More LED (and other) troubles!!

[rylon]

So I've looked and searched and read all of the FAQ's and how-to's and still can't seem to get my LED turn signals to work.

I have a set of Shock Racing LED turn signals for the front and an integrated R6 LED tail light in the back.

I have the diodes on the turn signals indicator in the dash so it blinks both ways and doesn't cause both signals to blink at the same time, I have also installed both the relay suggested by buddah and a variable load 2 lead relay from Shucks. 

I had everything working well until I took a little hiatus for the holidays and winter snowboarding.  Now that I'm back to workin' on the ol' GS  I can't seem to get the signals working again.

I have tried adding a large ceramic resistor inline with the signals, which doesn't help.  The only way I have managed to get anything blinking, only very dim, was to unplug one of the turn signals?

In addition to not having any signals with all four plugged in all the the LED's are very dim all the time, both signals (when I can get them to light up) the break light, and the signals integrated into the break light!

Any help would be much appreciated as this is one of the las things I have to do before getting my bike running again.

Thanks Rylon

[Fry]

Load equalizer?
I dont have a clue, my brother is the wiring guru that I turn to.

Im about to install a custom set of LEDs and will let you know what happens/

[rylon]

Thanks Fry,  I looked into load equalizers and found a wiring digram with a resistor in a different configuration than what I had tried.  I was wiring mine in series, they are going in parallel.  I'll give it a try soon and let you guys know.

In the mean time if anyone else has any thing to chime in with please feel free, anything will help and I would rather no add resistors if need be, kinda defeats the point of using LED's.

Thanks Rylon

[Toledo Jim]

Try taking the dash indicator bulb out and see if it makes any difference.

(My led's reflect off my windshield, plus I have a Kissan SignalMinder model # SM3S, http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=SM that cancel them for me, so I just didn't replace the dash bulb and didn't have to worry about figuring out those resisters and diodes and stuff.)

ymmv

Jim

[rylon]

Thanks Toledo Jim, I'll give that a try.  That signal minder looks nice but for $100 plus dollars I can turn off my lights by myself!!

I tried to wire a large creamic resistor in parallel to both the signal and the relay and nothing happened or changed, my next step is to try Toledo Jim's suggestion of taking out the signal indicator lamp and then to try and get the bike running and see if anything changes with the charging system running.

My thought is that the LED's aren't creating enough load to make the relay blink because they aren't bright enough (pulling enough current) because the battery isn't at a full charge.  Multimeter says battery is at 10.97 volts but it's not currently running so I have no idea what kind of amperage it is putting out.  Might be a shot in the dark but that is all I have to go on right now!!

Thanks for all the help and keep it coming!!!

Rylon

[Toledo Jim]

That unit also gives you running lights front and rear, 4 way flashers, and alternating flashers, in addition to turning the turn signals off automatically. They also have a number of other modules that are "plug and play" that can add some more interesting effects to your lighting system.

I like it a lot.

(In addition to making it "easy" to convert to led's.)

[rylon]

Well I got it running again, with a jump start!!!  The battery is most definitely dead!!  So it's sitting on a charger as we speak so we'll see if that fixes my signal issue?

On another note I had to kill the bike on several occasions while getting it running and riding around the parking lot of my appt.  The revs would just scream wayyyyyy to high and I couldn't do anything about it.  I tried adjusting the choke, twisting the throttle thinking it was stuck and twisting the handle bars thinking something was binding but nothing helped.  I am assuming it is an issue with the carbs, it is definitely running rich, I can smell it, and it backfired so loud my finace thought it was a gun shot ( prolly scared the hell out of the whole complex!!)  So I'm off to do some research on my rev problem but most likely I'll have a go at the carbs later in the week!!  Wish me luck!

Thanks Rylon

[rylon]

So after doing my research, I think I may very well have some issues with my carbs.  So the next plan of attack is to take the carbs off and give them a good cleaning, making sure that I have all of the o-rings I need.  Then balancing and checking the float height and inspecting and testing carb boots via the WD-40 method.  Sound good to everyone?  Anything I missed?  Feel free to speak up, the more input the better.

Rylon

[beRto]

Depending on mileage, you might also want to confirm that the valve clearances are in spec (every 4000 miles, or 6000 km). If the clearances are out of spec, it can have odd consequences for idle and running.

[rylon]

Good point beRto, I'll have to look into that.  Don't know if I have all the necessary tools to do the check?

Rylon

[beRto]

Good point beRto, I'll have to look into that.  Don't know if I have all the necessary tools to do the check?

Rylon

These are the tools that go around in the kit:


All the tools are very standard, except for the valve compressor tool (the little u-shaped wrench in the top left corner). The Suzuki tool is very expensive, but you can buy a Motion Pro imitation for about $25 (http://www.motorcycletoolchest.com/Motion_Pro_08_0017_Valve_Shim_Adjusting_Tool_p/08-0017.htm)

The only hassle is getting the replacement shims. Depending on your dealer's inventory, it sometimes takes a couple of days to order them in. You may need to open the bike and measure the valve clearances/existing shim sizes. Then close up the bike and order new shims. Then open the bike again when the shims arrive.

If you're not in a rush, you could probably get in the queue for the site kit.

[rylon]

Looks like I have everything but the tool, I'll have a look at the local places and see if they have anything.  I bought a bunch of parts off a racer, so I should have a couple of shims lying around in the garage some where.  I'm gonna go ahead and open the carbs so I may have time to wait on a wrench.  Thanks for the info.

Rylon

[rylon]

So the battery fixed the blinker/signal issues, everything is working fine!! 

For future use I have a LED break light with integrated signals, and led front signals all hard wired to the stock signal wires and the stock break light wires ( just cut, soldered and heat shrink tubing)  A variable load two lead flasher ( don't know the part number but I'll try and get it ) and the diode wired into the signal indicator light as per the LED FAQ.  I will do my best to update this with any further changes I make that don't kill the whole system that way others will have an example of a working system.

I have the carbs apart but need to get some more carb cleaner and a new screw/bolt for the diaphragm covers before putting them back together.  I am going to try and take some pics and create a how to if anyone would like to help me by making edits and ensuring that I am not putting bad data out to the public that would help out a lot!

I also need to get some different feeler gauges and the compression tool, hopefully today, before I can check my valves.  I did notice some wear on the left side exhaust valve cam lobe that worries me.  I'm going to look into it more carefully and try and take some pics, so expect some updates tomorrow or the next day!

Thanks for all the help!

Rylon

[yamahonkawazuki]

ive actually used a modified screwdriver to do valve checks/adjustments, granted not the most precise tool to use, but tat the time, it was all i had but teh MP tool is nice as well. ive used them in the past