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Allen Bolt rounded-out

Started by bassman, June 01, 2009, 12:45:59 AM

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bassman

When checking out my bike before its annual MOT (Ministry of Transport) Test on Saturday, I decided I wanted to remove the right footrest guard so I could check the rear brake light switch.  Three allen bolts to undo.  Two long ones that also hold the rear brake cylinder in place and a smaller one that just holds the guard.  To my absolute horror bolts 1 and 3 of the sequence rounded-out!!!!! >:(

The bolts are really dodgy on this bike (to be fair though, I've looked at forums on other sites for other bikes and the story appears to be depressingly similar).  I've bought a dremmel and I am planning on cutting a groove in the bolts to accept a flathead screwdriver (I'm waiting until I receive the replacements and the weekend before attempting it).  Anybody else experienced the same problem? (knowing the answer is bound to be yes!)...

Bassman

Affschnozel

'97 GS500EV: Sonic Springs 0.85 + 15W 139mm oil level (Euro clip ons+preload caps),125/40 jets Uni filter + stock can, Goodridge SS line , LED blinkers ,Michelin Pilot Activ tyres ,GSXR1000 Rectifier
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLPRzDenm1w
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2tvoa

dorris1988

Yup my are rounded off on the left hand one. Haven't looked at the right. They are a pain in the ass. I didn't even attempt to take mine off. Although soon I will have to because I need to replace the chain guide.
Current - 1991 Suzuki GS500E choked to 33bhp ( mini spear indicators upfront, engine scoop, 20mm rear suspension increase, iridium sparks, clip on bars and a few other little bits )

Previous - 1999 Honda FES 125 Pantheon

Project(s) - Honda CB250N Superdream (finished running and sold)

The Buddha

OK you rounded it with allen wrench and you hope to get enough torque on it with a screw driver ...
I'd drill it. In fact I'd left drill it with the largest drill bit that fits in the pre made divot and drill. The reason is that, you get through that top, and the cap will pop off. Then the bolt is a stub that should just come loose, or the master cyl can be removed and vice gripped.
Cool.
Buddha.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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intergalactic

+1  Buddha's suggestion

Quote from: The Buddha on June 01, 2009, 06:09:50 AM
OK you rounded it with allen wrench and you hope to get enough torque on it with a screw driver ...
I'd drill it. In fact I'd left drill it with the largest drill bit that fits in the pre made divot and drill. The reason is that, you get through that top, and the cap will pop off. Then the bolt is a stub that should just come loose, or the master cyl can be removed and vice gripped.
Cool.
Buddha.
1992 GS500E- 40/125 jets, '08 petcock
Aerostich roadcrafter/Sidi Vortice Air/Shoei X-11/Cortech Scarab gloves
SS front line (thanks ineedanap!)
metisse sliders (thanks grayghost) still working on the front motor mount
1992 GSXR600 shock .95kg/mm fronts springs, 20W oil
Yama JN6-F4560-00 filte

Bluesmudge

Well, try the flathead thing first, if that doesn't work you can always revert to drilling. You can always just remove the entire rearset whenever you need to get behind it. Not as convenient, but at least you wouldn't have to  mess with that bolt.

bassman

Sorted!!!! :D

Thanks for your replies guys!  I'm an obsessive and couldn't wait any longer and had to get out there with the dremmel and get those suckers out!! :cookoo:

Once I cut the (very rough) notches the flathead screwdriver started to chew the heads.  With the bike on the side stand I had to use my right leg to push the screwdriver as hard into the screwheads as I could manage.  I used a monkey wrench to turn the screwdriver and eventually, when I thought I would have to cut the heads off, bolts 1 & 3 finally budged! :laugh:

I've screwed them back on after coating all three with anti-seize copper grease.  I'll replace them as soon as the replacements arrive in the post.

I took some pictures but getting them in the posting seems a bit of a faff!

bassman

Affschnozel

In case of stubborn/stripped bolts I use the hammer and punch method which works great for me ,no need to drill/cut the head,

just whack it anti-clockwise and off-center a bit and most times the bastid comes out  :laugh:
'97 GS500EV: Sonic Springs 0.85 + 15W 139mm oil level (Euro clip ons+preload caps),125/40 jets Uni filter + stock can, Goodridge SS line , LED blinkers ,Michelin Pilot Activ tyres ,GSXR1000 Rectifier
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLPRzDenm1w
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2tvoa

lawman


BaltimoreGS

I second the PB Blaster, that is a great product!  In the future, try putting a little valve grinding compound on the allen wrench end to get better bite.

-Jessie

bassman

First attempt at posting pictures.  Sorry if Is= screw up!! :laugh:


bassman


bassman

Got it this time :embarrassed:

You can see the dremmel in the foreground.

Bassman


fred

A can of PB Blaster and an impact driver would have likely helped you avoid this problem, for future reference. I figure the impact driver will pay for itself after the first 6 screws/bolts you remove...

trumpetguy

#14
A small wire-feed welder will also work wonders. Tack a piece of steel on like a crossbar -- between the heat and added leverage, it usually comes right off.
TrumpetGuy
1998 Suzuki GS500E
1982 Suzuki GS1100E
--------------------------------------
"Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies, in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and not clothed." -- Dwight D. Eisenhower

bassman

I'm intrigued by P B Blaster but it does not appear to be available in the UK - we've only got WD40 or similar.

The only concern I have about drilling/smacking bolts, etc, with punches and impact screwdrivers is the possbility of fracturing a component or damaging surrounding parts.  I know it's a motorbike and not that fragile, but when I whack something, knowing my luck, the f%$king head will come off and fly through the nearest window or something, or I smack the tank or such like.

I do like the idea of welding (I loved using the itty bitty dremmel angle grinder - I felt like I was on 'American Chopper' with all the sparks flying ha ha!), but a welder is a bit pricey.

Oh well, until the next oil change then...

Bassman

jdw03n

Quote from: bassman on June 04, 2009, 11:05:22 AM
... but when I whack something, knowing my luck, the f%$king head will come off and fly through the nearest window or something, or I smack the tank or such like.

ROFL you have my luck :) You made my day with this one.
'96 BMW r1100r
'93 Gs500e - SOLD

purplepeopleeater

Hey Bassman, try http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com/ or http://www.acf-50.co.uk/. Both the same as WD40 and blaster. All available from CMC Chesterfield/Powersports Clay Cross.
Cheaper to cut like you did and buy replacement from breakers yard or http://www.tastynuts.com/site/frameset.htm :thumb:

Toogoofy317

2004 F, Fenderectomy, barends, gsxr-pegs, pro grip gel covers, 15th JT sprocket, stock decals gone,custom chain guard,GSXR integrated mirrors, flush mount signals, 150 rear tire,white rims, rebuilt top end, V&H Exhaust, Custom heel and chain guard (Adidasguy)

bassman

Ahh!, I see you did indeed have fun like me Toogoofy317 :laugh:!

I've bought some replacement OEM Suzuki replacement screws and will coate them in anti-seize copper grease when fitting them (the same as what you put on your spark plugs...you do remember to put that on your spark plugs, don't you?...Oh heavens, I can't look.... :wink:).

Bassman

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