Problem with adjusting carbs

[Batalia]

Just finished rejetting the carbs with 150,40 and one washer and now the carbs are running to rich.  It bogs down during hard acceleration and when come to an idle it feels like it wants to shut off.  Can anyone help me with this before I put everything back the way it was?

[The Buddha]

Set your floats - no more than the top of float bowl.
You have pipe and K&N lunchbox right ?
Cool.
Srinath.

[Batalia]

How do I adjust the float bowls?  I did remove them to change the jets but nothing else.  Did I do something wrong?

[The Buddha]

Bend the stainless tang in the rear part of the carb, you can do when still on the bike, but first time, you almost have to remove the carbs.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Batalia]

Do I bend them inwards towards the needle or outwards away from the needle?

[Batalia]

Thanks for the help.  I took apart teh carbs again today and I redid the floats and it doesnt bog down any more.  The only problem I get is that it sputers under full power at certain RPMS and I know that has something to do with the airscrews.  I'm still playing with those to get them right.

[The Buddha]

Full throttle and sputtering ... not air screws.
If it sputters when you whack the throttle open, but does not when you open slower, its the slides comming up too fast.
Anyway, you have Lunch box and pipe right, else 150 is wrong.
The floats, every one gets tripped up by that, the bike wears with floats going high. That is one reason the bike starts to run better as it gets older, from new. Its got its pitfalls ... usually with time it will get so high it will get messed up.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Batalia]

So I should get a smaller main jet?  Which one should I get?  Everyone recommends 150 so I went with that but what is the min jet I can use to have the k&n lunch box?

[kml.krk]

So I should get a smaller main jet?  Which one should I get?  Everyone recommends 150 so I went with that but what is the min jet I can use to have the k&n lunch box?

you still didn't say if you have aftermarket pipe or not. if you have then 150 mains probably are good (or close), but if you're running stock pipe and K&N lunchbox it'll be hard to set up but not impossible (a lot of air coming in, not much going out), (150 mains are too large in case of stock pipe)

so do you have aftermarket (high flowing) pipe??

cheers
KaMeL

PS: someone correct me if I'm wrong 

[Batalia]

I have the vance hines slip on pipe with the stock headers.  I am running 93 octane gas if that is a problem.

[The Buddha]

Airbox and K&N in it = 127.5.
Airbox and UNI/stock = 125.
No airbox and K&N clamp on = 150.
Some people have put in 147.5 also with the K&N lunch box.
Cool.
Srinath.

[kml.krk]

I have the vance hines slip on pipe with the stock headers.  I am running 93 octane gas if that is a problem.

93 octanes shouldn't be a problem although most guys here recommend 89. I run 93 also  I don't even know why. I believe it doesn't hurt, but here again some may argue 
cheers
KaMeL

[Batalia]

So if I'm using the 150 jet with the lunch box I shouldn't have sputtering.  Should i continue to play with the air screws and see what I get?

[The Buddha]

Air screws dont do much at higher rpm. K kunch box and pipe = 150's.
Your problem needs this extra experiment.
Open throttle fast and it sputters, open slowly and it pulls clean - then you have a slide that is rising too fast. Most stock slides to rise faster than ideal, but usually people just never notice or get practised at it or whatever.
Cool.
Srinath.

[GSnoober]

Just finished rejetting the carbs with 150,40 and one washer and now the carbs are running to rich.  It bogs down during hard acceleration and when come to an idle it feels like it wants to shut off.  Can anyone help me with this before I put everything back the way it was?

You might want to remove the washer under each needle, to see if that helps eliminate the problem. Installing the washer raises the needle, and that might be causing the bogging you're experiencing at idle. Remove the washer from each carb, reassemble everything properly, then see where you are. You might still need to make minor adjustments (to the air bleed screws, for example), but without the washers, you just might be able to eliminate the problems when idling. Once you have that problem dealt with, it should be easier to correct any other aberrations. In fact, removing the washers might solve ALL of the problems you're having, keeping in mind that you still might need to do some fine-tuning (air bleed screws or whatever).

Let us know what happens...