Removing exhaust = playing with fire? **updated with results**

[beRto]

I have a '95 with a stock exhaust. The bike has only 3000 miles and everything is stock, so it is possible the exhaust has never been removed before.

I am planning on removing the exhaust in order to gain access for lubrication of the swingarm and rear suspension bearings.

I've read many posts of snapped exhaust bolts; I'm worried that the age of this bike might make it a high risk for this problem. I've been using "Liquid Wrench" for a few days now. Is there anything else I can do to minimize risk of problems? Is this a bad idea (i.e. is it likely that I will have problems with snapped exhaust bolts)?

Thanks for any comments! 

[sledge]

Do you really need to take the exhaust off? I can assure you from personal experience the swingarm, shock and the linkage can be removed with it in place.

[philward]

Loosening and re-torquing the header bolts is part of the maintenance schedule - so you should do it anyway.  Doing so periodically will actually reduce the risk because it will avoid the problem you are facing of bolts that may have sat in place for 13 years.

I know this doesn't avoid your current situation, but the point I'm making is: you should step up and do it, because it needs to be done.  And what happens happens, and will simply need to be dealt with pragmatically. 

Don't forget to get a stick of anti-sieze to give you peace of mind in the future... 

[sledge]

Loosening and re-torquing the header bolts is part of the maintenance schedule - so you should do it anyway. 

A crazy suggestion...........Where is the sense in attempting to remove them for no good reason knowing full well you could shear them and then have to face the difficulties and expense that would result....and all for no good reason whatsoever. I think what the schedule says is make sure they are tight (despite the fact it would be obvious if they were not) I cant see anything that says loosen them first then retighten, at least not in the Factory service manual.

[philward]

A crazy suggestion...........Where is the sense in attempting to remove them for no good reason...

The 'no good reason' is to avoid snapping siezed bolts by not letting them sit there for eternity, rusting away.  I know mine come out a dream now. 

Each to their own, I guess.

[ohgood]

Loosening and re-torquing the header bolts is part of the maintenance schedule - so you should do it anyway.  Doing so periodically will actually reduce the risk because it will avoid the problem you are facing of bolts that may have sat in place for 13 years.

I know this doesn't avoid your current situation, but the point I'm making is: you should step up and do it, because it needs to be done.  And what happens happens, and will simply need to be dealt with pragmatically. 

Don't forget to get a stick of anti-sieze to give you peace of mind in the future... 

+1

I'd let it soak in your-favorite-penetrant-of-choice every night between rides (so it heat cycles too) for a week. then i'd carefully remove the bolts. i mean, it's going to snap now or later if those original bolts are going to at all. i'd rather now, fix it, and apply anti seize and not have to worry about it myself.

new bolts + antiseize = piece of mind.

[Jay_wolf]

But Phil,  Yours is a 2005 model  , He has a 1995 model , with such low milage it must have sat for a portion of its life....

As for removing the bolts , i hada clean 1996 and Suffered not a single siezed bolt anywhere when i stripped it , i just coated with Wd40 and used the perfect sized Hex bolt

[beRto]

 

You guys just played out the debate exactly as it's been going on in my head!

Do you really need to take the exhaust off? I can assure you from personal experience the swingarm, shock and the linkage can be removed with it in place.

I don't really need to take the exhaust off...

... avoid snapping siezed bolts by not letting them sit there for eternity, rusting away.  I know mine come out a dream now. 

but I wouldn't mind doing it to make sure the header bolts are not rusting away.

I'd let it soak in your-favorite-penetrant-of-choice every night between rides (so it heat cycles too) for a week. then i'd carefully remove the bolts.

I'll apply antiseize all week and remove them gently. I'll replace the bolts with new ones, and get some antiseize on there. Then I'll torque them up properly and be happy knowing they're in good shape...

... a 1995 model , with such low milage it must have sat for a portion of its life....

But wait! It's a '95 with low mileage. It sat for a portion of its life and the bolts may not want to come out easily...

Where is the sense in attempting to remove them for no good reason knowing full well you could shear them and then have to face the difficulties and expense that would result....and all for no good reason whatsoever.

There's probably a good chance the bolts will shear off and I'll suffer the annoyance and expense of dealing with it. And I'd feed pretty crappy because I didn't really have to take off that exhaust (plus the good weather is starting and I'd lose some valuable riding time).

I know! I'll ask gsTwins; they'll be able to help...

[houston_gs500]

I have a '96 with ~11,000 miles that had the typical rusty-looking just plain ugly exhaust (stock) when I bought it about a year ago.  I was waiting on some carb parts from Canada so I went ahead and pulled them off to sand and repaint.  They came off with a little work and in doing so I noticed prior owners had used several different bolts to put them back on, they were rusty, ugly, didn't fit right, etc.  So I took the best one out of the group and went to Home Deport (insert your local mega home buidling supply store here).  I found four metric, brand new bolts that fit perfect and even look better.  Sanded down and repainted exhaust (using all the tips I could find here) and exhaust went back on without a problem - best part is I know they will come off and on again with no surprises in the future.

Just go slow, don't over tighten, and go ahead and replace the bolts, you will be happy you did.

Pete

[pbureau69]

But Phil,  Yours is a 2005 model  , He has a 1995 model , with such low milage it must have sat for a portion of its life....

humm 3000 for 12 years  = 300/12 =(250miles/year) / 12 months = 20.833 Miles a months.
Guess the drive to town is 2 miles eh!

(I drove 24,757 miles last year ..lol (2063 Miles/month....) nice bike...!
I hope it hasnt sat in a garage for 10 years without maintenance (ie carbs gunked up comes to mind)

if you are going to need to do it, then do it, let bolts sleep overnight in a bucket of penetrating oil,
use anti-seize on theread and torque back into place should be fine for a couple of years.

now the question is... will you break any, and how will you solve the issue...

have fun!

[sledge]

Let me put it another way and ask a hypothetical question.....

Your header joints are NOT blowing and you have NO reason to remove the pipe, you try the bolts for tightness and find they are siezed solid and wont move. Do you...

A) Take a chance, use force and penetrating oil and attempt to loosen and retighten them knowing they could shear or round off and present you with a nightmare of a problem which in a worse case scenario could mean scrapping the whole cylinder block.

B) Leave them well alone and worry about it if/when the joints start blowing or if/when the pipe HAS to come off for whatever reason.

I know which option I would be taking  




 

[beRto]

Let me put it another way and ask a hypothetical question.....

Your header joints are NOT blowing and you have NO reason to remove the pipe, you try the bolts for tightness and find they are siezed solid and wont move.

Maybe this is a good starting point? I have not yet tried to move the exhaust bolts. I suppose I could try to loosen them and better gauge the situation. If they are seized, leave well enough alone.

• What do you think?
• Are they likely to break if I don't force them?
• I don't think the torque value is very high (edit: 9 - 12 Nm per Suzuki manual), so if they're not stuck they should come out pretty easily?

p.s. Thanks again to everyone for the useful discussion! 

[Jay_wolf]

BeRto , i was infact making the point that if it had sat around for a while , said bolts woill be hard to move , when i took apart a 1990 kat almost every damn bolt was seized , the 1996 i got with 13,000 on it , came out fine

[ben2go]

If you can get a puch in the center of the bolt,hit it with a hammer.It helps to break the bond the threads have created with the head.Use the other techniques along with this.I know it works on other bikes.I haven't attempted to remove the exhaust yet.It's coming soon.

[beRto]

Well, I was too curious so I decided to go ahead and try removing the bolts...

they all came out easily!   

I'd been using Liquid Wrench all week before and after rides. I removed the bolts after today's ride while the engine was still warm.

The two inner bolts had a little bit of rust forming on the threads. I got out my tap and die set and cleaned them up (I think the threads were M8 x 1.25, but don't quote me on it). Applied some anti-seize and put the bolts back in.

I'm so glad it turned out well.  I know it could have quite easily been a disaster. Thanks again for the discussion and helpful advice!!