How long should the engine stay hot?

[Jerka]

I went for about a 40 minute ride the other day and it was about 50 degrees outside.  I was checking the oil about 1.5 hours after I parked it and the engine block was still pretty darn hot.  The exhaust was cold and the engine fins around the cylinders were warm, but the block was hot to the touch...not burn yourself hot, but I wouldn't want to keep my hand on it.  Is this normal. 

By the way, the oil was just changed and the level is perfect.

Thanks.

[GSnoober]

You've just pointed out ANOTHER reason why rejetting the GS is a NECESSITY; proper jetting will make the engine run RICHER than it does with the stock jets, and richer carburetion means the engine will run noticeably COOLER as well. I've rejetted every single motorcycle I've bought since 1982, if it hadn't already been rejetted by a previous owner, or if it was straight off the showroom floor (my 1986 Honda CB700SC Nighthawk and my 1989 Yamaha FZR600, for example). STOCK JETTING SUCKS; the hotter engine overheats the oil, and the excessive heat stresses the entire engine. Back in the day, we installed aftermarket oil coolers to help resolve the problem; most air-cooled engines can make good use of an oil-cooler, and the GS is no exception.

If you are worried that you can't do a proper rejetting on your own, contact The Buddha; he can do the work for you for a very reasonable price. Most new riders have no experience with carburetion, and they're spoiled by the liquid-cooling in the cars they drive. They also tend to think that if a motorcycle is sold with certain components, then those components are the BEST available, but that logic is so completely flawed, I don't even know where to begin assaulting it.

If you've already rejetted, you've proabably done something heinously wrong; if you haven't rejetted yet, do it, and turn your GS into a cooler-running, more responsive machine.

[ejudasf]

A quetion about this.


I have a  little infrared temp-guage, and I used to use it for my gas powered model engines.

What should the temp be, normally?  just at idle, no stress on engine, for how long when engine should be running for 'correct' temp?

Better yet, if my trip is 40 miles, at the end of that trip, what is the best 'guestamate' temp the engine shoule be?

I will check it when I get to work, and then when I get home.

BUT I WONT POST UNLESS I GET A FEW GUESSES?  You all know what I mean.

I know, air cooled and stuff, but what should one do when there is a traffic jam, or a long wait while the train passes.  You know what I mean?

I liked the comments about my wife's butt.  You know the pics I posted.

latters people.

ejf

[GSnoober]

I went for about a 40 minute ride the other day and it was about 50 degrees outside.  I was checking the oil about 1.5 hours after I parked it and the engine block was still pretty darn hot.  The exhaust was cold and the engine fins around the cylinders were warm, but the block was hot to the touch...not burn yourself hot, but I wouldn't want to keep my hand on it.  Is this normal. 

By the way, the oil was just changed and the level is perfect.

Thanks.

The Buddha is offering his services for carb work once again in this thread:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=40688

Check it out; over the years, many members have paid Srinath to lead them to the promised land of properly jetted carbs...

[ohgood]

A quetion about this.


I have a  little infrared temp-guage, and I used to use it for my gas powered model engines.

What should the temp be, normally?  just at idle, no stress on engine, for how long when engine should be running for 'correct' temp?

Better yet, if my trip is 40 miles, at the end of that trip, what is the best 'guestamate' temp the engine shoule be?

I will check it when I get to work, and then when I get home.

BUT I WONT POST UNLESS I GET A FEW GUESSES?  You all know what I mean.

I know, air cooled and stuff, but what should one do when there is a traffic jam, or a long wait while the train passes.  You know what I mean?

I liked the comments about my wife's butt.  You know the pics I posted.

latters people.

ejf

I can't say because I've never done what you are going to. I am interested in the results. I've noticed more than once that one of the jugs is seems warmer than the other (and it's inconsistent which one is warmer)

it seems like my mixture is good from idle to wot for now. always wondered if the oil and cooling was exactly the same and temperatures should stay the same. if it even matters

[dgyver]

Here are some other recorded engine temperatures:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=27008.0

[toyopete]

I  might think suzuki found the materials to build our little 500 that can sustain these hight temperatures without overheating?
I have an infrared  temp. I'll do the check in Celsius under the next surcumstances;
( Slavador Brasil ) driving 25 kilometer with an outside temperature of 29 degrees C than diving into the trafficjams in the city, this means driving between lanes braking shifting between first and second gear. playing with the clutch untill my hand hurts, waiting for red lights etc.
so if that doesn't heat up the engine.
I already noticed that the rpm's not noticably higher, I do this trip almost every day...

[Jerka]

You've just pointed out ANOTHER reason why rejetting the GS is a NECESSITY; proper jetting will make the engine run RICHER than it does with the stock jets, and richer carburetion means the engine will run noticeably COOLER as well. I've rejetted every single motorcycle I've bought since 1982, if it hadn't already been rejetted by a previous owner, or if it was straight off the showroom floor (my 1986 Honda CB700SC Nighthawk and my 1989 Yamaha FZR600, for example). STOCK JETTING SUCKS; the hotter engine overheats the oil, and the excessive heat stresses the entire engine. Back in the day, we installed aftermarket oil coolers to help resolve the problem; most air-cooled engines can make good use of an oil-cooler, and the GS is no exception.

If you are worried that you can't do a proper rejetting on your own, contact The Buddha; he can do the work for you for a very reasonable price. Most new riders have no experience with carburetion, and they're spoiled by the liquid-cooling in the cars they drive. They also tend to think that if a motorcycle is sold with certain components, then those components are the BEST available, but that logic is so completely flawed, I don't even know where to begin assaulting it.

If you've already rejetted, you've proabably done something heinously wrong; if you haven't rejetted yet, do it, and turn your GS into a cooler-running, more responsive machine.

Okay, well I pulled my carbs when I got the bike about 3 weeks ago and took them to certified mechanic who knows his stuff...he might not be very familiar with the GS, but he knows his stuff.  He cleaned the carbs and found/fixed a slow circuit clog and I discovered that the last guy who pulled the carbs hooked a few of the hoses up incorrectly.

So I got all of that straightened out and changed the oil which had some gas in it from the incorrect hose plumbing.  I took it back to the mechanic to tune it and he put a washer on each of the needles and adjusted the mixture screws so that the bike was running where it needed to be. 

My question is...If I leave it alone for the season and rejet/readjust the mixture screws this winter, should I be okay.  The bike is running great right now and I hate to pull the carbs again.

[cd]

bikes run hot people, hahhahaha

[toyopete]

Okay her some temperatures meeasured direct after this urban/citty trip. outside temp was 29 c in Brasil Salvador.
I copied this from this site and put my measurements  beside the others.  (...) I did not do all of them but did measured the oil filter cover.
I'll do it again some day.

Top front engine fin: 85 'C 
Sparkplug fin: 88 'C    ( 87 c )
Valve cover: 69 'C      ( camshaft cover;  110 c )
Exhaust pipe, near head: 75 'C   ( 147 c )
Exhaust pipe mounting flange: 82 'C
Dipstick: 72 'C
Intake manifold: 85 'C
Rubber carb boot: 66 'C
Carb body: 46 'C
Floatbowl: 49 'C
Starter motor cover: 73 'C
Camchain tensioner: 75 'C
Crankcase @ base of cylinder: 71 'C
Oil filter cover 66 'C   ( exactly 100 c )