Brake lever and pedal not stiff after bleeding brakes and changing pads

[myfirstluv]

I changed my front and rear brake pads to ebc HH and then changed the brake fluid twice.  The first time with older, previously opened brake fliud to new fluid, but I don't think the lever and pedals got that much stiffer.

The old fluid was darker than the new, but not as dark as the pics I've seen on the forum 

Also, when changing the fluid for the second time I noticed some was leaking from the rear brake bleed valve.  I tightened using a torque wrench, but what should I do if it happens again

One more thing; How freely should my wheels turn with the new brake pads  You can tell that the pads are touching the brake disks when the wheels are turning and some extra forac is required to make the wheels turn by hand.

Do I just have to wait for the pads to brake in (bed in) 

[bassmechanicsz]

I am no expert but i would say that if your brake pads are rubbing without the brakes being pressed at all then that is a problem.

[annguyen1981]

If you're turning the front wheel by hand while it's jacked up, it should be like butter.

[myfirstluv]

It isn't like butter... How do I fix it or what might be the problem 

ALSO, my front bleed valve is leaking just a touch even though I torqued it according to specification (6-9 Nm). 
Does that mean I just need to tighten it a little more    It wasn't doing it the other day; in fact it was the rear bleed valve that was leaking, but that seems to have been fixed (so far).

Thanks for the responses!

[dgyver]

EBC HH pads will sound like they are rubbing more. They are more agressive pads. After some break-in time and they seat to your rotors, some of the scuff sound will go away but not all.

[annguyen1981]

EBC HH pads will sound like they are rubbing more. They are more agressive pads. After some break-in time and they seat to your rotors, some of the scuff sound will go away but not all.

That makes sense...  but it sounds like the OP is having a hard time turning the wheel... that normal with EBC HH pads?

[dgyver]

EBC HH pads will sound like they are rubbing more. They are more agressive pads. After some break-in time and they seat to your rotors, some of the scuff sound will go away but not all.

That makes sense...  but it sounds like the OP is having a hard time turning the wheel... that normal with EBC HH pads?

There is more drag so it will feel harder to turn. I have no idea how much harder they feel it is. Some resistance does go away once they conture to the rotor. Also, a lot of times the semi-floating front rotor is not aligned after changing pads or even just removing the wheel and seems like the brakes are rubbing more. A few good stops takes care of that.

[myfirstluv]

Thats what I was reading here  http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=40052.0


As for the bleader valve leak.  Should I just tighten a little more or will that ruin it further ?
I think it's leaking at the threads not at the actual valve spout.  (I could be mistaken)

[bassmechanicsz]

if it is leaking at the actual threads could you use a little teflon tape on the threads like plumbers use?  never used it on a bike before but would imagine it would be fine and would fix the problem if it is actually leaking at the threads without having to over torque the bolt.

[JB848]

Whatever you do I would be Boo Coo Careful man. The front brake is not something to not be 100% sure of when riding! I have to remind myself at times to use the rear brake. I forget it is there. I can't imagine riding where I do in NJ with out a 100% working front brake. The Teflon is a good idea but albeit temporary. I would try to purchase a new valve and if that doesn't work try tapping out to the next size up.

If you can't do that the smart and safe thing to do is replace the whole caliper!

[myfirstluv]

The only thing is that I'm pretty sure this is the first time the brakes have been bled and the pads have been changed on this bike.  I'm the second owner but I bought it as a K7 with 2500 miles on it.  It now has 12000 miles on it.

Should this be happening to a relatively new bike?  The old brake fluid, as I mentioned earlier, is not nearly as dark as some the other pictures posted in other threads.

The only suspicious thing is that the front brake lever does NOT seem significantly more firm than what it was like, before bleeding the brakes.

Despite all this the brakes DO work.  I haven't noticed decreased stopping distance or shaking or any other major symptoms as a result of my current issues   

How do I add the teflon tape without taking out all the new brake fluid and re-bleeding?

[ivany]

New pads will feel like crap the first few times you brake with them. Take it up to 30 and do a quick brake to 0 a few times, it should get much better much faster.

Turning the wheel...if you can turn it with one hand, you're fine. If you want to be really sure take it for a 1-2 minute drive (w/o touching brakes) and come to a stop using the brake you are NOT about to check. See if the brake you didn't use is warm. If it's not warm at all it's fine.

Disk brakes DO rub a little bit even if they are released, esp if you just pressed them and haven't really moved the wheel since. But it's not a huge deal.

[daliumong]

to add teflon tape take out the bleeder valve, wrap like maybe 10 times around the threads, and put it back on.

i mean, its great theory and everything, but i'd imagine the caliper would get so hot it would burn up the teflon tape... that stuff is only rated for 200 or so degrees

[Dr.Sparkie]

Am I the only one who just tightens the bleed valve until it stops bleeding? I've never used a torque wrench on these screws.

I say before adding teflon, just pulle it out, check for contamination (grit will not allow it to seat), then tighten it with a 1/4" drive ratchet until it stops leaking. if you're going to use a 3/8" drive ratchet be careful with it, these screws will shear if you go to town on them.

[average]

I agree. I wouldn't use a torque wrench on the bleeder valve either, but if you have a manual and tighten to spec you shouldn't have a problem. I will go on the record and say that the HH pads for the rear were complete overkill. Get a feel for that rear before you lock it up one good time. 

[myfirstluv]

I actually ended up doing what Dr. Sparkie said and just tightened till there was no more leak.  But at the same I DON'T fell like I over tightened.  I've been trying to be very carefull when tightening any screws.

The guy at the dealer took a look and said that if there are no bubbles or fluid coming out when your pulling  in on the the actual brake lever or pedal then there is most probably no leak and whatever is just coming out is just residual, especially since it's coming out of the threads.

I think I've been a little paranoid, but I appreciate everyone's advice. It's all been very helpfull.

I agree with "average", the rear's feel slightly different.  They definitely have been more squeaky, making me more cautious when braking.

[myfirstluv]

Has anyone seen this "residual leak"?  Does anyone check there bleeder valves after riding a day, after changing the brake fluid?

Please tell me your experiences.

[ohgood]

Has anyone seen this "residual leak"?  Does anyone check there bleeder valves after riding a day, after changing the brake fluid?

Please tell me your experiences.

ya, up @ the master cylinder for the front, it will weep out the residual fluid for a day or so. couple of wipes over 2-3 days and all the residual should be gone. at the bleeder valves, that stuff should go away quick. like, one day. it gets hella hot, and with the wind too, it shouldn't be there for long at all.

don't forget, brake fluid on the tars or the rotors = nooooo stoppy !

be careful man, i think you're fine from what you said so far, just keep an eye on bleeders for  drips.

[mister]

Whatever you do I would be Boo Coo Careful man. The front brake is not something to not be 100% sure of when riding! I have to remind myself at times to use the rear brake. I forget it is there. I can't imagine riding where I do in NJ with out a 100% working front brake.

Obviously you ain't riding a GSXR 

[ineedanap]

YIKES!