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Confused on how to set idle screws. (also, balance carbs)

Started by Danny500, February 20, 2009, 11:08:33 PM

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Danny500

Just picked up V&H pipe, planning on running stock airbox and element. However, I do want to upjet to a 127.5 to compensate for the new flow.

I already have 1 washer on the jets, but I may go up to 2.

Now, when everything is installed and ready to tune what order should I go in?

Should I balance the carbs first? Or should I get the mixture set properly?

When setting the mixture (following poor-man's re-jetting guide) do I do one carb at a time or do I do them both evenly?

This is what I was thinking of doing... tell me if I'm wrong.

1. Screw both screws in all the way, then back them out to 1/4 turn.
2. Start bike, warm it up, turn choke off, set idle at 1000 rpm.
3. Then move from side-to-side backing BOTH screws out evenly until the idle stops climbing.
4. Once stopped climbing, come out 1/4 turn more.
5. Blip throttle... test for lean/rich, adjust BOTH carbs evenly... when set... done.

Next.

Vacuum test.

Right? or NO?

Thanks!

ineedanap

#1
you should balance the carbs first.  If you don't you might find that you have to reset the mixture screws after you balance the carbs.  No reason to do it twice. 

I usually start at 3 turns out and turn the screws in together until rpms drop, then back off a 1/4 turn, but since both ways end up at the same place (1/4 turn out from best idle) but that's just my way.  I would imagine your way will work just as good as mine, maybe even better. 

If it runs worse as it warms up (next time you start it) they're turned out too far.  If at a very small throttle opening and cruising along it feels "fluffy" they're probably turned in too far.  You can try changing them 1/4 turn at a time to see what happins.  The throttle blip works just fine too.

Also if you find your best setting is more than 3 and 1/2 turns out, you need a bigger pilot jet.  If it's less than half a turn out than you need a smaller one. 

Hopefully someone will chime in if I'm wrong but it sounds like you have it under control. 
My 90 GS500E has spread itself across the nation.

Danny500

Okeydokey, sounds like you confirmed it for me.

My worry was that if I had synced the carbs, then set the mixture, the carbs would become out of sync. But even if it does, it's easy enough to hook the gauge back up and take another reading.

By "fluffy" you mean lagging? or soft feeling?

Like I said, since I'm installing the v&h, I plan on installing 127.5's as a main.. from all the charts and data I've read everyone keeps the 40 pilot with a couple washers... so hopefully I'll be good where i'm at.

Thanks!

ineedanap

#3
Yes, sync/balance first, then set fuel screws. 

Playing with the fuel screws won't cause the carbs to come out of sync.    

I was trying to figure out the right words but all i could come up with was fluffy.  Soft feeling sounds better.  The bike will be sluggish at that constant small throttle opening, and changing the throttle position some has no real effect, but it's smooth.   Then it's probably lean so you turn the screw out to richen it.

When something is rich alot of times it has a definate miss that is not smooth, the bike will stumble and lunge as it misses, and then take off...So you turn the screw in to lean it out. 

both of these are at really small throttle openings and cruising.  the mixture screws don't really have any effect above about 1/8 throttle.  above there is the pilot and needle's area. 

anyway sounds like you have it figured out. 
My 90 GS500E has spread itself across the nation.

lawman

Here's a stupid question...
Where did you find a screwdriver to adjust the mix screw while on the bike...?

ineedanap

I hacksawed a screwdriver to make a mini screwdriver.   Factory pro sells longer mixture screws that you can turn by hand too.
My 90 GS500E has spread itself across the nation.

fred

Quote from: ineedanap on February 21, 2009, 10:58:15 AM
I hacksawed a screwdriver to make a mini screwdriver.   Factory pro sells longer mixture screws that you can turn by hand too.

I'd never heard of those factory pro long mixture screws before. They look sweet! If only I already had a set... I'm about to mess with the carbs on my project bike now that I've got replacements for the cracked intake tubes it came with...

Danny500

Quote from: lawman on February 21, 2009, 07:33:38 AM
Here's a stupid question...
Where did you find a screwdriver to adjust the mix screw while on the bike...?

I use a Philips/Standard flip-able bit for a universal screwdriver... It's about 1 1/2" long and it's hex shape so it's easy to spin and easy to mark one side with a sharpie to see how many turns you're going.

.25 cents at most auto stores/hardware stores.


lawman

Quote from: Danny500 on February 21, 2009, 07:35:20 PM
Quote from: lawman on February 21, 2009, 07:33:38 AM
Here's a stupid question...
Where did you find a screwdriver to adjust the mix screw while on the bike...?

I use a Philips/Standard flip-able bit for a universal screwdriver... It's about 1 1/2" long and it's hex shape so it's easy to spin and easy to mark one side with a sharpie to see how many turns you're going.

.25 cents at most auto stores/hardware stores.



That is a FASCINATING suggestion...  Never even thought of it...

starshooter10

sync the carbs first...

and if your going to rejet...

dont jump to high

buddha told me to run a 40/150combo

WAY off

after i jumped around ALOT

i found the nice combo to be a 35 135

it's hesitates a tad at about 6 but then pulls strong from there till 11



Danny500

Is 6k where the powerband moved up to from stock? Or are you still feeling the powerband at about 5k or lower?

Since I'm only changing the exhaust for now I'm going 40/127.5... 2 washers... then I'll check the turns after the sync.

I'll let you know where I end up when all is said and done  :cheers:

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