Re-jet'd and now it wont run...

[kml.krk]

hopefully something will eventually work out!

I have been running my GS on 93 octanes fuel since I got her... I see no problems with that although I'll switch to 87 next time I fill her up. I wonder if there will be any difference in the way she "behaves".

cheers and good luck!!

[Fast Jetta 97]

Yeah, thats why im so confussed, is because i ran 91 since i bought the bike, as well as it all ran great untill this jet kit, thats why im thinkin its gotta be somthing inside the carbs thats messed up, or somthin about how i installed it thats messed up....

[BassHz]

Firstly i would like to start out by say i love this forum, man everyone on here is so freekin helpful, i never get so much help on other forums. so props to everyone for that.... 

+1 to that.  I felt the same way when I had my problem.  BTW, kudos to you for being able to work on your carbs like this.  If I ever rejet, I hope Kerry or someone makes a video about disassembling the carbs.  Pictures are good but video rocks!

All I'm saying about the back-pressure is that it could be related along with other carb settings , etc.  When I was running with a modified stock can (with very little back-pressure), there was a definite dead spot in the throttle.  It would idle OK and had good top-end but somewhere in the middle, the damned thing practically stalled.  Especially when I would gently increase the throttle as opposed to cranking it quickly.  It's like the idle jet couldn't keep it going before the main jet kicked in.  This happened while standing still but was worse under load when accelerating.  Having the choke on full definately helped.

Since I've plugged up my can making more like stock, the dead spot has all but disappeared.

If you have a way, experiment with the exhaust without tearing it all apart.  Try decreasing the opening at the tailpipe to increase the back-pressure.  If you plug it up too much you'll have the opposite problem so be careful.  This may not be the only problem but could be part of several problems.  If nothing else, you'll be able to check it off the list of possible causes.

BH

[coll0412]

Hmm... the black sooty plugs means you are rich, but that would help you in your case...

Are the vacuum caps on the top of carbs?
Are you using the stock petcock(i.e. is the vacuum hose plugged into the port on the left carb)
What is your float height using the u-tube method when the carbs are installed?

The hose that connects to the top of the carbs and vents that carbs is open and venting to atmosphere right?

Any smoke or anything coming out the rear? black smoke when you try to rev it?
The problem is most likely the carbs, but we have to figure out if its not getting any gas when you rev it, or if its getting too much gas

[Fast Jetta 97]

Ok, i just got back in from another couple hour work session on it....

-Yes its the stock petcock (with the vac line attaching to the left carb)
-Yes, the top port on the carbs it vented to the atomoshpere like it shoudl be
-Yes, the caps are on the lids of hte carbs (like it should be)
-Yes, there is plenty of black smoke out the tail pipe, pretty much at all rpms... (idle, not much, At high revs, plenty)
-YES GETTIN PLENTY OF FUEL

-Using the u tube method of checkin the carbs...  Well the last time i checked it befor i took the carbs apart this last time, the level was just above the gasket, but i just re-did the carbs again and adjusted the float level, but i totally forgot to check the level this time... i will do that tommorrow to make sure....

[kml.krk]

When I was running with a modified stock can (with very little back-pressure), there was a definite dead spot in the throttle.  It would idle OK and had good top-end but somewhere in the middle, the damned thing practically stalled.

This was most likely caused by leaned carbs. The PO of your bike modified the exhaust but did not rejet the bike so you were to lean in the midrange. He should have rejetted the bike if he wanted the exhaust with better air flow. All he did was increasing the air flow without increasing the amount of fuel getting into the carbs, which made the leaned carbs even more lean... BAD idea.
Good you have solved your problem tho!
cheers
KaMeL

[DrtRydr23]

Ok, i just got back in from another couple hour work session on it....

-Yes its the stock petcock (with the vac line attaching to the left carb)
-Yes, the top port on the carbs it vented to the atomoshpere like it shoudl be
-Yes, the caps are on the lids of hte carbs (like it should be)
-Yes, there is plenty of black smoke out the tail pipe, pretty much at all rpms... (idle, not much, At high revs, plenty)
-YES GETTIN PLENTY OF FUEL

-Using the u tube method of checkin the carbs...  Well the last time i checked it befor i took the carbs apart this last time, the level was just above the gasket, but i just re-did the carbs again and adjusted the float level, but i totally forgot to check the level this time... i will do that tommorrow to make sure....

Try dropping the mains down a setting or two.  You seem to be super rich.  I think the DJ kit comes wiith 128 and 132 for stage 3 (or something like that).  At least try the smaller of the stage 3 jets.  You could also try lowering the needles.  You said you had the clips on the first notch.  Is that the highest or lowest notch?

[coll0412]

What main are you running?

Black smoke == super rich, I would suspect that to be your problem as well. What position did you put the needle in at?

[Fast Jetta 97]

Yeah i did the stage 3 jets, but i could try puttin in the stage 1 jets, but im though the mains only mattered in the high rpms, because i dont have any problems at all in the high rpms, the only problem i have is in the under 5 or 6 rpm range...

And the needles are on the 1st, as in the highest setting, which as i understand from my convo with the dyno jet guy thats the leanest notch for the needle.  as you go down the needle it gets richer.

_the jet kit i got comes with... 118's, 122's, 128's, and 134's.... right now i have the 134's in it...

[DrtRydr23]

Yeah i did the stage 3 jets, but i could try puttin in the stage 1 jets, but im though the mains only mattered in the high rpms, because i dont have any problems at all in the high rpms, the only problem i have is in the under 5 or 6 rpm range...

And the needles are on the 1st, as in the highest setting, which as i understand from my convo with the dyno jet guy thats the leanest notch for the needle.  as you go down the needle it gets richer.

_the jet kit i got comes with... 118's, 122's, 128's, and 134's.... right now i have the 134's in it...

The whole main jet/high RPM this is where Dynojet confuses a lot of people.  The main jet effects the whole range because the slides operate a needle that blocks the flow of fuel from the jet.  As the slides raise, the needle withdraws from the jet orifice allowing more fuel to flow.  The main has the most effect at full throttle (not necessarily at high RPM) because that is when the needle is completely out of the jet, and not limiting the fuel flow.  However, if the main jet is too big the carbs can be rich throughout a lot of the rev range because there is still more fuel flowing even when metered by the needles.  At least this is how I understand it.

Couple questions:  Have you tried the 128s yet?  If so and you still had the problem, try the 122s.  Also, did you drill/tap the slides and put both adapters into the holes?  The kit says you can leave one adapter out for more acceleration, but when I tried the kit I did not know which adapter to leave out (one has a smaller diameter hole and the other is blocked completely) or whether to still drill out both holes in the slides.  I put both in, but could never get the bike to run right.

[Fast Jetta 97]

Very good point,

I currently have both slides only running one corrector... meaning, i drilled out both holes in each slide, but i only put a corrector in one hole on each slide (i believe i put the corrector in the right whole on each slide).  I mentioned this to the dynojet guy on the phone and he sounded like that didn't matter, but i will gladly put in the other corrector if there is a chance that that will fix it... HAHAH. 

yeah, tommorrow i will go try doing the 128's in there and see what happens.... (FINGERS CROSSED)

[kml.krk]

  wow. those DJ kits for older models are crazy complicated... good that they gave up the idea of drilling slides and all that crap in newer models.
But still DJ Kit is a CRAP! I have it and I don't recommend it. I think it's a lot better and cheaper to buy jets from mikuni and use stock needles. That's what most people do and that's SMART - I WASN'T     f..CK  Dynojet 

[DrtRydr23]

wow. those DJ kits for older models are crazy complicated... good that they gave up the idea of drilling slides and all that crap in newer models.
But still DJ Kit is a CRAP! I have it and I don't recommend it. I think it's a lot better and cheaper to buy jets from mikuni and use stock needles. That's what most people do and that's SMART - I WASN'T     f..CK  Dynojet 

I haven't seen a kit for the newer bikes.  I wonder if the needles and such are the same with the whole not drilling the slides thing?  I've noticed kits for other bikes that didn't need drilling.  I replaced my drilled slides and went with DIY jetting, but I've been toying with the idea fo trying the DJ kit again without drilling the slides, just to see what would happen.  When I was having alot of problems with my DJ kit, I guessed that drilling the slides might have been a big factor in the problems.

[coll0412]

If you go to a smaller main jet then you may need to raise the needle a bit too to get it to run right in the 6-8K range

[Fast Jetta 97]

OK here we go... this is todays update after another like 4 hours session working on it....

Also i have never spend this much time on such a simple problem... (and i have had like 6 motorcycles and like 8 cars)

-So i started by moving down to the 128 jets, aftermarket needles...
-Then down to the 122 jets, aftermarket needles...
-then down to the 118 jets, aftermarket needles... (clilp on the top and 2nd from top notch)
-118 jets, with the stock needles....

NOTHING... still does the same problem it idles ok, and runs ok in high rpms, but run shitty between 2,500 and 5,500....

But hey i guess the bright side is i can now take apart anything having to do with the fuel with my eye's closed.... Heck i would deff call myself a pro at anything having to do with assembly or dissasembly of the carbs.... on the bike, off the bike its all the same...

[Fast Jetta 97]

random... heres a befor after of the r1 taillight conversion.... now i just gotta get that pesky plastic trim piece that goes between the tail sections over the tail light....







Then we got a lil diagram type pic of the carbs...



Then a lil comparison of the jets...

[coll0412]

Crazy, I am out of ideas, could be the slides issues being drilled I guess but really I am out of ideas....what happens if you put the stock stuff back in, does it still do it?

If it still does it then something in the carbs is f*ed up.

Have you checked the valve clearances?

[Fast Jetta 97]

yeah, i fogot to say that i put the other corrector in the slide during these changes....

Yeah, i have no idea how to check valve clearances.... but im sure it couldn't hurt....

[kml.krk]

this will help you A LOT with valves: thanks goes to KERRY for that video.
enjoy:   http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363&q=gs500+valve&total=3&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=0

[Affschnozel]

Hmmm, that reminds me......      

How long since your last valve adjustments ?

It's always good idea to bring valves into spec before tweaking the carbs