how to: recovering a seat.

[nastynate6695]

Ok... this was asked for and since i did it and took some pics i will try to walk whoever else needs it through the process..

When I started my bike project one thing that I  knew had to be done was the recovering of my seat.  It had become worn through the years and was starting to crack and tear on the sides and close to the top.  One part close to the tank hand actually ripped open a good 2 inches.  This was not good for the sheer fact that everytime it rained the seat would soak up water.  Then whenever I would ride it my bottom would end up being wet.



The first step in redoing your seat is figuring out what fabric you want. I went with a fake vinyl/leather deal.
Most of your fabric shops carry stuff like this and sell it by the yard.  I found a small mom and pop place and paid $5 for three yards of what i needed.

Before you start the manual labor part of the work make sure that you have all the proper tools.
1. Flat Head screwdriver
2. Needle-nose pliers
3.  A couple of razor blades
4. Staple gun
5. Small hammer

To begin take your seat off of the gs and place it upside down so you can get a good view of the staples holding the fabric in place.

Start in the middle and using the screwdriver and needle-nose pry out all of the old staples.




Once you have taken all the staples out flip the seat back over peal the fabric off.

Take your new fabric that you are using to replace the old with and lay it out.

Place your old seat cover on top of your new fabric.  You should notice that the cover has maintained its shape and no matter how hard you try to flatten it out completely.... short of using an iron... it just wont happen. 



Measure the length and width and add a few inch's for mistakes later on down the line.

Once you mark off how much you need make your cut in  the general shape of the seat.  But as I mentioned earlier leave excess fabric on the sides for errors.

Once you have your piece cut,  align it on the seat and turn it over so the plastic side is now face up. 

I found it easier to start in the middle and work my way around.  To do this pull the material up on both sides and pull as tightly as you can to bring them together.  Once it is tight enough  grab the stapler with your free hand and in one motion (this is important) press in towards the plastic and then down towards the middle.  This helps to stretch the fabric even more and hold it securely in place when you staple it.

Add about three or four staples then go to the other side and do the same.

Now flip the seat over and eyeball it to make sure everything looks tight in the area that you just did. Flip the seat back over and continue in the pattern.  About every six inches cut off the excess fabric.

While you are move around the seat stapling the sides make sure you stretch it lengthwise also.  This will help to keep the wrinkles out of it.
I found it easiest to work from the middle towards the rear.

As you get close to the corners double check before you staple that the fabric hasnt creased or folded on top of the seat.




The hardest part is towards the front.  This is do to the rise and everything coming to a point.  Do your best to keep it as tight as possible and work the fabric more often.  Also you will have to increase the amount of staples you use in this area.

Once you are finished with the seat put it on the bike to see how it looks.  If you are not happy you can always back track by removing the staples in the creased or loose are and rework that specific area.



I had a few creases in the front of the seat where it starts to make its curve upward.  But once I put it on the bike  I got over it.



Extra tips.
  Use an electric stapler.  I already had one i used to install insulation its a stanley that cost $40 from lowes.
  Use the hammer to secure any staples that didnt go in all the way.
  If possible double layer the fabric before stapling. This way the staple goes through both layers and doubles your holding strength.

[Kerry]

Thanks for the write-up. 

You make it sound like a mere human could actually DO this! 

[Ski1215]

Good informative write up. Where did you find the material and what is it?

[scottpA_GS]

You can get it a little less wrinkly by using a special vinyl that you heat a bit to stretch. You can buy vinyl by the yard at Walmart 

[nastynate6695]

Good informative write up. Where did you find the material and what is it?

fake vinyl/leather is what i used...it withstands sun and water  which is what i need for florida.
I got it from a local fabric store  im sure you have some in your area

[modlife]

Regardless of the vinyl - if you heat it up with a blow dryer it'll stretch enough to take out creases. Also, you want to make sure you are cutting "v" notches where it curves down and slits where it curves up. A little dab of super glue and an extra staple above the end of the slits will keep it from splitting later on.

-J

[Jared]

Regardless of the vinyl - if you heat it up with a blow dryer it'll stretch enough to take out creases. Also, you want to make sure you are cutting "v" notches where it curves down and slits where it curves up. A little dab of super glue and an extra staple above the end of the slits will keep it from splitting later on.

-J

Yes heat is your friend with vinyl ( steam is better...but a hair dryer is good).

Actually not all vinyls are the same... often they will stretch well in one direction but barely at all in the other ( length/ width wise ). Heat helps - a hair dryer is definitely enough to get the vinyl pliable -but it may not stretch so easy in one of the directions even after the heat (more but not as much as you may like..). You may also want to look for a marine grade vinyl ( difference in the backing..Mold/ mildew resistant..).

You really don't have to make relief cuts but they help...and as for super glue- not necessary...you'll be stapled inside the cuts and often enough that they wont open up anymore.

You can get a Vinyl now called AllSport that stretches well in all directions (much like the factory cover does). It costs 15-20$ a yard ( 36 inches by 54 inch width). Comes in  half dozen or so colors and in Black it comes in a more grip texture as well as the regular texture. It was brought on the market  for replacing Watercraft covers/ etc.

The Gs seat is easy to do ...Try a ZX11D  Seat with some regular material if you want a challenge.


That's not too bad a try at doing a seat... If you want the winkles out... pull the staples out from where the wrinkles are and forward...pull the front a little tighter than where you have it now and re-staple it. The material will "tent" front to back.. -working forward on each side hold you palm on the material and push out and around on the material/seat towards the sides...Keep working the material around and staple...Alternate side to side a little and keep stapling....You may even have to pull the front loose again to get it all smooth again.

I do this kind of thing "for a living".

[dgyver]

When I did the partial re-cover on my 97 seat, I used marine grade vinyl. I found it at a local fabric store. They had black, blue, red, yellow, white and maybe a few more color but the selection is a little more limited. Agood bit thicker and fairly reasonably priced.

[GeeP]

Looks good! 

As Jared said, heat is your friend. 

Also, the easiest way to get a pattern for your new cover is to remove the old one and trace around it!   

[The Buddha]

Hey jared ... how much to do a virago 1100 seat Yea, $50 to mail it back and forth ...
Anyway, a GS seat is a flat sheet cover, but most other bikes are not. My seca is another flat sheet bike. Sorta like the "Flat earth society" huh.
Cool.
Srinath.

[beRto]

Great post... thanks!

[The Buddha]

Find the hottest day you have in your town, park a car in the middle of a open field and leave the seat cover in there whole day. ~7pm it should be hot enough to fry an egg ... and ideal time you take your vinyl and drop the seat in the middle, Then step on the seat and pull the bugger over and staple in 4-5 places. Then slowly word around it.
Cool.
Srinath.