Best way to remove gas tank dent - DIY style

[TimTalkShow]

Hey guys,

So I've been lurking around here for quite a while since I got my 2001 GS500 back in May or so, and this has definitely been a great resource. 

PICS: 





I was looking to get rid of a dent in my gas tank, and was wondering how to go about doing it myself.  I've seen youtube videos of people inserting a tool in the tank and pushing the dent out from the inside, so that looks like a pretty good method from my newb point of view.  Also did a bit of researching of people saying to weld iron sticks to it, and yank it out from the inside, or heating it then freezing it w/ CO2 and letting it magically "pop" out, etc etc.  What's the best way?

Also, secondly, I need to have one edge of the dent repainted and coated, as it's bare metal and starting to rust.  I found this handy thread: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=20350.0 and intend on following it in order to fix the exposed portion after I fix the dent.

on a side note, I've noticed considerable rusting on the inside of my tank, and even tho I"ve read up on how to do it yourself (nuts and bolts, mythatic acid, coke, electricity + salt solution) how important is it that I remove it?  As long as the rust isn't coming loose, can I just leave it in there?

So yeah, if I could get some advice on where to get a metal rod to push out the dent, or the easiest DIY method for removing dents, that'd be awesome.  Thanks in advnace!

[fred]

on a side note, I've noticed considerable rusting on the inside of my tank, and even tho I"ve read up on how to do it yourself (nuts and bolts, mythatic acid, coke, electricity + salt solution) how important is it that I remove it?  As long as the rust isn't coming loose, can I just leave it in there?

I'm sure it will start coming loose eventually, then you'll start wondering why your carbs are always clogged. You could add an inline fuel filter to try and minimize the amount of crud that gets to the carbs...

[The Buddha]

That dent you may be able to get out with a long J shaped piece of rebar type rod. <--- Try this yourself ... I can, but if you do hey, I dont have to ... 
Typically I would cut a hole under that dent and knock/roll it out, then weld it back. <-- I can do this figure atleast $40 ... and when in there, I'll sand off the rust so the next step is less of a pain.
The rust needs to be acid treated, cleaned dried - bone dry, and be coated  with POR 15 or Kreem. <--- This I do, $60 and return shipping.
Cool.
Buddha.

[the mole]

OK Buddha, I presume you mean cut a hole in the underneath of the tank, fix dent, then weld hole again....how do you go about welding a fuel tank without blowing it up?  I'd send it to you to fix mine, but the freight from here would be a bit expensive!
Thanks!

[The Buddha]

I just did 1 tank ... I'll put pics up. I am not done de denting or de rusting it. I'll do that too and show you too. I just did a preliminary de dent. The next steps - my welder has the tools to undent somehtign else ... I have to get it back, I may also try heating the area ... just to see what it works like
Watch for the links.
And see I am yet to do the rolling and fine tuning, and after its de dented, I'll sans the inside with 220 grit and hand paint POR15 leaving 2 inch area around the hole.Then after it cures, I'll get it welded in, and put por 15 on that part with a long brush. Thin coat of POR15 ...
I am thinking if I start doing this for people, I can do a tank coat and de dent job for $100. Welding it after you get all the gasoline out ... which it will be if you're cutting it open, drying it and sanding it ... no big deal with it catching fire, and besides, it can catch fire, it will just burn the paint ... you just weld it with a tig welder.
Cool.
Buddha.

[starshooter10]

im looking forward to links =-D

my tank was all dinged up

and had a huge GOB of bondo =-/

[The Buddha]

http://picasaweb.google.com/srinath.the.man/TankDeDenting#

Something to remember - the edges of the cut will be sharp. You can sand the edge, the welder will need clean metal to weld anyway and the first thing is he'd sand that part. Make the hole large enough to cover and get at all the dents, else you have to be extending and opening up parts of it.
Then rods with slight bends and various tips etc can be used to drift in things and powdercoat can cover defects of up to 1/2 mm easy. But no more.
This tank is turning out to be a lot easier than the first one I did. I cut it twice cos I screwed up the first cut.
BTW I cut open and welded up a tank in 97 and after that I coated it and used it for several years. Its easy to weld and coat and seal a flat surface like where I am cutting. The corner or the edge or the welds are hard to seal up and harder to weld.
Cool.
Buddha.

[The Buddha]

And the way to look at these pics is ...
In the first pic look at the left edge and see how much its sunken.
Second pic look at the top and look at the depth of the divot.
Same way - 5th pic look at the top ...
And 6th pic look at the bottom edge.
That small ding has to be removed by a custom bent rod.
The next round of metal shaping work on this tank is more rolling. I have a 3 inch round plate with a handle ... you can imagine a pizza cutter with a 3 inch flat thick plate instead of the blade. Just put it in and roll it.
I also have thicker sharp edged rollers ... 1 inch wide like a segment of a wheel ... Like a pie with a nice handle in the middle. Put it in and your weigh on it and roll, either with your foot or hand ... sit the tank on a piece of carpet.
Perfection is hard to get, but you can definetly make it so hard to spot especially after you powdercoat it. To top it off, after that you can still sand with 1000 grit and spray clear.
Cool.
Buddha.

[starshooter10]

not too shabby

i'll have to give that a try

[TimTalkShow]

I might look into trying to push the dent out myself, and then grabbing some paint pens and repainting that rusted area.  Doesn't seem too hard.  As for the POR15 and the rust removal, I hate not having a garage where I can do this.  Living in the heart of san Francisco kinda sucks for mechanical issues. 

Once the weather gets bad, I may see if I can do it all myse,f but I will def keep you in mind Buddha, you know, in case I screw something up and need help bailing me out.   

[The Buddha]

I aint the federal reserve ...
I cant bail out POR15 botchup's ... that crap does not want to come loose at all ...
I would do kreem, prep is easier and its clean up is 1000 times easier ... I may use up the last batch I have and switch to kreem. Heck its easier to buy and cheaper as well. Thin kreem jobs will come off with acetone. Thick ones still are a bit hard. I like to lay down a lacy veil thin layer of it, Gosh, I am getting goose bumps just thinking about it ... must fight the urge ... must resist ...
Cool.
Buddha.