Clutch Cover Problems - Fixed

[OPTheory]

Hey guys,

Well I finally got around the replacing the clutch cover gasket after i found it had been leaking.  The process simply involved removing the 50 or so bolts on the side casing including this strange bolt in the middle of some device behind the "Suzuki" emblem - I'm not sure what this device is but there was a bolt in the middle that needed to be removed.  So I unscrewed that and the case came off fine.  I removed the old gasket, put some sealant on the new one on both sides, let it sit for a moment, put the case back on and proceeded to screw in the rest of the bolts.  When I got the device in the middle (again, the thing behind the Suzuki emblem), the 'washer', shaped somewhat like a pendulum was sticking out too far - I unscrewed the bolt again, and moved it counter clockwise until the pendulum part was facing at a 45 degree angle and more recessed into the casing.  Put the bolt back on - no problems.

After I put all of the oil back in I started the engine and I heard this strange and loud clicking noise coming from the clutch cover side of the engine casing.  I thought this was the oil level gauge hitting some moving part because I did notice that it was slightly bent.  I killed the engine, bent the oil level gauge's stick straight and I started it up, and the clicking noise was still there but it was less apparent this time.  After letitng it run for a few minutes it seemed to go away entirely but there was another problem...

It was leaking MORE oil!  This time it was dripping down from that cable that comes out from under the suzuki emblem.  So I remember putting it all back together like I found it - but now it's leaking oil yet again!  Any ideas?  Also, every now and then when I try to start it, I'll hear a loud cllick and it will stop trying to start.  So I'll just try once again and it'll start up fine.  Maybe there's a connection of some sort?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

[dgyver]

Possible that you damaged the seal on the ignition rotor.

[OPTheory]

Oh ok...

Here's a picture of the ignition rotor as of this morning:



Anything wrong from what you can see in the picture?  Where should that pendulum on the main big bolt with the letters be pointing?  Should there be a bolt in that bottom bronze colored hole? 

[dgyver]

Where should that pendulum on the main big bolt with the letters be pointing? 

It all depends on where the motor is located in its stroke. As long as the rotor is indexed with the crank shaft with the dowel pin, it is fine.

Should there be a bolt in that bottom bronze colored hole? 

Yes. The green wire is supposed to be connected the oil pressure sensor.

[OPTheory]

It all depends on where the motor is located in its stroke. As long as the rotor is indexed with the crank shaft with the dowel pin, it is fine.

Forgive my ignorance but how might I actually determine that the rotor is indexed with the crank shaft with the dowel pin?

[Kerry]

I'm thinking that if the engine actually runs, it's indexed correctly. 

[OPTheory]

Alright well I took off the emblem, started it up, and I found that it's leaking from the two bottom holes as seen in the picture:



Is it possible that the seal is still damaged if that's the case or did I just miss something when I put the cover back on?

Thanks a lot for the help guys!

[The Buddha]

Oil pressure switch. Its tapered, you over gorilla it and you're fooked. And your ignition advancer is not a washer.
Dude - I am afraid for you. You may want to have someone else fix stuff for you.
Cool.
Srinath.

[OPTheory]

Oil pressure switch. Its tapered, you over gorilla it and you're fooked. And your ignition advancer is not a washer.
Dude - I am afraid for you. You may want to have someone else fix stuff for you.

Yes, thank you for pointing out my lack of knowledge for the terminology of these parts.  That's why this forum is awesome – you learn new things.  I know it's not a washer.

But just to confirm – the fact that it's leaking out of the two bottom holes means I screwed it in too tightly, right?  I guess I was under the assumption that I would need to adjust it myself and put it back in the position it was in before.  Obviously to get to that point required tightening it.  The thing is, I didn't tighten it THAT much... or so it seems.

[Dan02GS]

same thing happened to me, the signal generator seal developed a leak over time, I guess this would be the seal in the rotor.  It was really tight I had to take it to a mechanic he replaced the seal and all is well, I guess the mechanic that had worked on the bike before I got it had overtightened. Good luck

[Kerry]

The only thing I have ever done behind that cover is rotate the crank with a wrench ... while checking valve clearances ... back when I did it according to the book.

But!  Speaking of "the book", I'd be happy to loan you both of my manuals (Clymer and Haynes).  Shall I bring them by tonight ... after work?  (If the answer is "Yes", PM your street address.)

[OPTheory]

same thing happened to me, the signal generator seal developed a leak over time, I guess this would be the seal in the rotor.  It was really tight I had to take it to a mechanic he replaced the seal and all is well, I guess the mechanic that had worked on the bike before I got it had overtightened. Good luck

Do you remember how much he charged you for getting that seal replaced?  My problem is getting it to the mechanic now...  Ah I can't believe I overtightened it...

Kerry - PM sent!  Also, where can I find a good mechanic in the area?

[Dan02GS]

He charged me $185.00, he said it was easy once he got the old seal off he just tapped the new one in. At that point I didnt care how much it was becaus i wanted my motorcycle back. I have vowed to avoid mechanics since then because it took forever to get it. Now that I have had time to think about it I think I should have done it myself or got someone to help me with it. It hasnt leaked at all since then,  I guarentee you once it is sealed it will be fine. Good luck

[Kerry]

Also, where can I find a good mechanic in the area?

I wouldn't know!  I had the guys at Frandsen's (now Escape Motorsports) in Provo replace my fork seals for $110 (!!) back in 2000.  Later that year they got to put my bike back together after I hit the cow, but that was because:  A) It was a bigger job than I wanted to tackle, and B) the insurance money paid for it.

Since then the only things I have taken to a mechanic have been my rims, along with mail-order tires to be mounted.

[OPTheory]

He charged me $185.00, he said it was easy once he got the old seal off he just tapped the new one in. At that point I didnt care how much it was becaus i wanted my motorcycle back. I have vowed to avoid mechanics since then because it took forever to get it. Now that I have had time to think about it I think I should have done it myself or got someone to help me with it. It hasnt leaked at all since then,  I guarentee you once it is sealed it will be fine. Good luck

Wow - well at least he fixed it! 

I can manage doing it, it's just a matter of finding the part to replace it with... From looking at part diagrams I can't just buy a new seal for the rotor - I need to buy a whole new side casing...

But if anyone has any insight as to where I can find a new seal - that'd be fantastic!

Kerry - Too much money!  Too bad this won't fall under insurance Oh well... what can ya do...

[Kerry]

But if anyone has any insight as to where I can find a new seal - that'd be fantastic!

Perhaps you missed the post where I said that I had my neighbor's old, seized '96 engine in my shed ... missing only its plugs and its shims....? 

[OPTheory]

Yes! I forgot about that!  That's the best news I've heard all day. 

So what needs to happen?  If it's not too much of a hassle I can just stop by later tonight and pick up those manuals and take off that seal - I don't want to inconvenience you in any way though so let me know what I can do!  PM me.

[OPTheory]

UPDATE:

Well after spending a couple of good hours over at Kerry's house - we had a look at the seized engine.  We both concluded that the "seal" would be quite hard to remove off of an old engine and that the reason I was most likely experiencing a leak was simply because I was missing those two bolts it was leaking out of - as seen in the photo above.  Kerry also gave me a new emblem cover because mine had a huge chip taken off of it.  Well, I put everything back on tonight, the seal looked just fine, and it leaks no more!

I appreciate everyone's suggestions and Kerry's hospitality!  Thanks Kerry

[Kerry]

  SCORE! 

I'm glad it worked out.    Have a great (and safe) ride tomorrow!

[Dan02GS]

Great, I am glad you got it fixed. So, it was two bolts that were missing from which the oil was leaking? And not the rotor seal? Whew,,, I am glad to hear a success story, but where the heck did those bolts go.