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Front brakes STICKING Whats the problem?

Started by vorBH, October 04, 2009, 03:16:29 PM

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vorBH

So I decided to clean and change the brake pads on the front brakes. They haven't been touched in anyway since brand new bike, now at 19000km.

Prior to this I noticed the brakes were sticking to the rotor, so if the wheel was lifted off the ground and freely rotate, it would not freely rotate and would slow down quick enough because of the brakes touching.

So I took the caliper off, took out the old pads. Cleaned everything, the pistons, the areas around it etc, with a brake cleaner formula spray bottle.
Put BRAKE FLUID on the pistons as lubrication for them and slided them back in and also put brake fluid lube on the seals. Popped the new pads on, bled the system very well and thoroughly.

Now the caliper is still sticking to the rotor!  :2guns: Its at the point where if you push the brakes  and let go it should come back that 1mm, but it doesn't seem to be coming back that much.

Im riding the bike and feel some resistance, its not going to lock since it would have done so in the first 1km or so....but its heating the rotors and its definitely that the brake pads are too close on the rotors.....whats the problem? what should I do?   I have been taking the caliper on and off trying different things.....still the same

Although it is a bit better though...is it b/c new pads? But the old pads the calipers were still sticking the rotor. Do I need a new caliper?

Appreciate some help please guys!  :cool:

Bluehaze

I have the same issue.  I would like to see the answer. I thought that this would hapen to new pads while it wears to the surface of the rotor.
2008 GS500F Modification: Fenderectomy. Additional LED Brake Lights. Blue Underlighting Kit. Grills on the Fairing. K&N Drop in Filter. Laser Deeptone 2-1 Exhaust. DynoJet Kit. Rear Kellerman Turn Signal. 14T sprocket. Carbon Fiber Race pegs. SM2 handlebar. 06 R6 Rear Suspension.

psyber_0ptix


http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=44878.0

k6 GSXR f/e
k1-3 front wheel
Hayabusa rotors
WORKS Racing Rear Shock
K&N, Yosh, rejet
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Katana/SV650 Rear wheel

DoD#i

AFAIK, the pads are never going to come completely off the rotor. ie, they will touch all the time, just with no pressure, or with pressure on the brakes when braking. They don't actually retract away from the rotor.

Either you're simply noticing, because you've worked on the brakes recently, or you are getting a bit more noticeable heating as the new pads wear in. Did you use the new pads as lightly as possible for several days, as the manuals suggest?
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BaltimoreGS

+1 DoD#i

You are never going to see any clearance between the pads and rotor on any properly working disc brake set up.  While there should not be excessive drag there will always be some contact.  Since the front is a floating caliper design you do have to keep the caliper slides cleaned and lubed for the brakes to work properly.  Good luck! 

-Jessie

BaltimoreGS

And sorry to threadjack but I noticed the other day at work I'm getting an overabundance of the "squeak grease" you put on the back of the pads if anyone needs any.  Little packs come with some of the Toyota brake pads but I have a big aerosol can of it that I use.  I can never bring myself to throw those away, guess I'm just a pack rat   :D

-Jessie

vorBH


vorBH

Yea, they are NOT coming off of the rotor though as much as they should be when lever is released. I understand the mechanics of whats going on down there, and its definitly not working right. the caliper is tight on the rotor and it shouldnt be, the wheel should move more freely
I don't want a heating rotor (metal being eaten away, warpage..coud shatter??I dont know...lock-up??)

Quote from: DoD#i on October 04, 2009, 05:56:11 PM
AFAIK, the pads are never going to come completely off the rotor. ie, they will touch all the time, just with no pressure, or with pressure on the brakes when braking. They don't actually retract away from the rotor.

Either you're simply noticing, because you've worked on the brakes recently, or you are getting a bit more noticeable heating as the new pads wear in. Did you use the new pads as lightly as possible for several days, as the manuals suggest?

vorBH

Yes the pads do alwyas make contact, but its making slightly too much more contact with the rotor, it hard to slide the caliper off the rotor when trying to take of the rotor, shouldn;t be like that.

I guess b/c new pads, will wait it out a bit more and see how it adjusts.....but it is DEFINITLY not normal....i CLEARLY feel resistance on the bike while riding, i give gas and just does not want to go, feels being pulled back...
Im sure the seals are not broken etc..b/c otherwise would have locked by now pretty much.....I put my finger between any possible area between rotor and brake pad and pull brake lever and can feel some action, compresses and comes back.......its just not coming back enough though.......i dont know anymore, b/c of new pads???

Bluehaze

Quote from: vorBH on October 04, 2009, 03:16:29 PM


Prior to this I noticed the brakes were sticking to the rotor, so if the wheel was lifted off the ground and freely rotate, it would not freely rotate and would slow down quick enough because of the brakes touching.


So are you saying that when the front wheel is off the ground. .it will not turn at all? That is the only way you would "feel" resistance when riding.  If it turns and still slow down after a few turns.. then that should be ok.. if you cant budge the damn thing then i say u got issues.

However if you are able to turn the wheel then it slows down with your own hands. when the wheels are off the ground,  there is no way that can translate to keeping your bike back when riding.
2008 GS500F Modification: Fenderectomy. Additional LED Brake Lights. Blue Underlighting Kit. Grills on the Fairing. K&N Drop in Filter. Laser Deeptone 2-1 Exhaust. DynoJet Kit. Rear Kellerman Turn Signal. 14T sprocket. Carbon Fiber Race pegs. SM2 handlebar. 06 R6 Rear Suspension.

the mole

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on October 04, 2009, 07:40:35 PM
+1 DoD#i

You are never going to see any clearance between the pads and rotor on any properly working disc brake set up.  While there should not be excessive drag there will always be some contact.  Since the front is a floating caliper design you do have to keep the caliper slides cleaned and lubed for the brakes to work properly.  Good luck! 

-Jessie
Hijack: What should we use to lubricate the caliper slides?

BaltimoreGS

Quote from: the mole on October 05, 2009, 01:53:29 AM
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on October 04, 2009, 07:40:35 PM
+1 DoD#i

You are never going to see any clearance between the pads and rotor on any properly working disc brake set up.  While there should not be excessive drag there will always be some contact.  Since the front is a floating caliper design you do have to keep the caliper slides cleaned and lubed for the brakes to work properly.  Good luck! 

-Jessie
Hijack: What should we use to lubricate the caliper slides?

There is 100% silicone lube available that is the consistency of Vaseline, it is resistant to the high temperatures of braking systems.

-Jessie

vorBH

It will turn, but way too much rubbing, #1 you hear it #2 you can feel it, if i turn the wheel (with wheel of ground) its as if the brake lever it being pulled just a bit....like its "free" movement is very abrubt and not free actually...guess that goes against what I said, but it it abrupt movement because the caliper just doesnt want to let go of its light hug on the rotor

Te rear wheel touches, but it'll rotate for several more turns before coming to a quiet stop....the front will do maybe 2-3 turns and stop as if someone pulled the lever a bit (not fully)

The brake resevoir is 90%-95% full purposely

Am I supposed to ride it out a bit?? I dont see it getting better...the problem existed before installing the new brake pads....now its a little more tho, tad bit more
What to do?


Quote from: Bluehaze on October 04, 2009, 09:57:11 PM
Quote from: vorBH on October 04, 2009, 03:16:29 PM


Prior to this I noticed the brakes were sticking to the rotor, so if the wheel was lifted off the ground and freely rotate, it would not freely rotate and would slow down quick enough because of the brakes touching.


So are you saying that when the front wheel is off the ground. .it will not turn at all? That is the only way you would "feel" resistance when riding.  If it turns and still slow down after a few turns.. then that should be ok.. if you cant budge the damn thing then i say u got issues.

However if you are able to turn the wheel then it slows down with your own hands. when the wheels are off the ground,  there is no way that can translate to keeping your bike back when riding.

T1z3R

did you clean and grease the caliper slides?

BaltimoreGS

Keep in mind the rear brakes work on a completely different principle (fixed caliper, not floating) so it is not a good reference point.  Try riding it without braking then stop and see if your rotor is over heating, if the rotor is not overheating I would say you don't have excessive drag.

-Jessie

platinum_black

i have the exact same problem, i have just had the front caliper serviced professionaly because it was bithering me and it still happens, if i apply to much pressure to the break its as if it locks up and ne time i ease of the throttle its like i am slamming on the breaks.

vorBH

Yes, the caliper slides I cleaned and lubed with vaseline though....is that a problem? Vaseline may be too thick?

I went to the mechanic today, and my steering alignment was off! THat answered alot of questions for me regarding some issues...but anyways, he said the brakes are 'fine'...im like they are sticking

But anyways, check this guys, I checked the rotor after riding and its not even ridiculously hot....I'll see how it goes for couple more days....been riding with the new pads for about 100km now?
They still sticking, he gave them a tap with rubber hammer etc......but i'm thinking to re-lube the caliper slides with the real grease...he said lithium grease or something?

BaltimoreGS

I'm not sure about Vaseline, the grease has to be able to stand up to high temperatures.  Brakes work by turning forward motion into heat.  If the rotor is not heating up when the brakes are not applied you should be ok.

-Jessie

vorBH

Brake fluid is good lubricant right for the pistons?
The mechanic said its ok

I think part of the initial heating up was also due to brake fluid being burnt when rotating....because brake fluid fell on the new pads......so...but whatever, lets see what happens

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