I don't have a favorite brand, but here are some of the listings in the [Chaparral] catalog for 10W oil.  I wouldn't be surprised if bike dealership prices are somewhat higher:

     Bel-Ray                $ 9    / liter
     Maxima                 $ 6    / liter
     Motorex Racing         $10    / liter (?)
     Motul Factory Line     $13    / liter
     Repsol (10W/20)        $ 3.99 / .5 L
     Spectro                $10    / liter
     Spectro SX             $ 6.40 / 16 oz
     YamaLube               $ 5    / pint

[kml.krk]

yeah. I know - replacing isn't easy, that's why I thought I could do it the lazy way also 
I'd use aquarium hose and just suck it to my mouth then spit it out... I'm just kiding    But I'd really use aquarium hose and very carefully suck the oil from the forks and before it gets to my mouth I'd pour it to some sort of container. I could also use veterinary syringe but I don't have any. Eventually If I have proper tools I'll do it the correct way.
Thanks very much for all your help! I owe you a beer    If we have any GS meeting on the east coast just remind me and I'll get you one.

[kml.krk]

Installed them yesterday. I didn't have a chance to test them yet.
The oil was very clean so I didn't bother to change it. The oil level is the thing that bothers me a little. Progressive instructions say that any oil level below 140mm measured from top is ok. I checked mine - the distance from the top of the forks to the oil level was 260mm. It seems to be low to me but according to instructions it should be fine.
What do you think?? What difference does it actually make? Should I put some more oil in?

[coll0412]

Did you do the lazy method? That fork oil measurement is made from the top of the fork when it is fully compressed and the springs removed.

[kml.krk]

OMG. I'm so dumb I did that on decompressed forks (with one spring in) Holy cow. I just didn't see that in instructions.

Do you know how much gs forks compress? How many millimeters (or inches). If I knew that I could do the math and I would know the actual oil level.
Thanks

[kml.krk]

OK. I found that.  Front suspension stroke:     120 mm (4.7 in)

so the math is easy: oil level measured when fork decompressed - front suspension stroke = actual oil level

let's put some numbers in the formula:     260mm - 120mm = 140mm 

as simple as that.
cool.
thanks for help

[RichDesmond]

OK. I found that.  Front suspension stroke:     120 mm (4.7 in)

so the math is easy: oil level measured when fork decompressed - front suspension stroke = actual oil level

let's put some numbers in the formula:     260mm - 120mm = 140mm 

as simple as that.
cool.
thanks for help

Not so simple. Your oil level is higher than you think it is. The why is left as an exercise. 

[Oklahoma_Mike]

Hey Rich you guys located in OKC? If so would you shoot me the address. I make it over there every other month or so I could just pick them up.

[Oklahoma_Mike]

I 'd like to know what you guys think about spacers? I just put in a set of spacers, probably 2 1/2 inches and the difference is huge. Very stiff front forks, super responsive, if a little twitchy. Any one else done it?

I did about a few months ago. It is better than stock, but a band-aid fix. I want to hit track days out at hallet (local track) so the spacers and stock springs are coming out and I will pick up some stright rate springs.

[kml.krk]

Not so simple. Your oil level is higher than you think it is. The why is left as an exercise. 

I don't know how you came to this conclusion but I'll stick to what I have done because I think it is correct - just think again about what I did. unless you wrote that to tease me 
cheers
KaMeL

[RichDesmond]

Not so simple. Your oil level is higher than you think it is. The why is left as an exercise. 

I don't know how you came to this conclusion but I'll stick to what I have done because I think it is correct - just think again about what I did. unless you wrote that to tease me 
cheers
KaMeL

No teasing, I'm serious.  Your method works if the fork tube wall is infinitely thin. Since it's not, the volume displaced by the metal as it drops into the oil causes the level to rise. Not a huge effect, but it's definitely measurable.

[RichDesmond]

Hey Rich you guys located in OKC? If so would you shoot me the address. I make it over there every other month or so I could just pick them up.

You gots mail. 

[kml.krk]

No teasing, I'm serious.  Your method works if the fork tube wall is infinitely thin. Since it's not, the volume displaced by the metal as it drops into the oil causes the level to rise. Not a huge effect, but it's definitely measurable.

I though about that 
but since the level of oil was acually little bit more than 260 I didn't bother to write 265 I just rounded it up to 260 for easyness of measurement 
I think I'll be fine the way it is right now
good catch though.
thanks

[RichDesmond]

No teasing, I'm serious.  Your method works if the fork tube wall is infinitely thin. Since it's not, the volume displaced by the metal as it drops into the oil causes the level to rise. Not a huge effect, but it's definitely measurable.

I though about that 
but since the level of oil was acually little bit more than 260 I didn't bother to write 265 I just rounded it up to 260 for easyness of measurement 
I think I'll be fine the way it is right now
good catch though.
thanks

Yeah, it's probably only 5mm or so, not enough to really matter. 

[kml.krk]

finally I took my bike for the test ride after progressives installation. It is a night and day difference!! I didn't ride much but I can tell you the difference is HUGE. It goes so smoothly and nicely over any uneven road pavements (holes) and feels very stable and controlable. Taking the turns is easier and you feel you have control over the bike not the bike having control over you.
modification worth the money!! one of the best bungs for the buck for GS.

[Foximus]

Nevermind... decided to go with sonic spring 80kg.

[JerGStwinguy]

Not so simple. Your oil level is higher than you think it is. The why is left as an exercise. 

I don't know how you came to this conclusion but I'll stick to what I have done because I think it is correct - just think again about what I did. unless you wrote that to tease me 
cheers
KaMeL

No teasing, I'm serious.  Your method works if the fork tube wall is infinitely thin. Since it's not, the volume displaced by the metal as it drops into the oil causes the level to rise. Not a huge effect, but it's definitely measurable.

Just to get this clear in my mind, if I replace the springs the "Lazy" way, what is the measurement of the oil level from the top uncompressed with the spring and spacer in place?  Also does it matter how the spring goes in and does the washer go on top of the spring and the spacer goes on top of the washer?  We have a 2000 E.  I would like to do this today but still don't have all the pieces of information yet.

Thanks to all

[Kerry]

Just to get this clear in my mind, if I replace the springs the "Lazy" way, what is the measurement of the oil level from the top uncompressed with the spring and spacer in place?

I'm not sure that anyone has ever bothered to take (or at least report) this measurement.  IIRC, the oil level measurement for the stock springs is 99mm from the top of the tube ... but that's taken with the tube vertical and compressed, and BEFORE the spring is inserted.

But I still think you can use this information to your advantage.  Check the info pamphlet that comes in the box with your Progressive springs, but I believe the same measurement for the Progressives is something like 124mm, for a difference of 25mm.

Assuming that you're planning to work on one fork at a time, I suggest that you:

• Remove the stock spring VERY slowly, letting as much oil as possible run off the spring as it comes out.
• Measure the oil level in the fork with the spring removed.  The easiest way I can think of would be to slide a metal rule into the fork, with the upper edge of the rule held against the front of the fork wall.  When you think you've gone far enough, note  the marking at the lip of the fork.  Pull the ruler out, read the oil level on one edge of the ruler and write it down.
• Use your method of choice to remove ~25mm (1 inch) of oil.  Check the level by using the SAME ruler method as before. (Whether you previously read the oil level from the lower edge of the ruler or the upper edge, do the same thing again.)

Also does it matter how the spring goes in and does the washer go on top of the spring and the spacer goes on top of the washer?

It doesn't really matter whether the "heavy" part of the spring goes in first or not.

You got the sequence right: spring, then washer, then spacer, then cap.