Fork seal replacement shopping list question

[pennstump]

I've been researching the fork seal job and there seems to be some confusion as to exactly what one should order to replace both the oil seals and dust seals.  Here are what I can assertain, can someone please validate the need for the non-seal parts, marked with differing opinions:

• Oil Seal       51153-08C20
• Dust Seal       51173-08C20
• Fork Cylinder Gasket       51148-41310  [differing opinions]
• Fork Bolt O-ring       51117-40300  [differing opinions]
• Ring Oil Seal Stopper       51156-40301  [differing opinions]
• Fork Oil, either 10w, 15w, or 20w depending on desired stiffness

I know it never hurts to replace these o-rings, etc., but if I don't need to spend the money, I'd rather not.

Thanks.

[wildbill]

As fas as the o rings and such i guess it depends on the forks and how old the bike is. I replaced the fork seals on my 95 GS500 b/c i hit a shallow pot hole doin around 50mph. It wasn't crazy but enough force to break one of my fork seals. I just bought new fork seals and oil, switched to race tech springs while i was at it. Provided you have all you need the job prob can be done in 2 hours or less, depending on how confident and you are. Its not hard though.. worst part is making that looong threaded bolt to unscrew the allen key bolt and get the fork tubes apart.

I'd say just get new oil and seals, maybe dust caps too, they seem to dry out and crack. If a fork cylinder gasket or o ring look worn, wait to get the part and replace it.

[beRto]

I've been researching the fork seal job and there seems to be some confusion as to exactly what one should order to replace both the oil seals and dust seals.  Here are what I can assertain, can someone please validate the need for the non-seal parts, marked with differing opinions:

• Oil Seal       51153-08C20
• Dust Seal       51173-08C20
• Fork Cylinder Gasket       51148-41310  [differing opinions]
• Fork Bolt O-ring       51117-40300  [differing opinions]
• Ring Oil Seal Stopper       51156-40301  [differing opinions]
• Fork Oil, either 10w, 15w, or 20w depending on desired stiffness

I know it never hurts to replace these o-rings, etc., but if I don't need to spend the money, I'd rather not.

Thanks.

Excellent research!

I know you've already looked up all of the part numbers, but I've copied them below for completeness. Here is what I recently ordered for my 1995 GS500E (prices are in Canada):

2 - 51173-08C20 - Dust Seals @$11.30 ea.
2 - 51153-08C20 - Oil Seals   @$10.78 ea.
2 - 51156-40301 - Seal Stoppers@$5.22 ea.
2 - 51117-40300 - O rings   @$3.01 ea.
1 - 55901 - 10wt fork oil

The seal stoppers are metal rings that need to be pried out. They can bend or get nicked in the process. A bent ring will not fit properly and a nicked ring will rust and muck up your brand new seals.

The only items I purchased that might be considered optional were the O-rings (these are the ones that go under the screw caps at the top of the forks). For the extra $6, I chose peace of mind.

The fork cylinder gaskets fit onto the screws that secure the damper rods; I reused mine only because I didn't think to order new ones. They probably cost about $1 each and if I did it again, I'd replace them too!

[pennstump]

Great, thanks.  I'll buy my original list above.  Should I order this oil while I'm at it or can I pick this kind of oil (and anything I'll need to install it) at a local auto parts store / motorcycle shop?

[beRto]

Great, thanks.  I'll buy my original list above.  Should I order this oil while I'm at it or can I pick this kind of oil (and anything I'll need to install it) at a local auto parts store / motorcycle shop?

You should be able to buy fork oil at any motorycle dealer/shop, but they may not stock the oil weight you want. If your dealer price is reasonable, you might as well go ahead and order oil too.

[The Buddha]

After you do it if they still leak - contact me. I have some experimental sheiete I can do.
Cool.
Buddha.

[ben2go]

I replaced the oil seal and dust seal.The fork cap o-ring doesn't leak unless you ride upside down. 

[SNsSuzuki]

Bump

I just wanted to clarify a few things. Before I placed the order for all the parts, I wanted to confirm the part #'s with the person on the phone. Basically, the part numbers match up until the tail end that followed the hyphen. IE #####-#####. The numbers preceding the hyphen matched, but the ones proceeding were different. These were for my 2004 gs500F. I'm assuming the last few numbers are just to indicate the different year and model even though the parts are completely identical to former models, correct?

-Steven

[beRto]

Bump

I just wanted to clarify a few things. Before I placed the order for all the parts, I wanted to confirm the part #'s with the person on the phone. Basically, the part numbers match up until the tail end that followed the hyphen. IE #####-#####. The numbers preceding the hyphen matched, but the ones proceeding were different. These were for my 2004 gs500F. I'm assuming the last few numbers are just to indicate the different year and model even though the parts are completely identical to former models, correct?

-Steven

Your bike is a 2004+ newer model, so it is likely that the part numbers have changed - as you are doing, it is a good idea to check! The best thing to do in this situation is to refer to a reliable online parts fiche. For example: http://www.cernics.com/fiche_select.asp

Based on the fiche, it appears that the part numbers for the 2004-2006 GS500F have changed (see below). Hope this helps!

ITEM	'95 GS500E		'04 GS500F
Dust Seals	51173-08C20		51173-01DD0
Oil Seals	51153-08C20		51153-01DD0
Seal Stoppers	51156-40301		51156-01DD0
O rings	51117-40300		51117-01DD0